1992 Honda Accord Logo
Anonymous Posted on Feb 14, 2010

The Drive light flashes and the car loses power and sometimes won't start.

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Jeremy

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  • Honda Expert 268 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 14, 2010
Jeremy
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It is either your Vehicle Speed Sensor (easy to change) or your Automatic Transmission Computer (capacitors burn out on these boards, there is a fix for this too, the picture is at the bottom of this page). You need to diagnose by removing the lower right plastic kick panel on the passenger side. There you will find a blue plug. With the car OFF stick a paper clip, wire or stuff the plug with foil to make electrical connection so that the two terminals are touching. Then, turn the ignition to ON (not enough to start it though, just power it up). When you do this, count the blinks in the "D Light" or count your blinking Check Engine Light. Both are different but can refer to different things wrong with your car. A long blink is the first number and the short blinks that follow are the second number.
So imagine this as being 14 : ___ _ _ _ _

Below is a decoding chart:

The first section will be the check engine light codes, the next one is the Transmission Control Unit Codes read from the D Light;

1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected
86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem
90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area
91 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor low input
92 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow

TCU Codes:

CODE LIST:

1-Lock-up solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
2-Lock-up solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
3-Throttle Position Sensor circuit open or shorted.
4-Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer.
5-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit shorted.
6-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit open.
7-Shift Solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
8-Shift Solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
9-Counter shaft or transmission speed pulse generator open or shorted.
10-Coolant Temperature Sensor open or shorted.
11-Engine RPM (Ignition coil signal) open or shorted.
12-(No code 12 used)
13-Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted.
14-Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted.
15-Kick down switch circuit shorted.

The Drive light flashes and the car loses power - bf68ebb.jpg

Testimonial: "Thanks this was verry helpfull it came up the transmission speed pulse generator code."

4 Related Answers

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 06, 2008

SOURCE: randomly loses power and sometime dies

1st thing to do is have the system tested for the code that caused the check engine light to come, you may also have a fuel pump starting to fail or many other things, the check engine light may be the key. How many wiles on the car?

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Anonymous

  • 93 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 27, 2008

SOURCE: losing power and dies

Sounds as if it may be the fuel pump has unhitched inside the fuel tank. I will explain....The fuel pump is contained in a housing and when all together slides into receiver built into the inside bottom of the fuel tank. 2 ways it can come loose, previous repairs to the pump causing it not to be installed correctly or vehicle being in an accident and the impact causing the pump assembly to slide out of the "holder". When not in correctly, the pump will be just kind of sitting in the fuel with the fuel pump pickup pointing wherever instead of in the correct position facing towards the bottom. This is why (in my opinion) you are experiencing the problem with less than a 1/4 tank. I would recommend checking this first as its the most likely cause. Hope this helps and please rate this.

Anonymous

  • 161 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 29, 2009

SOURCE: losing power,and sometimes it bucks when i am

fuel pump fuel filter

Anonymous

  • 35 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 19, 2010

SOURCE: 2004 Mercury Sable Station Wagon has intermittent

loose conections on the ignition switch located on the lower side of steering column

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The Drive light flashes and the car loses power and sometimes won't start

D light flashing means that there is something wrong with the automatic transmission, have the vehicle scanned to understand the origin of the failure. Car losing power is consistent with a transmission that fails to change to lower gears, but has nothing to do with failure to start, that i can think of. Remember that 1998/2002 Accord auto transmissions are notoriously weak, and rarely reach 80000 miles.
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