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Anonymous Posted on Apr 07, 2010

2001 honda civic ex,wont start, no injector pulse, good fuel pressure,good spark, timing belt ok ,crank sensor ok, all fuses good,all grounds test good..

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  • Master 10,319 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 07, 2010
Anonymous
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Joined: May 22, 2009
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Injector pulses are sent from the engines computer. Have that checked out

  • Glen Murray
    Glen Murray Apr 17, 2014

    we are trying another ECU soon i will let you know how it goes.

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Got a 2005 Nissan Altima it run for a bit can come up to a stop sign it will just die take 20 min before it will start again

well you need to identify what is missing. An engine needs ignition spark, fuel and injector pulse to start. (assuming mechanically the engine is ok. Like good compression and cam timing ok) A fuel pressure test is needed to see if it has good fuel pressure. Test for spark and injector pulse. If the fuel pressure is ok but it doesn't have spark or pulse it is usually and crank position sensor but on Nissans it could also be a faulty cam position sensor. Without the proper test equipment you will need to have a qualified mechanic diagnose it for you. I wouldn't start throwing parts at it.
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Check distributor rotation to ensure good timing belt. If good, check crank and cam position sensors. The computer fires the plugs and injectors based on many factors but most importantly the crankshaft and camshaft position.
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Cranks, but will not start. We have spark, timing belts okay, and fuel pressure.

Do you have a tach on the dash? If so crank it over and see if rpm climb, if not you may have a crank sensor out, if you have a test light you can check for injector pulse, sometimes a crank sensor will let you have spark but no injector pulse, there is also a fuse for injectors, you have 2 wires to the injector, connect the test light to the wires and turn it over and see if it blinks.
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My 1998 honda civic ex. It cranks but Engine does not start . I could not locate the fuel injectors fuse. I openned fuel line and fuel spurt out when it cranking. But I smell no gas at airfilter intake.

How many miles are on it? Have you changed timing belt? Was there any symptoms prior to non starting? Pull a spark plug see if you are getting spark. If not it is probably coilpack on distributor have it tested. Common problem I have had experienced with civics.
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1995 honda civic d15b7 cranks but wont start. new

Are you sure you have correct timing? its definetly a fule problem, if timing is good then turn your key to the on position and try to listin for the fule pump to prime. While the key is in on position go to fuel rail, there is a valve on fule rail called sharader valve. Get a small screw driver and press valve in to check if car has fule pressure. if pressure is present then it is incorrect timing or possible bad cam sensor.
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Cranks but wont start

make sure you have pressure to your fuel rail, if you do , then check your timing it could have jumped or be off, make sure you have spark to all four wires. and for the fuses turn your ignition key to on position and get a test light, ground the test light to a good ground and apply the light to both slots of each fuse, if it lights on both sides of the fuse then the fuse is good, if it only lights on one end of the fuse the fuse is probably bad so pull it and look to see if its fried, and if it doesnt light up on either side it is most likely good, thats about all i can think of, hope it helps

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Cranks but wont start

Engine Cranks But Will Not Start

For an engine to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine. Compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.
Basic Checks:

A. Test Fuses. Test both under hood power distribution center and the fuse panel under dash. This is done with a test light tool. The test light should illuminate on both sides of the fuse, if not the fuse has failed and needs to be replaced.
B. Testing Fuel Pressure Test for proper fuel pressure with a test gauge on the fuel rail, most throttle body injection cars (TBI) are between 13 psi and 17 psi. and most (DPI) direct port inject systems are between 40 psi and 55 psi. If no or little fuel pressure is observed and there is 12 volt power present the fuel pump, the fuel pump needs replacing.
C. Checking Timing Belt Test for compression by removing a spark plug and insert a compression gauge. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds the gauge should read between 125 psi and 165 psi, if no compression is observed remove front engine cover to inspect timing belt or chain. Crank engine to observe cam rotation, if the cam does not rotate the timing belt or chain has failed. (note: if the timing belt drives the water pump it is best to replace the water pump at this time)
D. Test for Injector Pulse Remove injector connector to insert injector test light (node) or volt meter. Observe light flash or gauge pulse while cranking. If light/voltmeter doesn't respond, an ignition distributor/crank angle sensor (CKS) or an ignition module is most likely your problem.
E. Test for Ignition Spark Remove spark plug wire, insert an extra spark plug into end of wire, rest spark plug next to a ground source then crank engine. You should observe a blue spark between the spark plug gap and ground source. If no spark is observed, an ignition coil, ignition rotor or spark plug wires might have failed. (always keep hands away from engine when cranking)
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Doesn't start

1. Test Fuses. Test both under hood power distribution center and the fuse panel under dash. This is done with a test light tool. The test light should illuminate on both sides of the fuse, if not the fuse has failed and needs to be replaced.
2.Testing Fuel Pressure Test for proper fuel pressure with a test gauge on the fuel rail, most throttle body injection cars (TBI) are between 13 psi and 17 psi. and most (DPI) direct port inject systems are between 40 psi and 55 psi. If no or little fuel pressure is observed and there is 12 volt power present the fuel pump, the fuel pump needs replacing.
3.Checking Timing Belt Test for compression by removing a spark plug and insert a compression gauge. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds the gauge should read between 125 psi and 165 psi, if no compression is observed remove front engine cover to inspect timing belt or chain. Crank engine to observe cam rotation, if the cam does not rotate the timing belt or chain has failed. (note: if the timing belt drives the water pump it is best to replace the water pump at this time)
4.Test for Injector Pulse Remove injector connector to insert injector test light (node) or volt meter. Observe light flash or gauge pulse while cranking. If light/voltmeter doesn't respond, an ignition distributor/crank angle sensor (CKS) or an ignition module is most likely your problem.
5.Test for Ignition Spark Remove spark plug wire, insert an extra spark plug into end of wire, rest spark plug next to a ground source then crank engine. You should observe a blue spark between the spark plug gap and ground source. If no spark is observed, an ignition coil, ignition rotor or spark plug wires might have failed. (always keep hands away from engine when cranking)
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