Fuel overfeeding on my 4a-fe engine.

is this and EFI car, or CARB engine, 1990 (USA ) is a transition year.
my guess is USA< EFI.
with a fuel pressure gauge,
we do all 6 tests listed in the FSM. book.
but here are 2.
key on cranking presssure.
idling presssure.
if MPI enigne (engine not stated) we check while gunning the throttle.
test 3.
then leak down tests.
and injector balance tests.

with this.
http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injection-pump-tester-92699.html

method varies by , 1.6L or 1.8L engines.

some cars have a fuel RAIL, MPI engines there is a test port there.
on some cars the fuel filter has fuel test port.

last but really first, is the engine, which is it>?>>???

• 1.6 L 4A-FE (L01) I4
• 1.6 L 4A-GE (LW0) DOHC I4

those are TOY name,, see that 4A >?
the L01 and LWO are GM names for the the engine
the FE means fuel injected engine.

• Geo Prizm base model (based on Toyota AE92 chassis) 1989-1997

sadly there is no, fuel rail fitting, (you'd have make one)
the FSM shows removing the fuel filter. output. line
and connection the guage there.
The fuel pressure should read 38-44 psi
key on pressure not running.
RAIL method beats all test. bar none !
and is.
running would be about 5PSI less. from what you got above.
if not a drop running, the FPreg (FPR) is bad. or
you lost vacuum to it. the vacuum of the running engine
drops pressure,.
that is just 2 tests. there are more , ask.
on my cars lackng rail fittings, i add a Schrader valve, (fuel rated)
from summit racing.

any thing you do here, must be rated for 75PSI,
no funky carb lines. hose and what not are going to work. here.

its not A/C Freon, its called AF, antifreeze coolant, and
all leaks end in , overheating (be patient) and engine destruction(if patient)
how far can you go with an artery cut.>? same deal.
all I have for evidence here, (im blind in this box) is that the cap leak
so buy a new cap, if that dont fix it , it means.
1: ENGINE IS overheating, over 250F,
2: or the engine has a bad head gasket or cracked head or block.
3: or bad water pump (impeller 1/2 gone from neglect)
4: or cores in Rad, some blocked, (neglect)
5: loose fan belt.
5: wow, system not fULL? not kept full of AF at all times????
and more.

the car and engine are 100 % Toyota Corolla.
7a or 4a engines. not stated. here.
these

• 1.6 L 4A-FE (L01) I4
• 1.6 L 4A-GE (LW0) DOHC I4

which one?

wow, no year stated now that is a challenge. no?
what makes you think there is one.?
there are 2 gas engine, air flow systems.
one uses a MAF
one uses MAP
IN 2014 CARS now have both and are adaptive.

is this the 4a or 7a engine , the IS a toyota Corolla. in snakes clothing.

• 1.6 L 4A-FE (L01) I4
• 1.6 L 4A-GE (LW0) DOHC I4

1.8 L 7A-FE (LV6) I4 (gasoline)
1.8 L 1ZZ-FE (LV6) I4 (gasoline) wow 4 engines

if in USA< are you?, canada.?
USA:
open hood see EPA sticker under hood; look up.
see that?
it tells you which engine you had day 1. and year car actual too.

we can not fix (unknown engines. )

cranks fast but will not start.

which engine?

ever do a full tuneup on it, the 60k mile service (interval)

????????????

this engine really is a toyota corolla.

getting too much gas
what does the mean,?

spark tips soaking in fuel.

fuel dripping out exhaust ports to ground?

what?

if flooding did you crank wide open throttle yet, (per oper. guide ins)

????????????

this is called super secret unflood mode, it cuts fuel cranking,

all cars, do that.

this should be your engine, to fix engines, know what you have.

late 1997 change.?





1.8 L 1ZZ-FE (LV6) I4 (gasoline)




DOHC 4valve.

chain cam.



here is the secret to running.

1. 12vdc power to all EFI parts. electric power over 10v.



2. good compression over 150psi all 4 cyl. (new timing belt?)



3. tuned-up and hot spark timed right.



4. good fueling. not to rich or too lean.



5. EGR not stuck open, clean it. or ISC stuck closed, clean it.

The ECU works overtime to start and sustain running.

so it failed. this means something is very wrong.



check engine light on key on,? if not fix that.

then connect scan tool and crank for 5 seconds.

got CMP/CKP or spark errors DTC , any at all?

or scan RPM at 0 cranking?

bingo.

scan the ECU. 1st after checking all fuses.



tuned up,, that is 1st.

if car as VVT-t , option it can fail and cause retarded timing and hard starts.

see the valve cover, here. got VVT-I? I think you dont have this motor.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_ZZ_engine#1ZZ-FE





i think you have this

1993-1997 Geo Prizms were powered by the 4A-FE or optional 7A-FE engine.



as you can see ,knowing what engine is in your car is everything.



4a/7a engine is a belt drive cam.

so did you skip the belt service, ?



if you let it slip, it will not ever start.

the 7a motor will bend its valves, if the belt is ignored.

it is a DOHC , interference engine. so....





the service schedule for the 7A is. 60k on belt

spark plugs and filters

dizzy (distributor engins) new cap/rotor and spark wires too.

Hi there:
Keep in mind this information:

Japanese market engines:
* 3A-U 1.5 L (1490 cc) I4, 8-valve SOHC, carb, 83 hp (62 kW)
* 3A-LU 1.5 L (1490 cc) I4, 8-valve SOHC, carb, transverse mount, 83 hp (62 kW)
* 4A-GEU 1.6 L I4, 16-valve DOHC, EFI, 130 hp (97 kW)
* 2E 1.3 liter
* 5A-F 1.5 liter
* 5A-FHE 1.5 liter
* 4A-FE 1.6 liter
* 4A-GE 1.6 liter
* 4A-GZE 1.6 L (1587 cc) I4, 16-valve DOHC, FI, wide valve angle, supercharger, 165 hp (121 kW) GT-Z
* 2E 1.3 L (1295 cc) I4 cylinder 12v SOHC 73 PS (54 kW; 72 hp)
* 4E-FE 1.3 L (1331 cc) I4 cylinder 16v DOHC 100 PS (74 kW; 99 hp)
* 5E-FE 1.5 L (1497 cc) I4 cylinder 16v DOHC 105 PS (77 kW; 104 hp)
* 5A-FE 1.5 L (1498 cc) I4 cylinder 16v DOHC 105 PS (77 kW; 104 hp)
* 4A-FE 1.6 L (1587 cc) I4 cylinder 16v DOHC 115 PS (85 kW; 113 hp)
* 4A-GE 1.6 L (1587 cc) I4 cylinder 20v DOHC VVT 160 PS (118 kW; 158 hp)
* 4A-GZE 1.6 L (1587 cc) I4 cylinder 16v DOHC supercharged 170 PS (125 kW; 168 hp)

North American market engines:
* 4A-C 1.6 L I4, 8-valve SOHC, carb, 90 hp (67 kW)
* 4A-GE 1.6 L I4, 16-valve DOHC, EFI, 112 hp (86 kW)
* 4A-F 1.6 L (1587 cc) I4, 16-valve DOHC, carb, narrow valve angle, 95 hp (71 kW)
* 4A-FE 1.6 L (1587 cc) I4, 16-valve DOHC, FI, narrow valve angle, 102 hp (76 kW)
* 4A-GE 1.6 L (1587 cc) I4, 16-valve DOHC, FI, wide valve angle, 115 hp (86 kW) 1988/89, 135 hp (100 kW) 1990/91 GT-S
* 4A-FE 1.6 L (1587 cc) I4, 16-valve DOHC, FI, narrow valve angle, 105 hp (78 kW) 93-94 SD
* 4A-FE 1.6 L (1587 cc) I4, 16-valve DOHC, FI, narrow valve angle, 100 hp (75 kW) 95-97 SD
* 7A-FE 1.8 L (1762 cc) I4, 16-valve DOHC, FI, narrow valve angle, 115 hp (86 kW) 93-94 DX and LE
* 7A-FE 1.8 L (1762 cc) I4, 16-valve DOHC, FI, narrow valve angle, 105 hp (78 kW) 95-97 DX, and LE





Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Vehicles covered: Toyota Corolla, 4A-F, 4A-FE, and 4A-GE Engines

Here's your maintenance manual entry for the complete procedure:

OIL PAN REMOVAL & INSTALLATION - 1990 Toyota Corolla

4A-F, 4A-FE and 4A-GE Engines

See Figures 1 through 7

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.





Fig. 1: Exploded view of the oil pan assembly-4A-F and 4A-GE engines

3. Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.





Fig. 2: Remove the oil pan drain plug to drain the engine oil from the crankcase

4. Place a jack under the transaxle to support it.

5. Remove the splash shield from under the engine.

6. Raise the jack under the transaxle slightly.

7. Remove the front exhaust pipe between the exhaust manifold and catalytic converter. Some models have an oxygen sensor, disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring.





Fig. 3: Remove the front exhaust pipe for better access during oil pan removal

8. On the 4A-F and 4A-FE engines, remove the center mounting.






Fig. 4: Remove the bolts and nuts retaining the center mounting-4A-F engine

9. Some 4A-FE engines and all 4A-GE engines are equipped with a stiffener plate. Remove the set bolts and pull the stiffener plate from the vehicle.

10. On the 4A-GE engines, unbolt and lower the flywheel housing under cover.

11. If equipped, remove the oil cooler hose and union from the oil pan. Remove the two nuts and nineteen bolts retaining the oil pan.

12. Insert a blade between the pan and cylinder block, cut off the applied sealer and remove the pan.







Fig. 5: Insert a blade and tap lightly to loosen the oil pan free from the block

To install:

Note: Be careful not to drop any oil on the contact surfaces of the pan and block.

13. Using a razor blade and gasket scraper, remove all traces of packing (FIPG) material from the gasket surfaces. Thoroughly clean all main surfaces to remove loose material. Clean both sealing surfaces with non-residue solvent.





Fig. 6: Apply a reasonable amount of sealant (FIPG) to the oil pan surface-except 7A-FE engine

14. Apply new packing (FIPG) 08826-00080 to the oil pan as shown. Avoid applying excessive amounts to the surface. Be especially careful around the oil passages.

Note: Parts must be assembled within 3 mins of application. Otherwise, the sealer (FIPG) must be removed and reapplied.

15. Install the oil pan over the studs on the block with the nineteen bolts and two nuts. Tighten the bolts to 43 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Make sure when you install the oil pan drain plug using a new gasket.






Fig. 7: Tighten the 19 oil pan retaining bolts securely-4A-F, 4A-FE and 4A-GE engines

16. If equipped, install the oil cooler pipe, two new gaskets and union bolt. Tighten the union bolt to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

17. Install the front exhaust pipe (with new gaskets on either end of the pipe) to the manifold.

18. On the 4A-GE engines, install and secure the flywheel housing under cover if removed.

19. On the 4A-FE engines if removed, attach the stiffener plate. tighten the No. 1 bolt first then the 5 bolts in the sequence shown. Tighten to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).

20. On the 4A-GE engines, attach the stiffener plate with the 3 set bolts and tighten them to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).

21. Attach the center mounting and tighten the member side bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm), plate side to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).

22. Lower the jack from the transaxle.

23. Lower the vehicle, and fill the crankcase with the appropriate amount of engine oil. Engine oil crankcase capacity is 3.4 quarts (with oil filter change).
Above -9 degrees Fahrenheit, use 10W-40 motor oil, and above 10 degrees Fahrenheit, use 20W-50 motor oil.

24. Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks. If all is well, raise the vehicle slightly and install the engine splash cover.

25. Recheck the engine oil level, top off if necessary.

Corollas made from 1993 to 1997 had two engine choices, the 1.6 liter 4A-FE and the 1.8 liter 7A-FE (click here for many details, comparisons, and diagrams).

Fig. 2: Firing order- 4A-C engine (other A-series similar)

Wow, this kind of a problem can drive ya nuts. There are 2 different engines for this car, one is a model 4A-FE and the other is a 7A-FE. The problem sounds like a coil breakdown..I know it sounds nuts because it happens when you hit a bump, but it could be coincidental to a coil breaking down when under load. You will need a decent Ohm Meter to do the following. Check the coil primary resistance [4A-FE & 7A-FE both = 1.11 - 1.75 ohms], then check the secondary resistance [4A-FE & 7A-FE both = 9.0 - 15.7 kilohms]. If either of these values is out of spec, the coil will need to be replaced. If everything is OK, next check the air gap between the signal rotor and the pick up coil projection (CAUTION; use a non-ferrous feeler gauge..ie: paper, brass or plastic). For a 4A-FE and a 7A-FE engine it should be .008 - .0016 in. If this air gap is not correct you have to replace the distributor housing. I hope that this helps to find / fix, or eliminate the distributor. If all this is OK check the lead wire from the distributor...it could have a broken wire inside of the plastic cover. If still no luck, write back and we'll try again.

An engine from another Corolla up to 1997 will fit. There are 2 engines though. 4A-fe (1.6L) or a 7A-fe (1.8L) They look similar but run different Engine managment computers. The 4A-fe uses a 3spd auto trans and the 7A-fe uses a 4spd auto trans. Also some of the wiring may be different.
Hope this helps.

I regret to tell you this, but, the whole truth is: Taking out a diesel and installing a 4AFE will require you to change the entire engine room wiring harness (including the fusebox), the proper 4AFE (manual or auto trans ECU), the fuel pump and the fuel filter, the air intake system, and most def the dashboard harness (which also connects to the ECU). What you have here is 2 entirely different worlds, gasoline vs diesel.
Sorry.
I would not recommend you to undertake this job, unless you have a complete "donor" vehicle for the abovementioned parts.