2003 chevy malibu. brakes go to the floor.

Since the fluid ran out, you'll have to manually bench bleed the master cylinder. Then try bleeding each wheel. If that doesn't work, you'll have to take it to a shop for a scan tool ABS auto bleed procedure.

if you are having this problem you will need a brake bleeding kit. this helps force the brake fluid round. the kit comes with all the fittings and you connect to a tyre valve, this primes the system so no need to pump the brake pedal, the kits are cheap and easy to use.

fill master cylinder, start at right rear. the way I do it is make sure cap is back on master cylinder. pump the brakes a few times then hold them. have another person open the bleeder valve at the tires until brakes go to floor. hold them down until bleeder is retightened but be sure master cylinder is not out of fluid. then go to left rear and do the same procedure, then right front, then left front. check fluid and if air is all out there should be brakes. good-day ! THIS IS HOW I HAVE ALWAYS DONE IT ! heres a little trick of sorts. you can change a master cylinder, and if you bench bleed it first. and no fluid is lost from the master cylinder lines you do not need to bleed the whole system. but make sure cylinder is full of fluid before putting on vehicle and all air is out of master cylinder.

you have to bleed all 4 brakes even if you only replaced the 2 , start with the brake farthest from the master cylinder, and work your way up to the closest one, which in your case would be passenger rear, drivers rear, passenger front, drivers front, make sure as your doing this, that the master cylinder never runs out of fluid, or you have to start all over

For left hand drive vehicles: (If the car does not have ABS system you do not need any diagnostic equipment!)

IMPORTANT NOTE: You need using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car in order to bleed the ABS block. Follow instructions by scantool equipment for bleeding the ABS block.

1. This bleeding procedure requires two people. Remove the brake system reservoir cap, and fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached.
2. Lift the car, or use a channel for access under vehicle.
3. Put the gearbox in "N" - Neutral position, or in "P" - Parking position for automatic transmission.
4. Start the engine and push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor.
5. Begin with the rear right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
6. Repeat steps no.#4 and no.#5 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

7. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
8. Continue with the rear left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
9. Repeat steps no.#7 and no.#8 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

10. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
11. Continue with the front right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
12. Repeat steps no.#10 and no.#11 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

13. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
14. Continue with the front left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
15. Repeat steps no.#13 and no.#14 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.
16. Now the brakes are bleeded. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached. Put back the brake reservoir cap.
17. Test the car brake system. The brake pedal movement no more than 1/3 of total stroke until the floor, when brake pedal is applied. Maximum admissible is 1/2 of total stroke.

Assumeing you have no big leaks in the new brake lines witch you would see because there would brake fluid all over the ground I would say you didn;t bench bleed the new master cylinder There is air in this part when you buy it and you need to get it out before it will work Heres how you do it first you need a kit it consests of plugs that you screw into the holes that the brake lines go into but they have fittings for hoses to plug on to them you put the master cylinder into a vice screw the plugs into the holes put the hoses on the fittings and put the other end of the little hoses into the cylinder resivior fill the resiviors with brake fluid then take some kind of a tool i like to use a 6 inch 3/8 ths socket extentoin because not sharp but you could use a screw driver And push the piotion in from the back of the unit repeataly until you see now more air bubbles coming out of the two little hoses that are in the resiviors like ten or so pushes Then reinstall hook up the lines and bleed at wheel cylinders with wheel cylinder bleeding always start at the fertist wheel and work your way back to the closetes wheel Its not as hard as it may sound good luck

First fill the brake resivior then have someone pump pedal three times and hold pedal down, while you start at the right rear wheel open the bleeder screw and let fluid out and then close make sure who ever pumps pedal keeps preasure on it as you open bleeder because pedal will drop they must push and follow pedal, after you clsoe bleeder you then have them pump pedal again three times you will do this four to five times on each wheel make sure to check fluid level after each wheel is bleed, after the left rear you move to left rear then right front then last is left front, hope this helps.

you will need a friend to help you for this
Buy some new brake fluid, about 500ml should be enough
you can buy some clear plastic tube with about a 3mm hole through it, 300 to 400mm long or 1ft to 1ft 4inches, put one end of the tube into a small jar or something to catch the fluid when it comes out of the bleeder valve
find the bleeder on the disc caliper and also on the backing plate of the rear wheels unless it has rear disc brakes as well, slip the other end of the plastic tube over the bleeder screw
top up the brake fluid in the resevoir
get you friend or whoever to pump the brake pedal
while you put the spanner on the bleeder screw
tell your friend to push down on the pedal
loosen the bleeder screw about half a turn until the brake fluid starts to come through the plastic tubing
your friend has to keep the pressure on the brake pedal as it will go to the floor when you open the bleeder
once it has been pushed to the floor tell your friend to hold it down while you close the bleeder screw
once you have closed the bleeder screw he or she can pump the pedal up again until it goes hard
repeat this process until there is a good flow of fluid coming through with no air
check the brake fluid resevoir several times during this process to make sure that is not empty because if it is empty you will have to start the process all over again
repeat this process for all 4 wheels
hope this has helped

Hello, my name is Ben. If the fluid reservoir was empty there is most likely air in the system now. At a minimum you will need to bleed the brakes. Also, you need to look carefully behind each wheel and check for leaks.

You have a leak which has put alot of air in the system, was the bleeding done by a shop? Check all 4 wheels for signs of fluid leakage, most likely the back wheels. If no leakage at the wheels suspect the master cylinder leaking from the back side, if so you will see evidence of fluid leaking from under the master cylinder.