Differentail slack / back lash

I hate to tell you this, but you’re supposed to hook the front end up first(@ the parking brake lever or pedal assembly) and work your way toward the back ultimately ending up at the hub where it hooks to the rear brake assembly.

There should be an adjustment in the middle area of the cable to get some extra length one way or the other and that may be enough to allow you to hook it up to the pedal/lever assembly. This varies from vehicle to vehicle but there’s usually an adjustment in the central area if the cable, usually halfway between the front and rear of the vehicle along the frame rail or somewhere close routed with some other cables/lines, etc.

You may be able to do this without starting over, that’ll depend on the adjustment you find(if any but there should be) and how much extra cable(or “slack”) you can get.


Try to unhook it totally from the rear brakes and pull the cable itself from the front(near handbrake or pedal), pull the inner metal cable itself while holding the black insulated part that is visible. The cable just slides inside of an insert that’s inside of the black outer cable that runs from front to back. There may very well be enough slack on each end to get a bit More cable so it’ll stretch to where you need to get it to hook it up.

If that doesn’t work, you can try the following, but I’d strongly recommend unhooking it at the rear and starting over from the front and work toward the back- it’s designed to work this way and if it’s not long enough you need to make sure it’s routed exactly as it should be, there’s not much margin for error or adjustment in most cases, it’s gonna be tight, but that’s the way they all are, unfortunately.

I'm assuming you've been replacing the brake shoes in the hand brake. Rear drum brakes are designed to automatically adjust for slack as they wear. You will have to wind back the adjusters in both rear drums and the threaded adjuster on the lever end of the cable. This should give you enough slack to reconnect it.
**Chock the wheels or put the vehicle on axle stands BEFORE you do this.**
Wind the lever end adjuster back to approximately half way. Pull the lever to the correct 'On' position. Rewind BOTH rear drum adjusters back into a position where they grip the drum firmly but spins freely when the hand brake is released. With the hand brake off spin the drum. You should be able to hear a very faint noise as the drum skims the shoes.

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Pinion seal. It's pretty common. http://youtu.be/Z0zz1_4UYqk

There are bearings in the rear diff that make a "whining" noise it can be repaired by replacing the bearings. Here is how its done;

1. Jack up the rear end and support if correctly with jack stands.
2. remove the wheels and expose the axles
3. remove the differential cover and drain the differential
4. rotate the main gear inside and expose the take down bolt. (8mm)
5. remove the take down pin in the spline drive. 8mm nut
6. remove the axles and remove the main gear. then take out the bearings.
7. replace the bearings and reinstall the components in reverse order.
8. refill the differential.

This noise is probably a valve lash adjuster, try hydraulic lifter treatment. If that does'nt fix if you will have to replace the lash adjuster.

I'm not sure what type of noise you're hearing, but if you feel like it's coming from the rear of the car and it feel like a metal on metal vibration when doing a U turn. You rear differentail might need to be flush. You have to use Honda Dual Pump fluid(need about 3qt) other fluid will damage your differentail.

To flush rear differentail, (Honda dealer flush diff system for about $155)
1. remove both drain plug and let the fluid drain out(picture below)
2.Install lower drain plug, pump fluid in differentail using top plug until fluid come out.
3. install upper drain plug.
4.driver car for 3 miles and make couple U turn left and right.
5.repeat step 1-3 and you're done. Do one more flush if noise is still there.


I'm not sure about your SRS light. The dealer will have to scan for the code. If it's a code for a bad seat belt buckle or seat belt tensioner, it's usully cover under lifetime warranty.(cover only if it wasn't abuse like dog ate it, car crash, hit it with hammer, etc.....)

good luck

If you want a quick and inexpensive way to fix this immediately and have it last a long time just take black electrical tape and stretch it tightly over the seat catch/latch this will take up the slack without having to try to adjust the seats while at the same time creating a cushion between the two metal latches and catches which should dampen the annoying sounds of the rattling.Hope this works.
Happy Motoring!!

it is definetly a differntial issue. to see if the gears are turning properly lift car, remove the diff cover and turn the tire by hand. both tires should turn if not its time to get new gears or differentail.

The lash adjusters are hydraulic and will have to be replaced. They can be replaced without removing the head, you just have to remove the necessry intake & parts that restrict your access to removing the valve covers, then remove the rockers (that's where the adjusters are of course), replace the adjusters and reassemble. Make sure you note the direction of everything, once reassembled it should fit exactly as it did before, with a little less slack.

All engine parts like this need oil. Soak the valve lash adjusters in oil overnight before installing, preferably in a warm location, or place a warm light next to the container you put them in, they work like valve lifters, just smaller.

Good luck