Engine light goes on and the car misses. Last time I had it in for engine light on they told me number 4 spark plug had rust on it. They charged me over 15.00 for one spark plug. I can do the work my self but I need to know where to find where the spark plugs are under the hood. I have a Mazda MPV LX, 2002

ever see the truck run perfect before, or not in 10 years?
C2500 right not k2500 ,pickup.
NO ENGINE told ,4 engines 3 gas 1diesel.
but is gas so 4 engine not told (no fun there, blind)
4.7 to 5.7L and 5.4L gas.
crankshaft and cam forgot to say sensor?
CAB means distrib CAP .
rotor sure.
why not new SPARK PLUGS first and for sure those ratty old HV spark wire, useless, I run NGK mag wires.

battery good, cranks fast and engine spins fast and does not start.
and engine compression is good
and we test that spark is good on all 8 cylinders not just one,all 8 are test
and also tested for spark timing. for sure if distributor was removed, or set loose at base and timing lost.

if all that is good the engine now runs on spray test fuel in a can. for 3 seconds, even with fuel pump fuse pulled.
if you get this far,
we check fuel pressure next and even for bad fuel.
no history of car told
bad fuel ,old rusty tanks wreck injectors.
26 year old truck,.

things bad that old are, all fluids and belts
fuel filter packed in gunk and rust.
thermostat bad.
spark parts bad, cap/rotor wire sets x8 and spark plugs. (or timed wrong or put back wrong firing order)
injectors clogged, bad fuel or rust in the tank
bad FPR, bad map sensor.(or only clogged)
or bad fuel pump if pressure is low and FPR not bad.

most of my tests all take tools and meters
a tech can not fix cars lacking his tools.
and skills to use them./
even a timing light is needed on all distrb cars
and all EFI cars a fuel pressure gauge.
and compression gauge
and vacuum gauge.

C1500 pickup/
that was done backward, pump first? and bath in fuel.
the order is,
engine , spark and last fuel
are those spark plugs 27 years old,?
can not burn fuel with spark dead. test them all we do. spark tests
same goes on dead engines (mech)
we check engine compression first, 150PSI up and equal x8
then spark x8
IMMO fitted cars the IMMO lamp must not be glowing wrong.
then fuel tests
and air tests (you said added air is no cure , good test that)
means ISC dead , no air to start.

thanks that make any engine seem bad and is not really .
EGR stuck open
huge vacuum leaks (if maf based EFI)
CATS melted blocking exhaust and engine can not pump air
a vacuum test (cracking levels) proves cats not melted.
ISC valve stuck closed no idle air.


use the scan told more correctly?
1; connect up tool.
2: key on scan (nothing you said)
3:crank for 5 seconds.
4: release key (NOT OFF)
5: scan again, give a few minutes to roll out DTC'S if not push the pending DTC button, see them. roll out. using a real scan tool.
not a $13 lame code only reader.
ok still dead
remove fuel pump fuse or relay. (we are expecting flooded engine)
crank for 5 seconds to clear the flood at WOT wide open throttle.
then try in this state now, spray starter fluid, to induction.
3 seconds spray ,get 3seonds run time. repeat 3 times listen for engine damage. Noise.

last and not the least
cap and rotor and wires sets are no good, 27 years old ever
assuming me above battery charger keeps it charged
assumes Distributor not lost time. pulled and put back wrong. as vast folks do, all the time.

not told when it last ran perfectly (never seen it or?)

NO ENGINE TOLD OR VIN told (it has engine codes) 1.5L USA?
1992, old car 30years old, and most have 10 problems not just 1.
when did this car run perfectly last, (last week, month,year ,decade?)
all spark wires dead, we do tests. here is the list of tests.
using tools.
check all fuses first, key on is best.
all fuses read 12vdc both ends, good, 1 side dead is blown fuse.
the ignition coil is hiding inside distrb, under the cap.
this old old engine is cam belt drive (rubber band) engine.
the belt fails at 60,000 miles and folks do not replace it and it slips/snaps and all spark is now dead. because the cam spins the Distrib. (dizzy)
see that, super common failure on all rubber band engines?
there is a way to test the spark coil cap off, using jumper wires.
spark dead causes (all 4 cylinders)

• a blown fuse (a 20cent part)
  
• cam belt bad (slip/snap or shredded ) over 60k miles SURE
  
• coil bad./(hV spark coil, dead)
  
• icm bad.
• distributor bad. or rotor bad ,missing or cap bad (shorted)
  
• there are more (wires bad) but this is lions share.
  

You need to go to a parts house and have them read the codes. Most do this at no charge. A blinking service engine light indicates that a problem exists that can cause engine damage. For example, if a spark plug is miss firing it could damage the catalytic converter. The steady light indicates that a code has been recorded.

Since the engine light is back on the code is likely to help you diagnose the problem.
1. If you have a code reader for your car plug it in and it should tell you what the computer thinks the problem is.
Remember for the engine to miss it has to be loosing fuel or spark. The spark plugs are only one of the parts required to make a reliable spark in the plug as the engine is running.
2. Check the spark plug wires and the distributor internal for rust contamination around the reluctor magnet area. The 4.3 chevys are bad for this. Have someone start the car for you at night while you look under the hood for spark leakage. In the dark any wire leaking spark enough to make it miss on acceleration will flash blue lights in the dark.
3. Replace the fuel filter.
4. Check for vacuum leaks in the rubber tubing plugged in to the intake manifold.
5. Make sure the battery to engine ground cable is in good condition at both ends and tight.
6. Make sure the battery to chassis ground wire is connected clean and tight.
Good luck.

It is probably electrical, with one or more of your spark plugs randomly not firing. Using an induction timing light (or a "scope") would show which plug is having this problem. Most likely, it is the spark plugs that need replacing. After that, I would consider the distributer cap & rotor, and last would be replacing all the spark plug wires (very carefully, you do NOT want to connect these wrong).

When did the spark plugs last get changed? May need new spark plug wires.

Did you by chance check the resistance of your plug wires? They have a tendency of breaking down over a period of time and need replaced. The spark plugs would have told you what was wrong with the engine many times.

there is a TSB (technical service bulletin) on this issue , with directions to install foam weatherstrip to the AIP.(air intake panel) . TSB #06-06-04-048b
J5

I am no expert and i am only 15 but if you go through a big puddle and it splashes on your engine spark plugs it is not good and if water goes into the exaust pipe