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Anonymous Posted on Jan 22, 2010

2000 Ford Focus LX steering knuckle/ball joint

I replaced two bad ball joints and torque checked all steering and suspension equipment on the front end. Took the car in for new tires and alignment. Tire shop told me the left front ball joint was bad. I took the car home and replaced the ball joint again, and noticed that the ball joint was moving around inside the steering knuckle/spindle, not at the joint itself. I've looked everywhere for a new steering knuckle (junkyards, autozone, orielly's, and online) and I can't even find a part number for the damn thing. What are the chances that I can beat the spindle into submission to hold the ball joint tighter? There's a split at the location of ball joint/pinch bolt insertion that I think I could tighten up with a BFH, since I'm going to have to remove the spindle for replacement anyway.

  • 2 more comments 
  • Anonymous Jan 22, 2010

    Brass what? Is that an acronym? .005 thick. I think I'll try that, but won't brass wear out extremely quickly and end up loose again?

  • Anonymous Jan 22, 2010

    I'm not sure what you are talking about with the brass ??? stock. .005 is that mm or inches? Won't brass wear out extremely quickly and become loose again? Also, the pinch bolt is new and already fits very tight into the spindle, so I don't know if I can get it in with it wrapped with anything. The problem area is where the ball joint goes into the bottom of the spindle. That socket is worn, not the location of the pinch bolt. Thanks for the suggestions, please let me know about the brass.

  • Anonymous Jan 22, 2010

    Sorry, there was a typing error. I wanted to make sure you meant shim and not shlw, which you had typed. I'll give that a shot, thanks!

  • Anonymous Jan 22, 2010

    Where on earth can i buy brass shim stock? I've called every auto parts store, lowes, home depot, ace hardware, machine shops, and most of them don't even know what it is. I found it online, but I need it before next week.

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  • Posted on Jan 22, 2010
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Theres 2 ways too fix that!! one is get some brass shiw stock it comes in a roll get about .005 thick! wrap several layers around the knuckle pin where is goes into the socket and then tigthen it up that will remove the play also you can heat the socket with a torch and then take a hammer and shrink the hole opening but if you call beards salvage in tulsa okla they can and will sell/ship you one

Testimonial: "Good idea about wrapping the pinch bolt. thanks for the confidence boost on using a BFH to beat it tight, I thought it would work."

  • 3 more comments 
  • Anonymous Jan 22, 2010

    anyone thats been in the parts industry as long as i have know's!! what brass shim stock is i used it for over 45 years and was around in the days of model A's and T's and used in every machine shop around and no! once brass is fastened securely in a area needed to shimm! then it never wears out unless you don;t put enough there and allow movement ! the correct name of it is!! (BRASS SHIM STOCK) comes in a roll and they will make you buy a whole roll but well worth the investment cost about $12-15 pr roll depending on the gauge size and roll length

  • Anonymous Jan 22, 2010

    also check this site out it maybe of help to your quest



    http://www.autopartsfair.com/ford-usedpa...

  • Anonymous Jan 22, 2010

    also check this site out it maybe of help to your quest



    http://www.autopartsfair.com/ford-usedpa...

  • Anonymous Jan 22, 2010

    have you got a NAPA store? nearby or a machine shop? best 2 sources i know for getting it! or call or contact J.C. whitney

  • Anonymous Sep 25, 2011

    I know you probably have this fix already..Ive ran into that before..It wasnt that the spindle hole was wore ,,but the aftermarket part i bought was machined to small...I went back with ford and the pinch bolt tighten right up..

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Replace cv joints

Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.



FRONT DRIVESHAFTS

REMOVAL
  1. Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and nut lock Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut from the end of the stub axle.
  3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
  4. Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
  5. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
  6. Remove the two front disc brake caliper to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts
  7. Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  8. Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake Caliper Do not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
  9. Remove the brake rotor from the hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut Nut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
  11. Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB-991113 Tie Rod End Removal From Steering Knuckle Arm
  12. Remove the steering knuckle to ball joint stud, clamping nut and bolt Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment from the steering knuckle.
  13. Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering Knuckle Note: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut. NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
  14. Pull steering knuckle assembly out and away from the outer C/V joint of the driveshaft assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  15. Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
  16. Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle When removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
INSTALLATION
  1. Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
  2. Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
  3. Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
  4. Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
  5. Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
  6. Slide drive shaft back into front hub and bearing assembly. Then install steering knuckle onto the stud of the ball joint assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  7. Install a new steering knuckle to ball joint clamping bolt and nut Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment Tighten the clamping bolt and nut to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  8. Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
  9. Install braking disc on hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  11. Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
  12. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
  13. Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  14. Lower vehicle.
  15. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.) Torquing Front Stub Axle To Hub Nut
  16. Install the spring wave washer on the end of the stub axle.
  17. Install the hub nut lock, and a new cotter pin Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the hub nut lock as shown in Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut
  18. Check for correct fluid level in transaxle assembly. Refer to Group 21, Transaxle for the correct fluid level checking procedure for the type of transaxle being checked.
  19. Set front toe on vehicle to required specification.
1helpful
1answer

How do i fix front right ball joint for 2001 mazda protege lx?

SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT FRONT OF VECHICLE ON JACK STAND MAKE SURE VECHICLE PARKED ON SOLID LEVEL GROUND. REMOVE WHEEL OR TIRE. REMOVE BALL JOINT STUD PINCH BOLT AND NUT FROM THE STEERING KNUCKLE.REMOVE BALL JOINT BY PRYING IT FROM THE KNUCKLE.REMOVE BALL JOINT TO LOWER CONTROL ARM BOLT AND NUT. INSTALL NEW BALL JOINT TO LOWER CONTROL ARM.TORQUE THE BOLT TO 86 FT LBS INSTALL BALL JOINT TO THE STEERING KNUCKLE TORQUE BOLT TO 43 FT LBS YOU MORE LIKELY NEED FRONT END REALIGNMENT AFTER THE JOB DONE.
2helpful
1answer

Replace lower ball joints. How do you replace Lower ball jonits?

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle, allowing the front suspension to hang free.
  2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. WARNING
    Be careful when working in the area of the CV-joint boot. Damage to the boot could result in eventual CV-joint failure. If necessary, install CV-joint boot protector tool J-34754 or equivalent, to protect the boot.
  3. On Eldorado and Seville with 4.6L engine, remove the road sensing suspension position sensor from the lower control arm.
  4. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the ball joint stud. Use ball joint separator tool J-36226 or equivalent, on Deville and Fleetwood or ball joint separator tool J-35315 or equivalent, on Eldorado and Seville, to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
  5. On Deville and Fleetwood, loosen the stabilizer bar link nut.
    1. Drill out the 3 rivets retaining the ball joint to the lower control arm and remove the ball joint. NOTE: Recommended drill-bit is 1⁄2 inch (13 mm). Fig. 1: Drilling the rivets out of the lower control arm 91048g05.gif
      Fig. 2: Installing the bolts in the lower control arm 91048g06.gif
      To install:
  6. Attach the new ball joint to the lower control arm with 3 mounting bolts and nuts.
    1. On Deville and Fleetwood, the bolts must be installed from the top of the control arm.
    2. On Eldorado and Seville, the bolts must be installed from the bottom of the control arm
    3. Tighten the nuts to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).
    4. On Catera, the bolts must be installed from the top of the control arm.
    5. Tighten the nuts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
  7. On Deville and Fleetwood, tighten the stabilizer bar link nut to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
  8. Connect the ball joint to the steering knuckle and install the castellated nut.
  9. On Deville and Fleetwood, tighten the ball joint nut to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Then tighten the nut an additional 120°, during which a tighten of 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm) must be obtained.
  10. On Eldorado and Seville, tighten the ball joint nut to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Then tighten the nut an additional 120°, during which a minimum torque of 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) must be obtained. If the minimum torque is not obtained, check for stripped threads. If the threads are okay, replace the ball joint and knuckle.
  11. On Catera, tighten the pinch bolt to 74 ft. lb. (100 Nm).
  12. Install a new cotter pin. If the cotter pin cannot be installed because the hole in the stud does not align with a nut castellation, tighten the nut up to an additional 60°to allow for installation. NEVER loosen the nut to provide for cotter pin installation.
  13. On Eldorado and Seville with 4.6L engine, install the road sensing suspension position sensor to the lower control arm.
  14. If necessary, remove the CV-joint boot protector tool.
  15. Install the wheel and tire assembly and lower the vehicle. Fig. 3: Separating the ball joint from the steering knuckle 84208016.gif
    Fig. 4: Lower ball joint installation - Deville and Fleetwood 84208017.gif
    Fig. 5: Lower ball joint installation - Eldorado and Seville 84208018.gif
3helpful
1answer

Procedure for replacing rear whl brgs on a 2003 escape awd

4-Wheel Drive
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Rear wheel
    • Rear brake shoes
    • Rear halfshaft nut and loosen the halfshaft from the hub
    • Wheel hub and place it in a vise
    • Inner wheel bearing race from the hub
    • Antilock Brake System (ABS) sensor bracket and move the sensor aside, if equipped
    • Parking brake cable from the steering knuckle
    • Brake line from the wheel cylinder and support the knuckle
    • Lower shock absorber nut
    • Lower ball joint by holding the ball joint stud
    • Upper ball joint
    • Coil spring while noting the location of the insulator
    • Steering knuckle cam
    • Steering knuckle
    • Snapring and press out the outer wheel bearing race from the knuckle
      06017-esca-g92.gif

      Rear hub and bearing
      Click to Enlarge

To install:

  1. Install or connect the following:
    • New wheel bearing into the steering knuckle
    • Snapring to the knuckle
    • Wheel hub
    • Steering knuckle cam and hand tighten the bolt
    • Coil spring
    • Shock absorber lower nut. Torque the nut to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) for 2002-04 models; 129 ft. lbs. (175 Nm).
    • Upper ball joint. Torque the nut to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm).
    • Lower ball joint. Torque the nut to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Align the steering knuckle cam and torque the bolt to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
    • Brake line to the wheel cylinder. Torque the brake line bracket bolt to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) and the brake line fastener to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
    • Parking brake cable to the backing plate. Torque the bolt to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
    • ABS sensor bracket. Torque the bolt to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm), if equipped
    • Halfshaft nut. Torque the nut to 214 ft. lbs. (290 Nm).
    • Brake shoes
    • Rear wheel
    • Negative battery cable
  2. Fill and bleed the brake system.
  3. Check and adjust the wheel alignment as needed.

2-Wheel Drive
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Rear wheel
    • Rear brake drum
    • Wheel hub nut
    • Wheel hub
    • Inner wheel bearing race from the hub
    • Snapring
    • Wheel bearing outer race from the knuckle
      06017-esca-g92.gif

      Rear hub and bearing
      Click to Enlarge 06017-esca-g93.gif

      Rear hub removal
      06017-esca-g94.gif

      Inner wheel bearing removal-rear hub/bearing
      06017-esca-g95.gif

      Rear wheel bearing removal-2wd
      06017-esca-g96.gif

      Rear wheel bearing removal-4wd

To install:
Install or connect the following:

  • Wheel bearing in to the knuckle
  • Snapring
  • Wheel hub into the wheel bearing
  • Wheel hub nut. Torque the nut to 214 ft. lbs. (290 Nm).
  • Brake drum
  • Rear wheel
  • Negative battery cable
    06017-esca-g97.gif

    Rear wheel bearing installation
    06017-esca-g98.gif
    hope this helps if so send testimonial comment or even any other questions you have

1helpful
1answer

Replacement Front Suspension, Lower Ball Joint 2000 Ford Taurus SE ,what all has to removed to replace the lower ball joint?

The easiest way is too remove the whole knuckle and remove the joint on a bench. The Ball Joint is in the knuckle, not in the lower control arm. Try to not break pinch bolt on lower strut clamp. Hope this helps.. :-) Cobra
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1answer

How do you put in a ball joint in a 2001 sebring convertible

It depends on exactly which ball joint of the 3 per side your changing, but here are the details.

COMPRESSION LOWER ARM & LATERAL LOWER ARM ASSEMBLIES
Removal
1. Loosen compression lower arm ball joint nut. Using steering linkage puller, separate ball joint and
knuckle. Remove nut, bolts and compression lower arm assembly. Remove dust cover.
2. Remove stay. Remove shock absorber lower mounting bolt. Loosen lateral lower arm ball
joint and knuckle nut. Using steering linkage puller, separate ball joint and knuckle. Remove nut, bolt and
lateral lower arm assembly. Remove dust cover.
Inspection
Using preload socket, ensure breakaway torque for compression lower arm ball joint is 4-22 INCH lbs. (0.5-2.5
N.m) for 2000 models. On 2001 models, breakaway torque is 22-54 INCH lbs. (2.5-6.1 N.m). Ensure
breakaway torque for compression lateral lower arm ball joint is 13 INCH lbs. (1.5 N.m). Check compression
lower arm, lateral lower arm, dust covers, and bushings for damage and wear.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Use NEW ball joint nuts. Lubricate lip and inside of dust cover with
multipurpose lubricant. Using installer, install dust cover. Check front wheel alignment.
UPPER ARM ASSEMBLY
Removal
Using steering linkage puller, loosen upper arm ball joint and knuckle nut. Remove self-locking nut. Remove upper arm and upper arm shaft assembly. Remove dust cover.
Inspection
Using preload socket, ensure breakaway torque for upper arm ball joint is 3-13 INCH lbs. (0.3-1.5 N.m).
Replace upper arm assembly when measured value exceeds specification. Check upper arm, dust cover, and
bushings for damage and wear.
Installation
1. To install, reverse removal procedure. Use NEW self-locking nuts. Lubricate lip and inside of dust cover
with multipurpose lubricant. Using Ball Joint Installer (MB990800), install dust cover.
2. Ensure upper arm shaft assembly is installed at indicated angle. Verify upper arm shaft
assembly installation. Check front wheel alignment.

Once you have the correct arm off and a replacement joint (if available, some are not serviceable and require the arm to be replaced) then you will need a press or a ball joint press to change the joint. Such as
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38335

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46389

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66958

or http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46967
4helpful
1answer

How to change ball joints on 1994 chevy blazer

Changing the actual ball joints themselves is pretty easy (the replacements just bolt in), however disassembling everything else is very involved, especially if you have a 4x4. Some of the original equipment ball joints are riveted in, so you may need to drill out the rivets to remove the old ball joints. Some models have ball joints that are pressed in. (Your model should not be pressed in. They are either riveted or bolted if they have been replaced already) This is not a job I would recommend to someone who does not know how to do it. You need to disassemble/take tension off the suspension, disassemble the steering knuckles, etc. There are specialized tools you will need as well such as a pickle fork for breaking the knuckle away from the ball joint/A arm, spring compressor or torsion bar removal tool (depending on what your vehicle is equipped with), torque wrench, etc.

If you are set on tackling it anway, do yourself a favor and go to your local auto parts store and pick up a repair manual for your Blazer. It will have the procedure to step you through it, torque specs, and tool part numbers listed in it.
19helpful
1answer

2000 Ford Taurus. How do I change a ball joint?

Lower Ball Joint Inspection
  1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle.
  3. Prior to carrying out any inspection of the ball joints inspect the wheel bearing.
  4. Have an assistant pull inward and outward on the top and the bottom tire. Mount a suitable dial indicator and measure the movement between the ball joint and the lower arm. If the movement is at or exceeds 0.03 in. (0.75 mm) install a new ball joint.
167f4af.gif

Removal & Installation To Remove:
  1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
  2. Remove the knuckle from the front suspension.
  3. Remove the snap ring from the ball joint.
  4. Press the ball joint out of the knuckle with a suitable ball joint press and adapters.
656c3d7.gif
26helpful
1answer

Replacing a front wheel bearing

here is a step by step instructions on how to replace your bearing. please copy and paste the link into your browser for an image.

please do not forget to rate and comment about your experience with fixya today.

Removal & Installation
  1. Apply the brakes and hold in place.
  2. Raise the vehicle.
  3. Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
  4. Remove the cotter pin, lock nut and spring washer from the hub nut.
  5. While the brakes are applied, loosen and remove the hub nut on the end of the driveshaft.
  6. Release the brakes.
  7. Remove the front disc brake caliper and adapter as an assembly, and the brake rotor from the steering knuckle.
  8. Remove the nut attaching the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle. To do this, hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while loosening and removing the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench.
  9. Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB991113.
  10. Remove the tie rod heat shield.
  11. Remove the nut and pinch bolt clamping the ball joint stud to the steering knuckle.

    CAUTION The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Hold the bolts stationary in the steering knuckles while removing the nuts, then tap the bolts out using a pin punch.
  12. Remove the two bolts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle.

    NOTE Use caution when separating the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle, so the ball joint seal does not get cut.
  13. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle by prying down on lower control arm and up against the ball joint boss on the steering knuckle.

    NOTE Do not allow the driveshaft to hang by the inner C/V joint; it must be supported to keep the joint from separating during this operation.
  14. Pull the steering knuckle off the driveshaft outer C/V joint splines and remove the steering knuckle.

    NOTE The cartridge type front wheel bearing used on this vehicle is not transferable to the replacement steering knuckle. If the replacement steering knuckle does not come with a wheel bearing, a new bearing must be installed in the steering knuckle. Installation of the new wheel bearing and hub must be done before installing the steering knuckle on the vehicle.
  15. If the wheel bearing and hub need removal. Do not reuse the wheel bearing.
    http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/content/images/32050/images/32050_ptcr_g0035.gif The separation of the ball joint and the knuckle
To install:
  1. Slide the hub of the steering knuckle onto the splines on the driveshaft C/V joint.
  2. Install the steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud aligning the bolt hole in the knuckle boss with the notch formed in the side of the ball joint stud.
  3. Install a new ball joint stud pinch bolt and nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).

    CAUTION The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during installation. Install the nuts while holding the bolts stationary in the steering knuckle.
  4. Position the lower end of the strut assembly in line with the upper end of the steering knuckle and align the mounting holes . Install the two attaching bolts. The bolts should be installed with so that the nuts face towards the front of the vehicle once installed. Install the nuts. Holding the bolts in place tighten the nuts to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (53 Nm) plus an additional 90° turn after the specified torque is met.
  5. Place the tie rod heat shield on the steering knuckle arm so that the shield is positioned straight away from the steering gear and tie rod end once installed. Align the hole in the shield with the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Install the outer tie rod ball stud into the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Start the tie rod attaching nut onto the stud. Hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while tightening the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench. To fully tighten the nut to specifications, use a crowfoot wrench on a torque wrench to turn the nut, and a wrench on the stud.
  6. Tighten the nut to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). Install the brake rotor, disc brake caliper and adapter.
  7. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the driveshaft outer C/V joint. Install the hub nut in the end of the driveshaft and snug it.
  8. Have a helper apply the brakes. With vehicle brakes applied to keep brake rotor and hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm)
  9. Install the spring washer, lock nut and cotter pin on the hub nut. Wrap the cotter pin ends tightly around the lock nut.
  10. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Install the wheel mounting nuts and tighten them to a torque of 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
  11. Lower the vehicle.
  12. Set the front toe on the vehicle to required specification.
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1answer

FRONT END SQWEAL AND MAKES NOISES

Yep....agreed. Ball joints are bad....if you had done maintenance on the front end steering or suspension system, you need a front end alignment. But, you definitely have issues with the suspension system.

Tierod, ball joints, struts....could be a lot of things.

Let us know what has been done to the front end.
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