The electric lock switch on the drivers door isn't getting juice

Open the door manually with the key!

Many Ford Escapes have power door locks as standard equipment. This system consists of a lock switch, lock actuator and wiring harness. When you depress the lock switch, it sends an electronic signal through the harness to the actuator. The actuator moves an internal piston that either pulls the actuator hook down or pushes it up. The actuator hook connects to the lock rod, which either locks or unlocks the door, depending on which way you push the lock button. While this system won't work with a dead battery, the mechanical lock system remains unaffected by electrical power loss.

Insert the door lock key into the driver's door lock.
Turn the key counterclockwise one quarter turn.
Pull the door handle up until the Escape's door opens. Once the driver door is open, simply open the remaining doors by pulling the interior door handles until the doors open.

I beieve that your door locks are on circuit breakers not fuses. They would, however be located in the fuse block. I'm not sure how many there would be but likely only one, possibly 2. They will stick up out of the box as opposed to fitting flush like a fuse. I haven't been able to get access to a fuse diagram so i'm also not sure where. Pull them one at a time and use the door. When the locks stop working you will have found the right one.

Does this happen hen you open any door or mainly just the driver's door? There is a hugh bundle of wires that go into the driver's door from the door post. Yhis bundle contains all the wiring for the switchs on your door panel. It's most likely that some of them have rubbed bare over the years and this is causing your problem. It wouldn't be cheap hiring a mechanic to fix it, but if you were inclined to try it isn't hard. The harness covering should pull out of either the door or the door post, exposing the wire harness. Then it's just a matter of singling out each wire and checking it closely. Repair any damage with some electrical tape or ruber cement. Be sure to pull the harness gently out from the door post and the door to make sure there is no problems right at the posts themselves. Be sure to check each wire. Hope this helps.

If you have power at the fuse the next place to look is the main control switch at the drivers door. Then you can trace it out from there. When something goes out at all doors this is the place to check!

You should get a diagram online and a test light to check for juice at the switch panel.

The lock actuators are in each door by the way.

Good luck and be careful!

First check your fuses (Manual should have that location for the window fuses). Also do the other windows go down on the other side with the switch on the drivers door? And what else doesn't work ( Mirrors, Locks )?

Does the switch inside for that door work ? Does the power window work for that door ? Check fuse DDM - 15 amp I/P fuse panel . Do you know where the insturment panel fuse box is located ?
Fuse Block - I/P
Left of the I/P behind the side trim panel
# 4
DDM Fuse
15A
Driver Door Module (DDM)

Do you know anything about automotive electronic's , control module's ? Serial data communication networks ?
Circuit/System Description
The driver and passenger door lock and side window switches are integrated control module switch assemblies. The DDS and PDS door lock switches are normally open, 2 position rocker type switches, with detents for lock and unlock. The DDS and PDS are directly connected to the respective door lock actuator through the door lock actuator control circuits. When a door lock or unlock function is activated from the DDS or PDS, a serial data message lock or unlock command is sent to the other door switch and body control module.

you may just have a bad connection under the lock button under switch panel on your drivers door. check electrical plug in at door lock switch by removing that panel from driver door.it may be that you have to replace that door lock switch .thers only one fuse for door locks and if pass side works, it's not blown.

Problem was caused by a broken wire inside drivers door panel.

i know on some toyotas, you do not need to remove the door panel just the handle where the switch assembly is located...if the panel around the switches is plastic then pry GENTLY up on the plastic to dislodge it from the door handle and inspect connections there...if everything checks out fine, then check fuses...perhaps this was a problem for so long that the window motor finally blew a fuse. if so replace both fuse and motor...if fuses okay, then with a long screw driver locate any screws under the door handle, bottom of the door panel, mirror panel etc, and remove...then gently pry outwards on door panel until it is released. disconnect your harness at the window motor and hook in a test light and operate the switch..if light illuminates, replace motor..if not, then replace switch or switch panel..which ever/.

Check fuses and relays first. Second, try to get a testlight on the electrical wiring going directly into the switches for the windows. Is there electricity going in? If yes, then you may have a faulty switch. No? Then trace backwards and see why there is no juice. Also, check to see if the power window switches on the passenger doors work. It is unlikely that all the door regulaters and/or motors have failed simultaenously. This sounds like electrical. In other words, the juice may not be getting to where it should. Any small shop with ALLDATA would be happy to print you the electrical schematic on your car, if you feel up to this. If not, most shops may find the problem for you at no chrage and then just quote you on what it woul take to fix.

Most of the electrical components in the door are powered by a small bundle of wires that runs from the engine compartment into the drivers door. Quite often when there is a problem with a door-based electrical component, if the fuses are fine then the problem is in the wiring, and more then likely there is a fault located within the section of exposed wire between the door frame and the door. With a 19 year old car, these wires have been flexed hundreds of thousands of times, exposed to all kinds of weather and will eventually wear out. Start by looking at those wires and then tracing from there.