2002 Jaguar X-Type Logo
Posted on Mar 20, 2010
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Brake problem i just change the rear brake calipers in a jaguar x-type 2002 and the brake pedal goes all the way to the bottom floor what seems to be the problem?

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steve morris

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  • Jaguar Master 1,675 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 20, 2010
steve morris
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Joined: Jan 30, 2010
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Hi this is air in the system if you pump them do they go hard as normal? what you will need to do is , starting from the furthest caliper away from the fluid bottle you have to bleed the air out, you can buy bleeding systems for a few bucks/pounds but you can also do it yourself, to do this, find a length of small bore clear hose/pipe, locate the bleed nipple on the caliper, find a wrench/spanner that will fit the bleed nipple, put that on first, then get your pipe/hose, and slide that over the end of the bleed nipple ( make sure the pipe/hose is a nice tight fit ) locate a small clear glass jar partly fill it with brake fluid, put the hose/pipe into the jar so the fluid covers the end ( we don't want air to go up the pipe/hose ) then get a friend to pump hard on the brake pedal till it goes hard, and when it does tell them to keep their foot hard on the pedal , you then undo the bleed nipple ( you should get some fluid come out fast) when the pedal reaches the floor ( this happens immediately if you have opened the nipple far enough, then when it has hit the floor do the bleed nipple up again before they raise the pedal keep doing this till you see no bubbles coming through the hose/pipe, repeat the operation on the next furthest away, and so on till all the air has been removed from the system, be sure to check the fluid in the reservoir regularly as this will cause air to get back into the system again if it runs to low....hope this has helped and good luck, please vote thanks

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2002 Dodge Dakota club, 3.9 auto. Brake pedal is soft, brakes but no resistance, pedal almost to floor. Changed booster and master cylinder, same issue

You have air trapped in the braking system somewhere. Have you bled the system thoroughly at all four wheels?
Have you changed the front calipers recently. Many years ago, I helped a friend mount new calipers on his vehicle, and we put the new calipers on the wrong side -- right one on the left side and vice versa. In this configuration, the bleeder screw wound up on the lower portion of the caliper instead of at the top, where it needs to be to allow trapped air to come out. Just a thought.
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Brake pedal goes to floor

for the pedal to go to the floor there is still air in the brake system. Start again starting from the longest line bleeding each in turn to the shortest line . make sure you have adjusted up the rear brakes before bleeding as every time you press on the pedal the shoes expand right out and when you take your foot off the pedal the shoes go all the way back in. adjust them manually and do not rely on the self adjuster as it only adjusts on wheel movement
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My brake pedal went to the floor, brought it in...They told me it was the Master Cylinder. They changed it and put in a brand new master cylinder but it still seems like the brake pedal goes further t

The extra brake travel can be;
1. air still in the brake lines and need bleeding
2. if there are brake drums on the rear they may be out of adjustment
3. if there are warped brake disc or caliper problems that will add to the brake travel
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Brake pedal is mushy all the way to the floor. Have already replaced front calipers, master cylinder, and bled all the brakes. Pedal still goes all the way to the floor when stopping the car.

If the car has drum brakes in the rear, Jack the rear up and have someone push the brake pedal hard and you try to turn the wheel. If you can turn it you need to adjust the rear shoes. They may be traveling out so far that the fluid level drops causing the pedal to go to the floor. You must adjust them with the drum on till you hear and feel the shoes rubbing against the drum. Hope this helps.
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What are the proper steps to bleeding your brakes on a 1990 vw golf deisel

For left hand drive vehicles: (If the car does not have ABS system you do not need any diagnostic equipment!)

IMPORTANT NOTE: You need using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car in order to bleed the ABS block. Follow instructions by scantool equipment for bleeding the ABS block.


1. This bleeding procedure requires two people. Remove the brake system reservoir cap, and fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached.
2. Lift the car, or use a channel for access under vehicle.
3. Put the gearbox in "N" - Neutral position, or in "P" - Parking position for automatic transmission.
4. Start the engine and push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor.
5. Begin with the rear right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
6. Repeat steps no.#4 and no.#5 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

7. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
8. Continue with the rear left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
9. Repeat steps no.#7 and no.#8 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

10. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
11. Continue with the front right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
12. Repeat steps no.#10 and no.#11 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

13. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
14. Continue with the front left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
15. Repeat steps no.#13 and no.#14 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.
16. Now the brakes are bleeded. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached. Put back the brake reservoir cap.
17. Test the car brake system. The brake pedal movement no more than 1/3 of total stroke until the floor, when brake pedal is applied. Maximum admissible is 1/2 of total stroke.
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Brake problem

If you have broken the brake lines loose from the brake system anywere, thenit will have to bleed the air out of the brake lines. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder and keep it full while bleeding the brakes. Also you could have a leaking caliper on the car. Hope this will help you.
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After changing the brake pads my brake pedal goes to the floor. I tried to pump the brake, but it did not seem to work. When I changed the pads I took the bolt out of the brake line to the caliper to...

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Just changed brakes but the pedal will not biuld pressure

antilock brake actuator has air trapped in it.
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