Air and and one fan quit working all at once changed fuse but get no power from the fuse box to the fan can cross wire it to work can u help

There is a relay that powers the blower motor circuit . Left I/P fuse box , do you know where that is ? The relay is IGN 3 relay .
Fuse Block- I/P - Left
LF of the passenger compartment, behind the kick panel
IGN 3 RELAY
--
IGN3, HVAC CNTRL MODULE
IGN 3
10A
HVAC CNTRL MODULE, TC SW., HTD SEAT SW.
Does your car have Manual or automatic climate control ?

Check for power at the fan resistor wire to the resistor, if power. change the resistor block itself. it controls fan speeds. Most resistors are beside the blower fan, below glove box. You may have to remove a panel to get to the fan resistor. check all fuses first! Even under hood fuse box.

I would first check for a broken or shorted wire to body of car. Mouse damage or green corrosion. This is because you say fuses are blowing. Good luck Friend.

you can test ur fan with running" leads" or wires. a + and- from fuse box straight to fan wires, putting a on and off switch in between. its to check is fried or not. switch in line really not needed but it works

I would find the circuit breaker relay that supplies power to whichever power distribution box that contains the cooling fan relays. If the box has power, then you may want to consider the following: I feel that if you find out why the fans quit working, then you may also have solved the front turn signal issue.

Electric Fan(s) not working, Checking the fan(s), relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Verify that the fans work by unplugging them and run jumper wires to the fan(s) from the battery. If they run, your problem lies elsewhere. If either does not run, it's the motor.
Next thing to check is for power at the fan connectors. You have to be cautious doing this because the engine needs to be running and warm if not almost hot, and the A/C also needs to be on. (Both must be on and running for the duration of this checklist.) The A/C fan is on the passenger side and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. It is also the secondary engine cooling fan and should cycle on and off in relation to engine temperature, (If the A/C is OFF). Use a test light to probe the two wires on each fan. If you find power, the fan motor(s) is/are probably bad. If there is no power to fans, roll up your sleeves!

The temperature switch is usually located above the oil filter. If the dash gage is working, its probably OK. Next is the Fan Control Temperature Sensor, located IN or CLOSE to the thermostat housing. You will find out if it is working later is this checklist. I just wanted you to know where it is. Next is the relays and fuse's. Usually located in the engine compartment on the passenger side power distribution box. You will need to remove anything over the cover to open it. If the fuses are OK, tap on the relays or pull them out and push back in. If the fans are still not running, pull a relay and probe the socket terminals for power. Two of the terminals should have power, usually criss-cross from each other. One hot terminal is battery power, and the other is the "signal" voltage which triggers the relay to send 12V battery power to the fan. This signal voltage comes from the sensor at the thermostat. If only one terminal has power, then I would replace the sensor at the thermostat, if not both sensors.

Sounds like 2 different problems here. The ac gets warm when standing idle, is most likely the under hood fan not kicking on when ac is on. This may be a fuse issue or a relay. When ac is on, the fan should be on all the time. Relay maybe in an electrical box under the hood. Unplug the fan and test for power with a test light to see if the fan has power when ac is "on".

The inside fan not working on levels 1& 2 is likely the voltage ballast issue. this is an electrical block which controls voltage to change fan speeds. Usually found under the passenger side dash, right in the air flow comming from the fan and inside the air flow housing. Usually held in by 2 or 3 screws with a connector and 3-4 wires sticking out. this should be under $20 to buy and quite easy to change, if you can find it. Try behind glove box etc. Do not test the new one without it being in place, as it may burn out very quickly without the air flow to cool it.
Good luck

If your blower only worked on high before it quit, or didnt work on high before it quit,

You probably have a faulty blower motor resistor assembly. The part number is 04885635ab If you look on the bottom of the motor housing on the passenger side (about where the passenger toes would point) you will see a wire harness that is a long oval in shape and has 5 or 6 wires in it. You will need a 7 or 8mm 1/4 inch drive socket with a u-joint attachment. on the firewall side of the connector, there is a sliding lock that keeps the connector on the plug. you will have to slide the lock toward the drivers side and the squeeze a small blak tab to pull the connector off of the plug. Once the connector is off, use the socket to remove the 2 screws. It will drop right down once the screws are removed. Once it is removed, it looks like a 2 inch by 3 inch by 16th of an inch thick piece of metal with a plug on it. The resistor pack dissipates ALOT of heat so do not take it out until the truck has been off for 30 minutes or so. I priced the part at a dealership for $12.77

The age of your vehicle might suggest that wires in your interior fuse box have either come loose, corroded or shorted out.  The high current once like A/C and interior fan may have caused the wires at the back of the fuse box to become embrittled due to heat.  I once had a problem with my starter circuit where the wire became so hard it couldn't be bent.  I replaced the section of wire to the fuse box and all the starting issues went away.
The only explanation for the Airbag and ABS, is that they too go to the fuse box.  I suggest checking wires behind the fuse box for the affected circuits (if you can remove it enough to see and feel behind it).  Using the VOM you can check for power at your fuses and focus on the ones without power.  Then check those wires first (remember most circuits don't energize until the key is turn on).

I'm not sure where you are based, but with most new vehicles there is a 3 year or 60,000 mile warranty, so it should be covered under that if there is a fault. I recommend taking it to the dealer if the warranty is still current, otherwise if it is not you could check through the fuses to make sure it's not just a blown fuse, maybe check the wiring to the fan motor under the dash to make sure it's still plugged in and not damaged, and (with the key on and the heater fan switched on) check for power to the fan motor with a testlight. If there is power there then the fan motor is faulty, if not then there is fault with the control system, but that is probably about as far as you could go at home. Obviously if the fan is faulty you could replace it yourself if it's easily accessible. Any further faults would need a Honda dealer or good auto electrician to diagnose.

Hope this helps,
Mark.

Hi,yes in some of this vehicles there are fuses at the engine compartment ,,it may said fuses on top of the box if not ,look for a black box that opens by two little latches at the side, good luck.......