I have a 1970 Camaro, and my amp meter(aftermarket;Equuis gauges)reads the amps are going to 17-18 when I accelerate and back down to 14 at idle. I believe it's over-charging and I can't figure out why. I can see some liquid coming from the battery caps so somethings wrong. :( I put in a new regulator, new Alt (external)
Do you mean volts??? What is the voltage at the battery when the engine is running and at 2500 rpm's?Do you mean volts??? What is the voltage at the battery when the engine is running and at 2500 rpm's?
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I just put probably the exact same gauge in. Accidentally hooked my volts up with the tach wire so when the revs built, so did the voltage. Thought the battery was gonna explode until I realized I just had to find another power source. So just make sure your tach is NOT connected with any other gauges
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Hi. You will need to test the back side of the amp gauge. Do both wires to the amp meter show battery voltage? If not you will need to find out why. Is the alternator still receiving battery voltage? From the battery there is a 12 gauge wire that goes to a shunt. From the shunt another 12 gauge wire goes to the alternator. You will need to test the four wires at the shunt and move forward. You either have a faulty amp gauge, wire or connection. Any questions please write back. Good Luck.
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Is the Exhaust Converter from 1994 & broken inside, rattles when you tap on it,& blocking the exhaust Replace it !! Gas filter not more than 5 years old & fuel pressure correct on a gauge read at the motor
Do you have under drive pulleys? If so, you can expect that to happen. It does not mean that something is wrong. You may have a high volume oil pump too. I have under drive pulleys on my Camaro and the oil pressure and voltage readings go up. I have never had a problem with that. I would worry when the oil pressure gauge does not move at all $$$$$$.
No such thing. If you have a new battery, and the alternator's testing fine then there's obviously something draining the battery. You'll need a multimeter for this. First off, once started, test the battery voltage at idle. Then increase RPM to about 2000. The idle reading could be as low as 10 Volt(since you just put a massive drain on the battery but should pick up with RPM to aboout 13 Volt at least. It could even go up to 14 Volt. If that is fine, shut down. Disconnect the neg pole on the battery. Switch your multimetre to Amps(You may have to move one of the meter wires to a current measuring connection on the meter.) Connect the leads between the neg of the battery and the cable that came off it. A reading any larger than 0.5 amps (500mA) could mean trouble. First thing I always check for is trunk and glove compartment lights. They may not be turning off with the lid closed. Next is aftermarket amplifiers. If incorrectly installed it does not shut down and drains the battery in no time at all.
When the new alternator was installed did you perform a charging test to ensure it works properly. If it's not the alternator may overcharge the battery causing corrosion to the posts and possible cracking of the battery case. If you don't have the tester at home most auto parts stores can connect theirs and it usually is free.
I had the same problem, thinking it was bad gas, or bad wires, or even a clogged fuel filter, had the engine checked out by a reputable gear head. A head bolt broke, then a intake lobe from cylinder #4 spun round thus causing your car to constantly backfire, also check to see if your head gaskets aren't blown (water-n-oil), all these were found once the engine was disassembled. Good luck trying to find a good used 3.4
Do you mean volts??? What is the voltage at the battery when the engine is running and at 2500 rpm's?
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