I had all the sensors and spark plugs wires etc replaced. The Engine light is still on and it stalls everyday after a short drive to the first red light. It will stall at every red light until after about 10 minutes of driving. Then it runs fine.
Your ECU doesn't have a code for low fuel pressure. Which is a good reason to rule out a bad pump. You are right! Only a real mechanic can do a proper fuel pressure test to see if your pump is falling flat.
The fact that your truck runs ok when its warm does lend credence to the idle air control issue too. You might also have small vacuum leaks that stall the motor at idle that warming up makes less of an issue. A mechanic can test your engine for vacuum leaks to rule this out as well. Vacuum is another thing the ECU won't spit out codes about. Unless your MAP sensor goes out of range. If you have a leak and the car starts up cold....the map setting might be totally wrong for the engine due to an extreme lean condition.
Keep fighting the good fight! Once you figure this out you have a great story to tell people here on Fixya!
Keep me posted brotha!
If you haven't had the idle air control (air bypass valve) replaced or cleaned I would. The valves have a history of sticking cold. If you send more info like engine size and what fault codes are in the computer I could assist more.
Check the inertia/ fuel cutoff switch located on the interior firewall near the passengers right foot. The connectors have a history of melting. Ford offers a replacement connector if needed.
Call local parts stores (autozone, advance autoparts etc..), alot of these stores will test the computer for free and tell you what codes are present. And although I hate to admit it, sometimes they actually know the way to repair it ( no disrespect to the parts guys, they do a great job).
And, I am an older tech, but I remember years ago when carbon buildup on the intake valves in an engine would cause cold running problems. The carbon would actually absorb the fuel that was suppose to go into the cylinder and starve the engine until the carbon was finally saturated with fuel and the fuel intended for that cylinder would go into the cylinder to be burned.
Keep me posted too!
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I think it is either the Fuel pump or Fuel Filter and Fuel Relay.
I am not getting another Code Check. So far the Code Check cost me over $1500.00 and I still have the same problem. So much for the Conputer Whizards and code checks.
What I need is a real mechanic. Are there any real Mechanics left out there????
You need to clear the engine light code and drive it around and see what codes are left (if any). There are many sensors under the hood. You replaced ALL of them? The car runs on base setting while it is cold. These setting aren't working for the engine at idle cold but are working when it warms up and starts adjusting itself relative to sensor data. Interesting! I will wait to hear the results of your code check. Good luck and be careful.
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