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Posted on Apr 05, 2010
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Intake Manifold Cleaning

About 2 weeks ago I had my intake manifold valve replaced. I was told that if my check engine light goes on again, my intake manifold will need to be cleaned. I was quoted $350 for parts/labor and more if there are gaskets that need replacing. Is this an accurate quote?

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  • Posted on Apr 05, 2010
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Joined: Apr 01, 2010
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I am sure that you could find an intake manifold way cheaper than that at a junkyard that would be good i'm guessing but i'm thinkin prob $75-$100 someone to put it one shouldn't too much

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What is the difficulty level when replacing the knocK sensor bank one in my 96 infinitI Q45 4.5 L V8

the service manual covers all that, buy it or rent it?
V8 Engine. 1996 Infinity Q45
scans said it bad, if not do not listen to dweebs saying it is bad blind,
not told why you want to go there at all.?
bank 1, KS-1
they are both mounted to the top of the bare engine block
they are Microphones, no loose bolts rattling up there
or loose cam chains.
the main intake manifold must be pulled. (takes skills)
facing engine bank 1 is right bank, cylinder 1 front there.
KS1 is on same bank.
left word below means drivers seat perspective
see below KS1 is on the right facing the engine
clear as day we see the intake manifold is gone.

q45-undefined-undefined-0.jpg FRONT Of car IS HERE X

it is big sandwich, remove the top things seen to get here.called gaining ACCESS to it.

KS- sensors can lie you (scannned)
chain on cam bad.
lifter collapsed
or worse, can happen, bent valves?
do you hear noise (bad) form the engine, even at idle parked.

NO MAN CAN GUESS YOUR SKILLS OR TOOLS
NOR WHY YOU LANDED HERE,
DWEEBS ON THE WWW INTERNET TOLD YOU?
but I did answer how. not tools ,just where it is and what must come off. the block.
do not break bolts (snap) removing them.
I use pen oil and heat and more tactics. ask
with 6mm bolts, there, it can be tedious. not wrecking those.

now the SM words told (pasted)

  1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Disconnect the air intake duct from the dual duct housing.
  4. Unplug the electrical connectors from the throttle body, the step motor AAC valve and the exhaust gas temperature sensor.
  5. Disconnect and label the hoses from the valve cover, the throttle body, the step motor AAC valve, the EGR control valve and the air cut valve.
  6. If the spark plug wires are in the way, disconnect them and move them aside. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle body.
  7. Remove the upper intake manifold collector-to-intake manifold bolts, and lift the assembly from the intake manifold. Discard the gasket.
  8. Remove the lower intake manifold collector-to-intake manifold bolts, in sequence, and lift the assembly from the intake manifold. Discard the gasket.
  9. If the fuel injector assembly is in the way, perform the following procedures:
    1. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the fuel injectors.
    2. Disconnect the fuel injector assembly from the fuel lines.

  1. Remove the fuel rail-to-cylinder head bolts.
  2. Remove the fuel rail assembly from the engine.
Remove the intake manifold-to-engine bolts, in sequence, lift the intake manifold from the engine and discard the gasket.

see that arrow red, it is inTHERE
im told Olive OyL can get there , directly./(grin)
q45d-undefined-undefined-1.jpg

q45d-kqcff13xlbal3fgeecvko1ot-d-2.jpg
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There are a number of things which can cause this problem. Some should activate a "check engine" light. There can be a part called an idle speed control solenoid which is in the intake manifold. A cleaning with WD40 and cleaning of the passages this part sticks in can help.

A EGR valve that is dirty can vent exhaust gases and stall the engine when the valve should be closed.

Vacuum leaks can show up at idle. This can be checked with a vacuum gauge.

Manifold runners. Depending on the engine you have, there are moving parts in the intake manifold. It became impossible (on some engines) to make an intake manifold which performed perfectly at all speeds. Manifolds were then made with 2 chambers and the parts called runners would move and adjust the airflow. When this part gets dirty it sticks and can can stalling.
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It's exhaust manifold. There are two manifolds, the intake manifold in the valley between the cylinder heads, and the exhaust manifolds, one on each side of a v figured engine.

And, yes, a leak in the exhaust or the intake will make it run lean. If the leak is close to the engine, it can do harm to the valves, too. There is a gasket between the exhaust manifold and the engine block. Likewise, there is an intake manifold gasket between the intake manifold and the block.
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I suggest you replace the EGR valve position sensor.
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Find out if this air valve is considered an Emissions part. I would say it is not, but it depends on the effect on the emissions. If it is a covered part, the Emissions devices are Federally mandated to last a longer period of time and miles than the rest of the car.

The air valve is usually a different component than a throttle valve. The air valve is a part inside the air intake which changes the flow of air underneath the intake manifold. The throttle valve is a big flap on the top of the intake manifold which moves directly with the gas footpedal. The air valve operates automatically to change the air passages beneath the intake. The throttle valve changes the air opening from the air filter and is manually controlled by the footpeadal.

You might ask them if the engine has manifold "runners" and if it does, then that could be the problem. Ford had several problems with these runners. Also, I can't say if your design is a sandwich manifold, but the sandwich intake manifold had a gasket in the middle to join top and bottom and over time the gasket dissolved making a leak.

I would get a second opinion for this repair.
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Hello, This code means your #4 cylinder is misfiring. There were 2 different coil systems used for the 2 engine styles that year. The top of the Intake manifold will need to be removed to provide access.

The 4 Valve engine used coil-paks and you need to mark the position of each sparkplug in relation to the post on the coil-pak. Check the terminals for corrosion, it may be fixed with a simple cleaning, or you may need a new coil-pak for this pair of cylinders. With most of the work already done, you may want to replace #4 sparkplug and the rest while the intake manifold is off.

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