Problem with brakes on nissan primera 00 2liter diesel

Fix the leak
then use a vacuum on the furthest bleeder to pull the brake fluid
keep the brake fluid filled
do that on all four
if that does not work, good chance you need to replace the seals on the master cylinder.
also check the linkage from brake pedal to master to insure that is ok

A master cylinder is supposed to be bench bled first to get the air out of the primary and secondary bores in the cylinder if you didn't do this there's air in the cylinder also you may have blown the seals inside it try to bench bleed it if you feel no pressure on the master cylinder plunger after bleeding it the seals are blown and you need another one ////\\\\if you do feel the pressure after bleeding and after installing it and bleeding the lines at all wheels and there is no pedal pressure the brake booster is the problem

may be bad master cylinder ~ you try to gravity bleed them first?

or you may have to bench bleed the master cylinder then re-install, gravity bleed to start

then finish off with the one-man bleeder or 2 person technique


i don't know how you did it, so i'm covering my bases by saying all that

First of all, I hope you got a new master cylinder with your disc brake kit. A new master cylinder should be bled before connecting the brake lines and then never allowed to pull in air during the rest of the bleeding process. A couple of fittings ans hoses should have come with the new master cylinder [see the kit listed for a picture]. If the master cylinder has an air bubble, you won't be able to properly bleed the rest of the system.
For the rest of the system you can make up a small catch bottle like the one pictured in the one man brake bleed kit; make sure the hose goes tot he bottom of the catch bottle. You have to cap the master cylinder reservoir before pumping the brakes or fluid will squirt out and all over; brake fluid is a like paint remover. Then start with the brake farthest from the master cylinder and bleed fluid out by having a buddy pump the brakes while you hold the catch bottle above the bleeder port so no air gets back in. [hint, put some pipe teflon tape on the outer threads only, not the inner end of the bleeder screws to seal the threads]. Check the master cylinder level often! If the brakes still are spongy after the first round of bleeding, have a buddy pump up the brake pedal with the bleeder screw closed and hold pressure on the pedal; you then open the bleed port until the pedal goes to the floor; have your buddy hold down the pedal until you close the port. Repeat on all brakes until the pedal is firm.

Yes it could be a bad master cylinder. But always remember when bleeding brakes. No matter what component on the brake system was changed. You ALWAYS bleed all four wheels and rule #2 ALWAYS bleed from furthest from the master cylinder first and work your way to the master cylinder. This ensures you remove all the air from the break system and not just move the air back and forth inside the lines. Try that. Hope this helps.

Remove the lines running to it, and then unbolt it from whatever surface it's mounted to.
You will need to BENCH BLEED your NEW MASTER CYLINDER.
This can be done by taking some rubber hose and putting it from the holes for the lines, back into he reservoir on the new master cylinder. Make sure the new master cylinder is full of fluid. Put the master cylinder in a bench vice, and press in the plunger repeatedly with a screwdriver until no more air bubbles come out.

Then put the new master cylinder back to the mounting surface, and reattach the lines. Bleed the entire brake system.

Check the master cylinder, pump up the brakes and crack the line at the master cylinder to the rear brakes, if no pressure and it was ran empty or is new part, bench bleed the master cylinder and recheck for pressure at the master cylinder, if you have pressure follow the brake line to the proportioning valve and crack that line before and after the fitting, good luck.

well, check the brake lines for leakage after adding brake fluid to the full mark. If the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, it's likely there is a leak somewhere after the master cylinder. If the pedal gets hard after adding fluid, and pumping it several times with the car off, then the master cylinder is still ok.

If air has gotten into the master cylinder, it may have to be bled out on a bench, or using a scanner if that's the way your vehicle is.

Bleeding the Brake System (ABS) Auto Bleed Procedure NOTE: Perform a manual bleeding procedure. If the brake pedal height and firmness results are not achieved, perform the auto bleed procedure below.
NOTE: Perform this procedure when replacing the brake pressure modulator valve or electro-hydraulic control unit.

1. Perform the manual brake bleeding procedure. Refer to Bleeding the Brake System (non-ABS).
2. Check the master cylinder fluid level often to prevent running the system dry.
3. Press the brake pedal firmly and run the Scan Tool Automated Bleed Procedure (for Gas engines) once, or the Function Test (for Diesel engines) four times. Make sure to release the brake pedal between each test.
4. Perform the manual bleed procedure again. This should remove the remaining air from the brake system.
5. Bleed the system as many times as needed to obtain the appropriate feel of the brake pedal.

alot of new cars cannot be bleed correctly without a scanner to open the valve in the ABS motor. You may have to have a shop perform this job

Did your mechanic use a DRB III or equivalent scanner before performing the bleeding procedure after installing the master cylinder? This is a requirement by the manufacturer (Chrysler) when bleeding the brake system.