Timing OK? I have a 1997 audi 2.8L and replaced the timing belt via the "mark belt and cam method" with a sharpie. when I took the old belt off the left cam rotated forward. Furthermore, to align the marks on the belt I rotated the cam back counter clock wise to its original position and put the belt on. All the marks line up on both cams. Is this ok or should I have rotated the cam clock wise until the marks got back around?

If it was running good before the water pump was removed, timing does not have to be reset.(timing belt didn't jump if it still runs normal) Change the timing belt & DONT turn either sprocket. Timing marks should be on both sprockets, To make it easier Mark both sprockets (put tape securely on both sprockets) with sharpie on tape to keep their position marked in alignment to any stationary point on the engine next to the sprockets. Sharpie won't show very well on bare engine metal.

Line up the timing marks starting with the crankshaft pulley. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the marks line up. - See more at: http://www.happywrenching.com/a4/audi-a4-b5-28l-v6-timing-belt-replacement-removal-and-installation.html#sthash.FZPABPk1.dpuf

You can rotate the cam/crank into a positon that will not move as you remove the old belt, as long as the new belt places the cam/crank in same position as the old belt had them, it don't matter where the timing marks are. Leave your old belt on, rotate to a position that will not move or have tension on belt, (no matter the marks) and replace the belt. Make sure to recheck timing marks after new belt is installed by rotating the crank/cam back to timing marks, or just trust that the belt was replaced without the cam or crank rotated. Easy off, easy on, just make sure the cam/crank are still in time as the old belt had them located. NOTE: timing marks are there in case of a broke belt, or for a car that has jumped time. As long as cam and crank are held in same positon, and car was in time before the procedure, it don't matter where the timing marks are at during belt replacement.

Arrows point to timing marks in correct position.

If you index the engine properly (put cylinder 3 at top dead center, verified by alignment of timing marks on cam sprockets and crank pulley) you can remove the belt safely - the cams won't spin. But to get the housing off, you can slide the belt forward on the cam sprocket without removing it. Do it carefully - I've slid them halfway off and had a friend hold it while I tapped the channeling plate downward and off to replace the thermostat. Then slide it back in place once the new thermostat is in and the plate is resecured in place.

Don't crank that engine over is the first thing you do. Take out th eplugs and turn the engine by hand to it's marks. Take the belt off, check it for marks, yes, no? If no, how about the old one? Does it have marks on it? Match them up to the new one. and make marks, , turn the left cam over to it's mark, does it have two? Turn the other side over to it's mark. put the belt on, crank mark on the crank mark, cam marks on the cam marks, don't line up? It should, If the engine hits the valves, you will have to turn the cams at the same time by hand so they don't hit, don't force anything, if you get the belt on there without moving the engine, spin it around a couple times to make sure it stays on it's marks. I hope you didn't do any damage already by trying to start it. Hope this helps.

I assume you are talking about valve timing not igntion timing. If that is the case your water pump maybe run by the timing belt. If it is you would need to completely disassemble the timing cover and set the number one cylinder to TDC (top dead center) on the Compression stroke not the exhaust stroke. Once you do that line the timing marks up on cam gears with marks on the side of the head. Then install a new timing belt and tensioner. It is a good idea to always change the pump and belt together. I would suggest buying a manual for your specific vehicle for specific torque specs and exact locations of components and procedures.

You must find the cam lock bar and crank lock pin to do this job properly, otherwise you can bend some valves and that becomes expensive..the front crank damper has a mark to line up with a mark on the timing cover for #1 TDC, but the cam lock bar is what aligns the cams into position. The crank lock pin is helpful but not 100% necessary...

BEFORE U TAKE THE TIMING BELT OFF PUT THE CRANK SHAFT ON ITS MARK.IF THE CAM MARKS ARE NOT LINED UP THEN ROTATE THE CRANK 180.THEN U CAN MARK THE POSITION OF THE CAM & CRANK GEARS W/A CRAYON,WHITE OUT ECT.AS LONG AS THE GEARS DO NOT MOVE THEN U WILL BE OK.WITH THE OLD BELT ON U CAN SEE THE TIMING MARKS.

old timing belt stretched

you only hand turn twice

get number one cyl up on compression stroke both vales closed piston to top of stroke

put the cam with the tooth out to align marks

try again

unless you are 180 deg out should be right