1995 Honda Accord 4 Cyl Auto does not start. Checked Fuel line. OK. Checked Spark Plugs. OK. Opened Engine Cover, Cam Shaft OK. Timing Belt Turns. Still will not start. Any ideas of What to check? Is there a computer on this car?

I would start off by turning the engine manually by hand (in the natural direction) until the #1 cylinder is up. Then I would verify all my spark plug wires on the rotor and verify that the number 1 position on the rotor goes to the number 1 cylinder while the cylinder is up and looking for that spark. Then verify your firing order in the manual because the 2nd position the rotor goes to is that firing order and it's not going to be cylinder number 2. I had that problem once myself so recheck the order of rotation.

ok penny , you have a G16 engine
and no spark, that mean at all 4 spark plugs and the coil?
5 places, ?
if the coil makes spark, but not at plugs. that means
the cam belt slipped, did you forget to do the 60,000 mile service?
sure.
turn crank by hand does distributor rotor spin?
No , belt snap.
same check , look and oil filler hole, does the cam spin? , cranked hand turned.?
no ?, belt is gone. CAM TIMING BELT.

yes turns, then check compression (a tool) at wide open throttle.
if compression is over 150 PSI, then ok
if way low, like 80 the cam belt is slipped,
all easy tests, all less that 20 bucks in tools.

FIRST check fuses.
then check that the Check engine light glows key on
if not , there is no DC electrical power to the ECU (injection system or spark or both. the ECU cuts fuel for no spark, (hint))
there are 3 fuses, that must be good, to start any suzuki this year.
2 are critical.

if all this is klingon ?
get it serviced.

which engine??????????????????
one of those is false. i bet. ever the the 60k mile tune up this decade ? Yes, good, no?, well, what did you expect?
driving honda's top death is just that....see end. below.

my guess is you are doing one test wrong. , (i cant see you, so...)
THE ROPES: (called basics ) order counts big time.

1-good engine? (compression at 150psi or more x4? or x6 if V6.
2-good spark at all cyl. and timing right. check timing.
if timing of spark is way off the cam belt slipped, no service ever done is cause.
3-good fueling, it runs. (if not flooded (is it) test fuel does work here.
in this step.

turns off driving, but how did you do that, if it wont start?????
my guess is the stalls were the preamble to the end death


exceptions, to above. ( 1st CAT ,is rare)
1: CAT melted. (there is a cheap simple test ,ask)
2: ISC stuck closed, (Aka; iAC electric) use 10% throttle to mimic this bad part and car starts easy , this trick is in the operators manual.
3: EGR stuck wide open, see 10% above, trick. or clean it.
4: engine flooded, see opr. guide for WOT cranking
you crank at WOT. wide open throttle, and EFI cuts all fuel, clearing
the flood.
so, do you look at spark tips for BAD COLOR or soaking wet with fuel.
Look at them. (they speak volumes)

old spark plates and winter hate each other..
do the full tune up, filters ,cap rotor, wires and plugs. and magic happes, and if the timing belt is old, BOOM
the HONDA IS NOT FREE RUNNING at all.
that means ,skip belt service, a $25 belt can wreck the whole engine.
or at the least just bent valves,
on this engine, my cylinder leak down tool comes out 1st.
(your symptoms)

PLUGS LOOK LIKE THIS?

http://www.fixkick.com/fresh-air/sparks-flooded1a.jpg

have spark at 1 cyl or ALL?
which of the 5 engines.
never post engine problems without your engine options
the VIN? (digit 8? is engine code)
or the displacement.?
or hood tag, shows honda engine code. F22, 23, 27, 30?

ok if you have spark times 4 or 6
and if engine has good 60k mile tune up. then spark is good
after all a tune up is not just throwing parts, its checking spark too and timing. (if timing is found way off, the timing belt is slipped and boom blown motor next, so I always check timing, (spark) .
next is fuel, (we pretend compression is good and walk the line of dreams) and
check for dry spark tips or wet
dry no fuel, try test fuel.
soaking in raw fuel, timing belt slipped, or just flooding from bad fuel
or its -30F outside and running summer fuel?

ill let you watch scotty, (its generic, and assume engine is good)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp

Something is very wrong with the camshaft (lobes worn down?), or the oil galley to the hydraulic lifters is blocked or otherwise has inadequate pressure. I initially considered a broken cam pulley key or slipping belt, but that seems to be ruled out by the distributor rotor turning - it is driven by a gear on the camshaft. It's possible something has slipped out of time - check the timing marks on the crank and cam pulleys, and verify that the key slots on the pulleys are lined up with the key slots on the shafts.

take the head off bent valves thats for sure

I have had simmilar, is the fuel pump delivering fuel?
Is the fuel filter clean?
Are you getting a good spark on all of the plugs?
Have you got good cyl compression?

If all the coils are giving spark now,then you moat likely have gas fouled plugs now,so change them out with new ones,all 8 of them.If you do not have spark on all plug wires,pull the timing belt cover,and align the cam shaft and the cam,to see if the belt has jumped.If It hasn`t,replace the crankshaft sensor.

that sure sounds like a voltage drop through the battery cables. could be a drop to the fuse box causing low voltage to engine sensors. i dont see the cam sensor causing your problem if jumper cables fix it. you need a multimeter with a min/max setting connected to both ends of one of the cables while cranking. anything over a half volt from one end to the other is too much and it would need replaced. do this on both pos. and neg. cable,including cable to fuse box. check batt. voltage while cranking. these fuel injected engines are very sensitive to voltage and if its too low to certain sensors it wont start. cam sensor controlls fuel injector timing via ecm, crank sensor controlls spark. it would be more helpful to me to know weather it is spark or fuel you aren't getting while cranking. hope i helped you and not caused you more questions. keep me up to date. dustang

Ok if you have spark from the coil to the distributor cap, the rotor inside the distributor cap is bad and needs to be replaced, This is the only possible answer.
If you find this answer helpful please give me a fixya!
Thank you, Randy and if you need more help please contact me and I will do all I can to help you.

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