What are the symptoms of a bad wheel hub? I had a front wheel fail to disengage when put back into 2 wheel drive from 4 wheel drive. It took 2-3 minutes before disengaging.

Does yours have AUTO hubs, there are some luxory models have auto hubs, these rely on difference in drive on the axles,(wheel spin) others have manual locking hubs, these actually need to be engaged manually, these require you to twist the centre of the hub to engage and disengage the front hubs, these sometimes require you to reverse to disengage properly, Rodeo had both depending on model. Happy New Year

have you checked the front hubs are engaged or engaging

Warn Hubs Installation
A truck or SUV with a four-wheel drive suspension uses locking hubs on the front wheels to engage or disengage the front axle shafts from the hubs. This way, you can drive the truck normally with just rear-wheel drive, or engage four-wheel drive mode when you want to drive off-road. These hubs can wear out, and one improvement is to install a set of Warn hubs. Installing a set of Warn hubs takes about an hour.
1.Park the truck and put on the parking brake. Lift the front of the truck with the jack and put the jack stands under the front axle. Take off the front wheels with the tire iron and put them to the side.
2.Disengage the locking hubs using your hands by turning the knob on the hubs. Remove the snap rings holding the hub locks in place with the snap-ring pliers. Pull the hub off the axle.
3.Install the lock ring wheel from the Warn hub kit in the axle with the factory snap ring and the snap-ring pliers.
4.Make sure the Warn locking cap dial is turned to the "Free' position. Install the locking cap onto the lock ring wheel and hub body with a hex-head key. Reinstall the front wheels with the tire iron and lower the vehicle off the jack stands with the jack.
Thank you for using FixYa. Hope this will help your problem and don't forget to rate me.thanks,
Reymond

Could either be a bad vacuum line or the TSB for the IWE solenoid.

If you have the truck running in park ( parking brake, chock wheels, necessary safety precautions ) check the vacuum on the front right IWE vacuum line. there are 2 vacuum hoses on there, 1 is the vac, the other is the vent, which routes up into the engine compartment, and is not hooked to anything.

Usually if it is the TSB, both sides will be making the grinding noise, as they are a common IWE solenoid

TSB : http://my.voyager.net/~sscully/file_tsb06_08_15.pdf

Operationally vacuum holds the IWE ( Integrated Wheel Ends ) out, and once vacuum is removed the spring engages the IWE.

Block diagram of the IWE vacuum system

Are the front hubs still locked in?

If you have manually locking front hubs, you probably have a bit of binding in the drive train due to the front wheels being locked to the drive system

After unlocking the hubs, back up about 20 feet, then back forward about 20 feet.....see then if the transfer case can then be disengaged. You MAY need to just yank on the transfer case shifter while the vehicle is moving (slowly of course).....

I had an older ford pickup which did the same thing.....disengaging the hubs and just yanking the shifter had disengaged the 4 wheel drive then I was able to put it back into 2wh high.

SOUNDS LIKE A BAD HUB TRY THIS TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM

Put the transmission in park, set the parking brake and raise the chassis so one of the front wheels is off the ground while the other is still on the ground. When the transfer case is in two-wheel drive, the hubs should be released allowing the wheels to turn freely when spun by hand. If the axle shaft turns when you spin the wheel, it means the hub has not disengaged.
To check engagement, rotate the axle shaft backwards. This should lock the hub. Try turning the wheel by hand again. The axle shaft should now turn with the wheel if the hub is locked. If the hub fails to lock, the hub will have to be disassembled and inspected or replaced.
To check release, hold the axle shaft steady and rotate the wheel backwards. You should hear a click as the locking mechanism slides back out and disengages the hub. Rotate the wheel forward again and it should turn freely.
Another way to check the hubs is to raise the vehicle on a frame contact lift so all four wheels are off the ground. Then start the engine and place the transfer case in four-wheel drive and the transmission in drive. If the front wheels don't turn, look at the front axle shafts. If both shafts are turning, but one wheel is not, the problem is a bad hub on the wheel that isn't turning. If the front driveshafts are not turning when the transfer case is in four-wheel drive, the problem is inside the differential (broken side gears) or the transfer case (broken chain, shift linkage, etc.). If the driveshaft between the transfer case and differential is turning, the problem is in the differential. If the driveshaft is not turning, the vehicle is going to need repairs to the transfer case.
Hope this helps.

try putting in 2 wheel, make sure hubs are locked if you have manual locking hubs, then drive backwards 4-5 feet and it should disengage then.

There are issues with the 4x4 system I.w.e ends ingesting moisture/water into vacuum actuation system causing no 4x4 or ratcheting outboard I.w.e ends. (Even if you don't go 4x4'n ) pull off vacuum hoses @ I.w.e ends and check for moisture/water/rust also the I.w.e is not part of the wheel bearing itself It is the part on the axle side (inboard) of the spindle. (EVEN DEALERS CAT LISTED WRONG)Many shops just replace the wheel bearing side this may fix the symptom but not the true cause of damaged I.w.e. ! Check with a reputable dealer they should have info on this condition and repair procedure.


The integrated wheel end (IWE) system contains the following:

Vacuum reservoir
IWE solenoid
IWEs (spring loaded vacuum hubs)
Vacuum hoses
Check valve
The IWE system uses vacuum hubs that engage the front wheel hubs to the front half shafts or disengage the front wheel hubs from the front half shafts.

The IWE solenoid receives engine vacuum from the vacuum reservoir.

When the 4-wheel drive system is in 2WD mode, the 4x4 module (PCM)supplies a ground path to the IWE solenoid to apply vacuum to the integrated wheel ends (disengaging the front hubs from the front half-shafts). In 4WD mode, the 4x4 module (PCM) does not supply the ground path to the IWE solenoid, vacuum is not applied to the integrated wheel ends and an internal spring keeps the front hubs engaged to the front half-shafts.

Good luck and check the vacuum line, start with the simple. Keep me posted, be glad to get your 4wd working again.

sounds like either a fuse or the do u have locking hubs that need to be engaged also when using 4 wheel drive there is actually only 2 wheels turning usually passenger front and driver back sometimes u also have to drive backwards to engage and also disengage 4 wheel drive finally it may be a transfer case problem check drive shafts and u joints make sure they are engaged

check the hubs for vacuum leaksthe lines should follw the abs sensor wires