I have a 04 jeep liberty my self and I put in my own stereo. First you take the screw out under the climate controls. Then it's just a matter of slowly but with pressure pulling the (in my case) chrome trim off around the climate control, stereo and empty space where your screw is located. Then the stereo mounted in presently will have a screw at each of the four corners; remove those while holding the stereo in place. Then just un hook your antenna and you're wiring harness from the back and repeat process for the new head unit. For the new wiring harness there may be some wires that need splicing and reconnecting to your new harness.
SOURCE: 2004 jeep liberty thermostat change?
ihave to change my thermostat in my 04 jeep liberty is it hard
SOURCE: how to replace a blower motor resistor in a 2004 jeep liberty
I'm not 100% sure where it is, or possibly built right in to the dash control/fan switch, but I'd be tempted to stop & see the parts guy at the dealership, or another dealership, and ask if they have one, or a picture of one. Once you see it, you'll know where to look. Just a guess but quite often built right into switch on dash.
SOURCE: 2004 jeep liberty drive train slips when accelorating from a stop
check the drive line play at the output of the transfer case to the rear universal joint.the gears are known for that.
SOURCE: 2004 jeep liberty electrical problems maybe
you have a short somewhere in the cigarette lighter. Most likely the socket itself, but possibly behind the dash somewhere. The radios in the Jeeps ****, and most likely just a bad radio. The door lock either has a bad actuator, or bad wiring in the door jamb. Remove the panel and see if you are getting power to the actuator. If so, you need it, if not check the wiring.
SOURCE: Install a 05 Jeep Liberty 3.7 in a 02 Liberty
BEFORE you put the engine in you must convert it with your old engine's crankshaft position ring and it's pick-up sensor. This ring can ONLY be changed with the engine upside down and out of the car. All rods must be disconnected, all mains are part of a cast saddle that must be removed, the front engine covers and all the timing chains must be removed, and finally the crankshaft must be lifted out and the ring must be hammer-unscrewed (impact screw driver, but I forget now if the taper-headed screws are allen, hex, star or phillips). DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME REMOVING THE HEADS. The ring is ENTIRELY different than the one the computer system on the 02 Liberty can recognize (this is what triggers your spark timing). Next is the magnetic pick up 'wheel' located on the front of the passenger's side of the over-head camshaft. This magnetic cup wheel triggers the '02 fuel injection system (don't un-magnetize it). Lastly, the '02 plastic intake manifold (w/ O rings for seals) for the '02 has an additional port, this is an easy swap-out. Mostly there are no gaskets- the finish is so fine they just use a factory sealer (comes in a tube). Buy it, it's cheap enough and it matches the factory's specs. Taking the engine back out/in is NOT fun, but with the engine on a stand, and with no time constraints it's managable (but still not fun). I made that exact engine swap myself and went through a lot of anguish learning all of this. By-the-by, these engines will NOT tolerate dirty oil. DO NOT EVER try and stretch out your oil changes, because they run really hot (due to the windage tray that prevents oil mist from coating the engine's internals) an ash will form and goop up the insides. The fine oil pick-up screen (drilled plate) will always clog up. If it's been a long time since the last change and your engine is still running fine, when you get around to putting in new high detergent oil it sorta un-sludges the goop and REALLY coats the pick-up. DEATH BY SUFFICATION. If you're ever at this point (no damage yet) I would suggest doing the oil change (before there's any knocking or signs the engine is failing) and I would do 2 more oil & filter changes @500 miles each; hopfully you'll dislodge the ash/sludge and get it out of the engine. Once damage has started it progresses very quickly- this engine is not very tolerant. Your oil will be gold color, and yet your enging will sieze because it can't 'get to it'. BEST OF LUCK- this is very do-able, but you might first investigate if you can swap out the engine management computor and wire harness and maybe avoid all of this above mentioned wrenching. No back ground info here, plus I didn't have access to the vehicle the 05 engine was snatched out of- sorry, and good luck again. One last bit of advice- I bought a zero miles engine from a National Highway Admin. crash/test vehicle. When I broke the engine down ALL the timing marks on all three chains were not aligned and had to ALL be set- I guess they might do that to prevent the parts from re-entering the 'system'? Or, some dumb s__t at the factory was new and/or pi__ed-off and this engine was just plopped in the donated/untitled crash vehicle rather than ripping it back apart and re-assembling it. The damn Jeep fired on the second crank and is running fine now (2 years later). Ciao4Now, Brian Fahey
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