How to use a Matco Diagnostics Advance Timing Light

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That's the characteristic's of a throttle position switch cut's out at 55 mi per hr and stall's at acceleration..This is also a symptom of a throttle accelerator pump,not to mention water in the carb and or fuel system hope this help's.

1988-95 MODELS
See Figures 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11
This service procedure is for setting base ignition timing. Refer to underhood emission sticker for any additional service procedure steps and/or specifications.
These engines require a tachometer hook-up to the check connector-see illustrations. NEVER allow the tachometer terminal to become grounded; severe and expensive damage can occur to the coil and/or igniter.
Some tachometers are not compatible with this ignition system, confirm the compatibility of your unit before using.

1. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. Turn off all electrical accessories. Do not attempt to check timing specification or idle speed on a cold engine.

Fig. Fig. 6: Attach the tachometer to the battery and check connector terminals

1. Connect a tachometer (connect the tachometer (+) terminal to the terminal IG- of the check connector) and check the engine idle speed to be sure it is within the specification given in the Tune-Up Specifications chart or underhood emission sticker.
2. Remove the cap on the diagnostic check connector. Using a small jumper wire or Special Service Tool SST 09843-18020, short terminals TE1 (test terminal No. 1) and E1 (earth-ground) together.
3. If the timing marks are difficult to see, shut the engine OFF and use a dab of paint or chalk to make them more visible.
4. Connect a timing light according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Fig. Fig. 7: Early type of check connector and SST tool (jumper wire) for base timing adjustment

Fig. Fig. 8: Using the SST 09843-18020 or a jumper wire, connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the DLC1 (also used on OBD-II)

Fig. Fig. 9: Ignition timing marks 4A-GE engine-note the small notch on the pulley, this is the mark to align with the degree scale

Fig. Fig. 10: Timing marks 4A-FE and 7A-FE engines

1. Start the engine and use the timing light to observe the timing marks. With the jumper wire in the check connector the timing should be to specifications (refer to underhood emission sticker as necessary) with the engine fully warmed up (at correct idle speed) and the transmission in correct position. If the timing is not correct, loosen the bolts at the distributor just enough so that the distributor can be turned. Turn the distributor to advance or ****** the timing as required. Once the proper marks are seen to align with the timing light, timing is correct.

Fig. Fig. 11: If necessary, loosen the 2 mounting bolts and turn the distributor to adjust the timing

1. Without changing the position of the distributor, tighten the distributor bolts and double check the timing with the light (check idle speed as necessary).
2. Disconnect the jumper wire or Special Service Tool (SST) at the diagnostic check connector.

This jumper will be used repeatedly during diagnostics in later sections. Take the time to make a proper jumper with correct terminals or probes. It's a valuable special tool for very low cost.

1. Refer to the underhood emission sticker for timing specification and any additional service procedure steps. If necessary, repeat the timing adjustment procedure.
2. Shut the engine OFF and disconnect all test equipment. Roadtest the vehicle for proper operation.

Run diagnostics first on the ignition on without cranking, the timing belt snap would give you a good idea with a loud bang and engine is gone. If diagnostics comes with immobilizer error than happy days, a smart fellow can program it, but if it comes with crank position sensor than you need to take out the cover for the timing belt or you can actually do this before diagnostics and if the belt is still there, run the first step than.

well you will need a timing light first of all an anolog timing light runs about 39 bucks at autozone and a digital one about 99 bucks digital is by far superior.

that being said you turn your distributor counter clockwise to ****** timing aka slow down and clockwise to advanced the timing you can do it by ear and get i roughly timed but i would recomend that you use at least a anolog timing light to assure you dont run your pistons into your valves..

you also could not go wrong with picking up a haynes or chiltons repair manal at autozone to help put pictures to the job it may help you some i am not to sure of your level of automechanics but any how just follow instructions on timing light for the light and use the above method to ****** or advance your timing

if this helps could you give me 44 thumbs up thanks

Below copied from AutoZone.com:


See Figures 1, 2 and 3
The following procedure requires the use of a distributor wrench and a timing light. When using a timing light, be sure to consult the manufacturer's recommendations for installation and usage.
The vehicle emission control information label, which is found underhood, will often contain specifications or procedures for checking and adjusting timing that have been updated during production. The information contained on the label should always be used if it differs from these instructions.
On most HEI systems, the tachometer connects to the TACH terminal on the coil and to a ground. Some tachometers must connect to the TACH terminal and to the positive battery terminal. Also, note that some tachometers won't work at all with an HEI system. Consult the tachometer manufacturer if the instructions supplied with the unit do not give the proper connection.


WARNING Never ground the HEI TACH terminal; serious system damage will result, including ignition module burnout.

1. Set the parking brake and block the drive wheels, warm the engine to normal operating temperature.
2. Shut the engine OFF and connect the a timing light to the No. 1 spark plug (right front 2.8L engine, left front 4.3L engine or front plug on in-line engines):
   1. If using a non-inductive type, connect an adapter between the No. 1 spark plug and the spark plug wire; DO NOT puncture the spark plug wire, for this will cause a voltage leak.
   2. If using an inductive type, clamp it around the No. 1 spark plug wire.
   3. If using a magnetic type, place the probe in the connector located near the damper pulley; this type must be used with special electronic timing equipment.
   
   

Do not under any circumstances pierce the insulation of a spark plug wire in order to connect the timing light.

Fig. Fig. 1: A common timing mark scale

1. Clean off the timing marks, then label the pulley or damper notch and the timing scale with white chalk or paint for better visibility. If the timing notch on the damper or pulley is not visible from the top, the crankshaft should be bumped around using the starter or turned using a wrench on the front pulley bolt, in order to bring the mark to an accessible position.
2. On early model vehicles not equipped with EST, disconnect and plug the vacuum advance hose at the distributor to prevent any distributor vacuum advance. The vacuum line is the rubber hose connected to the metal cone-shaped canister on the side of the distributor. A short screw, pencil, or a golf tee can be used to plug the hose.

1. On later model vehicles equipped with EST, the electronic spark timing must be disabled or bypassed to prevent the control module from advancing timing while you are attempting to set it. This would obviously lead to an incorrect base timing setting. There are 2 possible methods of disabling the EST system, depending on the type of engine:
   
   On 2.5L engines, ground the "A'' and "B'' terminals on the ALDL connector under the dash before adjusting the timing. On all other engines using the EST distributor, disengage the timing connector wire. On a few of the earlier model vehicles, the 4-terminal EST connector must be disengaged from the distributor. Most later model vehicles are equipped with a single wire timing bypass connector. On these later model vehicles the bypass wire is usually a tan wire with a black stripe. The wire usually breaks out of the wiring harness conduit adjacent to the distributor, but on some vehicles it may break out of a taped section just below the heater case in the passenger compartment.
   
2. Start the engine, then check and adjust the idle speed, as necessary. The idle speed must be properly set to prevent any centrifugal advance of timing in the distributor.
3. Aim the timing light at the timing marks. Be careful not to touch the fan, which may appear to be standing still. Keep your clothes and hair along with the timing light's wires clear of the fan, belts and pulleys. If the pulley or damper notch isn't aligned with the proper timing mark, the timing will have to be adjusted.

TDC or Top Dead Center corresponds to 0° mark on the scale. Either B, BTDC, or Before Top Dead Center, may be shown as BEFORE on the scale, while A, ATDC or After Top Dead Center, may be shown as AFTER.

1. Loosen the distributor base clamp locknut. You can buy special wrenches which make this task a lot easier on certain models. Turn the distributor slowly to adjust the timing, holding it by the body and not the cap. Turn the distributor in the direction of rotor rotation (found in the firing order illustrations earlier in this Section) to ******, and against the direction to advance.
2. Once the timing is properly set, hold the distributor to keep it from the turning and tighten the locknut. Check the timing again after finishing with the nut in case the distributor moved as you tightened it.
3. If applicable, remove the plug and connect the distributor vacuum hose.
4. If necessary check and/or adjust the idle speed.
5. Shut off the engine and reconnect the EST wire (if equipped), then disconnect the timing light and tachometer.

For 1992 Cadillac DeVille 4.9 liter V-8 VIN "B" check this ...



Hope helps (remember rated this).

the traditional way of setting your timing would be better, get a loan of a timing light, the sticker under your hood should tell you the spec. usually 10-12 degrees btdc at idle with the timing advance disconnected. the timing advance is a tan wire with a black stripe usually found behind a plastic relay cover on the upper passenger side of the firewall near the distributor. there will be 3 plastic nuts holding the cover. you can mark the harmonic balancer tdc with liquid paper so it is easier 2 see with the light.

to obtain best results you have to use a timing light, but for emergency use this method: locate the data link connector and jump te1 and e1 , start engine, loose distribuitor bolts and turn distribuitor to left for ****** or right to advance, if ****** so much ,then have loose power, if advance so much then stalls and overheating engine

the only way to advance or ****** the timing is by computer diagnostics