Where is the starter relay - 1997 Toyota Camry

st people are familiar with fuses - they allow your car's electronics to work while protecting them from over-voltage situations. Relays are similar, but much larger and more powerful. There's a relay for most of the major components on your car, including the fuel pump, the air conditioner compressor and the starter.
Your starter relay is engaged every time you turn the ignition to run. Voltage is sent through the relay and if it has failed, it stops there. With a dead relay, the starter won't work and your engine won't crank. The relay is subjected to very high voltage when you turn the ignition, and this will eventually cause the contact circuit to burn out. It's also possible for the relay's energizing circuit to fail.
n terms of lifespan, your starter relay should last a very long time. Many drivers never have to replace theirs, but this isn't true across the board. Relays can and do fail at any point, including when the car is new. With that being said, starter motor failure is actually more common than a failed relay, and other problems can present similar symptoms, including a dead or dying car battery. f the starter relay fails, it's the same as if your starter motor fails in terms of what you can expect - you'll be stuck where you are until the relay can be replaced. However, there are signs and symptoms that can warn you of an impending failure and knowing these might save you some serious hassle. They include:

• Starter will not engage at all
• Starter stays engaged (creating a grinding noise)
• Starter only works intermittently (usually when the engine is cold

Most starter relays are part of the starter motor assembly.
Also known as the solenoid.
(This way it serves 3 purposes.
1. The Relay section uses solid copper Contacts for Less volt drop at the high current that a starter motor draws.
2. The Solenoid section is the Mechanical Plunger that engages the cog to flywheel.
3. The Motor spins because the copper contacts are a super connection supplying 100+ Amps)

Does the battery go direct to the Starter Mptor?
Is there a small wire next to where the Battery connects?
If so then this is the relay activation wire (12v to pull relay in)

Happy Starting

External Relay Basics
Same but bigger for Starter Motors
RELAY BASICS

Starter Solenoid - A Gutsy Relay
Testing and replacing pre engaged starter motor solenoid
How To Test Car Starter With Screwdriver And Jumper Cables

Most starter relays are part of the starter motor assembly.
Also known as the solenoid.
(This way it serves 3 purposes.
1. The Relay section uses solid copper Contacts for Less volt drop at the high current that a starter motor draws.
2. The Solenoid section is the Mechanical Plunger that engages the cog to flywheel.
3. The Motor spins because the copper contacts are a super connection supplying 100+ Amps)

Does the battery go direct to the Starter Mptor?
Is there a small wire next to where the Battery connects?
If so then this is the relay activation wire (12v to pull relay in)

Happy Starting

External Relay Basics
Same but bigger for Starter Motors
RELAY BASICS

Starter Solenoid - A Gutsy Relay
Testing and replacing pre engaged starter motor solenoid
How To Test Car Starter With Screwdriver And Jumper Cables

At the starter relay, you have two red or purple wires, one goes to the starter and the other comes from a 30amp fuseable link. Is that fuseable link circuit hot ?
From the key switch, power goes thru the alarm relay, then the clutch safety switch or automatic selector switch, then to the starter relay. The fourth wire on the starter relay is a ground.
You should be able to put power to the starter relay on the white or yellow wire coming from the safety switch to make the relay engage.
My guess is something wrong with the alarm system.

check fuel filter, fuel pump relay, or fuel pump. IF the car don't even crank over, (starter don't work) then:


READ THIS ALL BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING
NOTE: some vehicles have the starter relay and starter mounted together as 1 unit. Sometimes the starter relay and starter are seperate. When I refer to "relay" it could also mean the starter and relay as 1 unit.
Note: "starter switch" is not to be confused with "key switch", although sometimes they are all one unit. The starter switch is usually mounted on the steering column and actuated by a metal rod. On units that are all one unit, the keyswitch/starter switch (both one unit) will have to be replaced. (this is a rare problem, so don't get worried just yet)
1. Check battery voltage, should be between 12.5-14.5 volts. if low voltage replace or charge battery, and try to start car, if it don't crank with new or charged battery, move on.
2. Check connections on the starter relay, even the small one coming from your starter switch. if loose or corroded, clean with a brush and reconnect them. Try to start your car. Did it start? if not, Move on
3. Well now we know the connections aren't the problem. How about a click? did you hear one? If a click is heard, go to #4, if nothing is heard, go to #5
4. Well at least the relay is clicking, but nothing else is going on. The relay is working, so the starter must be bad. Replace the starter and start your car!
5. Humm, connections aren't the problem, maybe the relay is bad, replace your relay with a new one. Move on
6. Now we have a new relay, with clean and tight connections. Start your car. Does it start? If yes, then HORRAY! we fixed it. Does it click? If so then goto #7, If it don't click, then goto #8
7. So here we have a new relay, with good connections that will click when trying to start the car, but nothing else happens. Starter is faulty, replace the starter, and off you go, see ya!
8. So here we have a new relay, with good connections, but it still won't click when we try to start our car. This means that your starter switch is faulty. Replace starter switch and try to start your car. Vroom! finally done with this car problem!
List of shortcuts: if you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the relay and apply +12v to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. You can actually hook up a starter button this way. If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken.

READ THIS ALL BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING
NOTE: some vehicles have the starter relay and starter mounted together as 1 unit. Sometimes the starter relay and starter are seperate. When I refer to "relay" it could also mean the starter and relay as 1 unit.
Note: "starter switch" is not to be confused with "key switch", although sometimes they are all one unit. The starter switch is usually mounted on the steering column and actuated by a metal rod. On units that are all one unit, the keyswitch/starter switch (both one unit) will have to be replaced. (this is a rare problem, so don't get worried just yet)
1. Check battery voltage, should be between 12.5-14.5 volts. if low voltage replace or charge battery, and try to start car, if it don't crank with new or charged battery, move on.
2. Check connections on the starter relay, even the small one coming from your starter switch. if loose or corroded, clean with a brush and reconnect them. Try to start your car. Did it start? if not, Move on
3. Well now we know the connections aren't the problem. How about a click? did you hear one? If a click is heard, go to #4, if nothing is heard, go to #5
4. Well at least the relay is clicking, but nothing else is going on. The relay is working, so the starter must be bad. Replace the starter and start your car!
5. Humm, connections aren't the problem, maybe the relay is bad, replace your relay with a new one. Move on
6. Now we have a new relay, with clean and tight connections. Start your car. Does it start? If yes, then HORRAY! we fixed it. Does it click? If so then goto #7, If it don't click, then goto #8
7. So here we have a new relay, with good connections that will click when trying to start the car, but nothing else happens. Starter is faulty, replace the starter, and off you go, see ya!
8. So here we have a new relay, with good connections, but it still won't click when we try to start our car. This means that your starter switch is faulty. Replace starter switch and try to start your car. Vroom! finally done with this car problem!
List of shortcuts: if you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the relay and apply +12v to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. You can actually hook up a starter button this way. If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken.

NOTE: some vehicles have the starter relay and starter mounted together as 1 unit. Sometimes the starter relay and starter are seperate. When I refer to "relay" it could also mean the starter and relay as 1 unit.
Note: "starter switch" is not to be confused with "key switch", although sometimes they are all one unit. The starter switch is usually mounted on the steering column and actuated by a metal rod. On units that are all one unit, the keyswitch/starter switch (both one unit) will have to be replaced. (this is a rare problem, so don't get worried just yet)
1. Check battery voltage, should be between 12.5-14.5 volts. if low voltage replace or charge battery, and try to start car, if it don't crank with new or charged battery, move on.
2. Check connections on the starter relay, even the small one coming from your starter switch. if loose or corroded, clean with a brush and reconnect them. Try to start your car. Did it start? if not, Move on
3. Well now we know the connections aren't the problem. How about a click? did you hear one? If a click is heard, go to #4, if nothing is heard, go to #5
4. Well at least the relay is clicking, but nothing else is going on. The relay is working, so the starter must be bad. Replace the starter and start your car!
5. Humm, connections aren't the problem, maybe the relay is bad, replace your relay with a new one. Move on
6. Now we have a new relay, with clean and tight connections. Start your car. Does it start? If yes, then HORRAY! we fixed it. Does it click? If so then goto #7, If it don't click, then goto #8
7. So here we have a new relay, with good connections that will click when trying to start the car, but nothing else happens. Starter is faulty, replace the starter, and off you go, see ya!
8. So here we have a new relay, with good connections, but it still won't click when we try to start our car. This means that your starter switch is faulty. Replace starter switch and try to start your car. Vroom! finally done with this car problem!
List of shortcuts: if you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the relay and apply +12v to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. You can actually hook up a starter button this way. If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken.

• READ EVERYTHING BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING
• 
  
• NOTE: some vehicles have the starter relay and starter mounted together as 1 unit. Sometimes the starter relay and starter are seperate. When I refer to "relay" it could also mean the starter and relay as 1 unit.

Note: "starter switch" is not to be confused with "key switch", although sometimes they are all one unit. The starter switch is usually mounted on the steering column and actuated by a metal rod. On units that are all one unit, the keyswitch/starter switch (both one unit) will have to be replaced. (this is a rare problem, so don't get worried just yet)
1. Check battery voltage, should be between 12.5-14.5 volts. if low voltage replace or charge battery, and try to start car, if it don't crank with new or charged battery, move on. 2. Check connections on the starter relay, even the small one coming from your starter switch. if loose or corroded, clean with a brush and reconnect them. Try to start your car. Did it start? if not, Move on 3. Well now we know the connections aren't the problem. How about a click? did you hear one? If a click is heard, go to #4, if nothing is heard, go to #5

4. Well at least the relay is clicking, but nothing else is going on. The relay is working, so the starter must be bad. Replace the starter and start your car!

5. Humm, connections aren't the problem, maybe the relay is bad, replace your relay with a new one. Move on

6. Now we have a new relay, with clean and tight connections. Start your car. Does it start? If yes, then HORRAY! we fixed it. Does it click? If so then goto #7, If it don't click, then goto #8

7. So here we have a new relay, with good connections that will click when trying to start the car, but nothing else happens. Starter is faulty, replace the starter, and off you go, see ya!

8. So here we have a new relay, with good connections, but it still won't click when we try to start our car. This means that your starter switch is faulty. Replace starter switch and try to start your car. Vroom! finally done with this car problem!

• List of shortcuts: if you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the relay and apply +12v to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. You can actually hook up a starter button this way. If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken.

This clicking is due to one of several possible parts. The Starter relay will click if the Battery is low or has a dirty connection. The Starter relay will click if the relay has burned components inside and is the weak link between the Battery and the Starter.

A bad or Grounded-out Starter will ruin a Starter relay by melting its' contact points and then the Starter relay will make the noise you describe.

A smaller Relay in the fuse panel (Ignition Relay) may be keeping the small wires to your Starter Relay from working.

Start out by cleaning the Battery cables for the battery. If not fixed, have someone bypass the Starter Relay after you disconnect the small wires going to that Relay. When bypassed the Starter should turn and if the Key is turned on the RUN position, the engine should start. Be careful to have a stick-shift in Neutral or an Automatic in Park.

If the Starter does not turn when the Starter relay is bypassed, then the starter is bad. If the Battery is bad, then the Starter will not turn either. Check the Battery before condemning the Starter.

Have your starter checked out.