What is brake lining? it shows on my warning light.

ABS light on C0265 C0201 U1041 Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice

The proportioning valve simply ensures that the front brakes are applied before the rear brakes are, to prevent sideways skids from loss of rear traction. The valve also serves as a warning light when one end, either front or rear, of the system has deficient line pressure. Inside the valve is a cylinder, and a piston that belongs in the center of the valve cylinder (when fluid pressure on each side is equal). When one side of the valve (front or rear brake system) loses pressure (like from a leaking brake line), the piston gets pushed to the low pressure end and makes contact with a switch terminal that turns the light on.The trick to turning the light off is to figure out which end, front or rear brakes, the piston is on, and then bleed the other end to center the piston and turn the light off. Too much pressure on the brake pedal will cause the piston to go past center to the opposite end, and a close watch on the brake warning light will reveal that as the lamp will flicker once while the piston passes center.
Gently depress the brake pedal (requires an assistant) with a bleeder open and close the bleeder as soon as the assistant (brake pumper) sees the light go out. If he sees the light flicker once bleed the other end of the vehicle to go back towards center.

Its the ABS Computer, it is getting to be a common problem now, I have had that happen to me and I almost hit a car. I would unplug the abs until you can get it fixed, the plug is in the box that the brake lines run to from the master cylinder. The ABS light will be on but its better than rear ending someone.

Sounds like warped rotors, If you hit a large puddle of water with hot rotors this
can happen or if you use excessive brake. Best to have the rotors turned and new
pads installed. (I use organic pads to reduce rotor wear but many shops do not
like to use them) The organic pads are softer and wear out sooner but you really want
to have the brake system serviced annually under ideal circumstances.
Hope this is useful.

The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.

1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
   2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
   3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
   4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
   5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
   6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
      

WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
   1. Right rear
   2. Left front
   3. Left rear
   4. Right front
2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
   1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
   2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
   3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
   4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system

Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

the master cylinder could be defective or the proportioning valve is stuck. You can try slamming the brake pedal down at a stop. this may reset the valve, if it goes off thats your problem. if it continues to stay on pull the E Brake or parking brake see if the pedal rises up f the pedal comes up it may mean your rear shoes are worn and the wheel cylinder or caliper seal is leaking. to test if all brakes are working go about 10 mph Be sure you e brake works then hit the brakes once you stop get out and look if there is rubber on the ground on all four wheels. do this in a area where it's safe and you can come to a atop before hitting someone Else's property or going over a cliff. If the front brakes work then your rear are not working if there is no marks on front that means there is a problem with the front brake system. remember the light is a warning jamming down the brakes may cause the master cylinder to fail so be sure your mechanicl emergency brake works good before doing test. otherwise you may experince the pucker factor, one guy at a shop I worked for pushed his tool box ouy yhr tindoor he didn't check the e-brake before doing the test in front of the shop. Opps.

there is an equlaiser valve the best way is the let the car sit and gravity bleed if went dry or line broke
if this fails slowely press on the brake pedal 3 times in a row make sure you go slow down then slow back up or valve will close
if valve stuck hit with hammer lightly to loosen it up

did you check your brake rotor for warpage. even a .010 warp on the rotor will be felt in the steering when aplying the brakes. use a dial indicator to check the warping

Ther is usually no warning light, but if you hear squeeling they might need to be changed. Another way to check them is if when you step on the brakes to slow down you may feel a little shimmy in the front wheels which mean that the front brakes are doing most of the slowing down and that the rear brakes are worn.

When the wavy light is on with parenthasis around it and at the same time the (!) and (P) lights are on, this indicates a serious brake concern