Headlights causing battery drain while driving?

Sometimes, a headlight may start flickering due to physical damage to headlight components. The inside of the connector may start to melt, causing a poor connection. the bulbs or lamps of your headlights are old or damaged, it can cause the headlights to flicker. Fortunately, this can be a relatively quick fix.

When the alternator starts to give out, your car’s electrical output is affected. This could result in flickering, dimming, or inoperative headlights, as the headlights depend on power from the vehicle's battery. When the alternator is unable to charge the battery, the vehicle's electrical system will quickly drain the battery. One of the most common causes of headlight flickering is a dying battery. Your headlights rely on power from the battery to function properly. If the battery is failing, flickering, or dimming headlights may be the result. In this situation.

Check to see if alternator is charging. Battery light is an indicator that your alternator is not charging. Start engine use multimeter at battery 20 v dc or if autorange meter just dc. engine at idle the battery should read 14 - 14.5 volts. if not replace alternator.

best to let a garage adjust head lights because you need equipment to adjust headlights, because you could blind other drivers on coming traffic on the opposite lane causing accident. best let garage adjust headlights wont charge you much.

Battery dead in the morning Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice

1: Faulty Battery: inspect and fill it with distilled water, if needed: battery may be shorted out

2: Alternator: the voltage regulator inside alternator will drain battery when it quits working: break unit open, and replace the regulator: or replace the entire unit with a rebuilt alternator.

3: Loose alternator belt, which slips and does not allow for enough revolutions to fully charge the battery - especially at night-time, when you are running your headlights and such.

Now, to do a test, which will tell you if the alternator has failed, in 10 minutes:

1) Simply loosen, but Do Not Remove, the battery post clamps / cables, from battery.

2) Start Engine.

3) With engine running, REMOVE both cables from battery posts (engine should continue to run) (if it does not / dies out upon removal of cables, then test no further): ensure to secure the positive post cable - wrap it with a rag, or set it on cardboard or rubber, so it does not ground: then reach inside, and turn ON your headlights: upon doing so, and highlights are ignited, if the engine dies out - if the engine quits running the instant you turn your lights on, with the battery cable disconnected off - that means that the alternator is Not Charging; that it is not producing enough current to run itself / maintain itself running / maintain the engine running; so it does not produce enough electricity to keep your battery fully charged - and, is in fact, draining your battery of any available current which was stored in it.

So, more likely then not, it's the electronic regulator / diode stored inside of the large alternator unit: but, because, your car is a 1990, the brushes on your alternator are shot anyway; so you are better off just replacing the whole unit and belt: and battery if need be.

I hope this helps somewhat: where, with ENGINE RUNNING at normal / higher idle speed, and BATTERY DISCONNECTED, and ACCESSORIES RUNNING, especially headlights and heater - the Engine Must Remain ON / Running - on solely alternator power.

In that: the battery is only required to start the car; stored energy / current for the purpose of starting the car, as supplied by the alternator - and adjusted by the regulator: a faulty regulator will fry your battery, by over-charging / allowing too much electricity to flow.

Good Luck,

Ray

I would have the think its the alternator. If a jump starts the car, maybe the alternator isnt charging the battery properly. If you can take it off, Auto Zone, and places like that will test for free. Also, start your car and put a volt meter on you battery. You should be makin 14ish volts (14.4). If its making less (like 12-13) id def say its the alternator. (make sure everything is off in your car when you take the volt reading. Heater,lights,stereo,headlights.... Everything)

well, it will with the headlights on..... do you mean it loses a charge if parked, or driving it, the battery goes dead? if parked over night and its dead, there is a draw somewhere, make sure theres no dome light or glove box light on, cell phone charger, ect. A shop will need to verify the battery and altenator are good before doing a "parasitic draw test".... the max it should draw is 250ma.

The alternator is dying...
It is not charging your battery. Don't use your headlights (big power drain) until you have the electrical checked.
AutoZone will analyze (free) w/o removing alternator (IN-CAR test)

Hope this helps, soon!

Sounds like you regulator points are staying closed, thus causing the no-charge condition as well as the severe drain on your battery. Check the fusable links, the ES1 and ES2 motors were famous for this in 82-85, but if they are fine, replace your alternator.

Kevin

sounds like you have a shorted wire somewhere.