Recently had heads redone. New water pump, new themostat and now the heater only gets luke warm when the engine is idleing and on low. Turn on any other speed and drive off, it gets cold. What the possible problem and solution?

heater blows cold air idle chrysler 300 Questions & Answers ...

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Find solutions to your heater blows cold air idle chrysler 300 question. ... blow warmair for a few mins then back to luke warm. i replaced thermostat ... HEAT BLOWSCOLD AIR WHEN IDLING ONLY GETS HOT WHEN START DRIVING ... About 15 minutes after driving the diver side vents start blowing straight cold air but the ...

Heater only works when pressing the gas? - DoItYourself.com ...

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Nov 3, 2011 - When I press the gas, the air from the vents is nice and hot. .... So am Idriving a car with a ton of problems, or could the power steering ... Just anotherquestion, when warmed up does the engine temperature ... When the heater is on and I'm not pressing the gas pedal, luke warm air blows from the vents.

Heater blows cool air when stopped and warm air while ...

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RedditFeb 12, 2014 - Heater blows cool air when stopped and warm air while driving 2008 Kia Spectra (self. ... just fine but appears to blow cool air when I was stopped at a stoplight. ... My temp gauge would also be pegged high when at idle / low RPM. ...thermostat only blocks coolant going to the radiator, and the heater core, ...Missing: 300m ‎luke

Why is My Car AC Blowing Hot Air? - BlueDevil Products

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While it doesn't seem likely, if you've changed, or had the thermostat changed.... I'd say you got a faulty thermostat. I am curious as to what your temperature gauge says the temperature of the engine and coolant is.. If your gauge is showing hot, I can think of two more possibilities... the water pump isn't pumping right... and, if the water pump isn't working right, the problem can be a cracked head or block, which can cause an airlock in the coolant system. Check the coolant or radiator cap.

when you put the heater on hot and the blower on full and the car is running at idle, the coolant in the heater matrix is cooled quickly,as when the radiator fan comes on to cool the engine, have you tried raising the revs and checking the heater to see if it gets hotter. If this does not happen you could have air lock in the cooling system and may need bleeding properly.

A radiator flush should be done every two years. But, I guess you've done this since you said you needed a solution other than a flush. The way your gauge acts leads me to believe you have an air bubble in the system. It'll have to be bled out. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap and fill the radiator with the proper coolant mix. Start the engine and let it idle. Turn the head wide open. The engine should start to warm up and when the thermostat opens, the level in the radiator will drop. Keep the radiator full while the engine is running. The air should be pushed out of the open radiator and it could cause coolant to come out with some force so don't get your face close to the opening. After 15 minutes the engine should be properly warmed up and most if not all of the air should be out of it. You should also be getting hot air from the heater vents.

When you first start the engine you should be able to see the coolant moving as the water pump is working. If you don't get any movement then you may be looking at a bad water pump.

Bad themostat, dirty radiator (the front of it), corroded interior core of the radiator, weakening water pump, bad radiator fan.....just to name a few. More than likely? Low antifreeze level, or the thermostat.

If it's not the thermostat I have seen this happen numerous times in Fords. The engineers, in their infinite wisdom, placed the heater core HIGHER than the engine block. The coolant gets low and ya get an air pocket in the core. The fix...drain cooling system, remove t-stat and drill a SMALL hole in the flat part, reinstall it with hole straight up (It's an air bleed, if ya didn't figure that out), refill the system NOT THE REGULAR WAY!!!! Remove the hose that runs from the engine to the heater core. Use a funnel and SLOWLY pour coolant in, until the reservoir is full. This will eliminate the air lock in the core.

sounds like the thermostat is not functioning correctly? either that or not in at all? thus making the water which would normally warm up quickly, warm up extremely slowly and on really cold days not at all? with a 2.6 engine your car shoudl warm up in record time?

It sounds like you have low engine coolant levels or air trapped in the coolant.

Impalas are known for this issue, where the heating won't work properly.... usually caused by trapped air/bubbles in cooling system or slightly low coolant level. Park car so that the right front side is elevated and remove the coolant OVERFLOW bottle cap (NEVER the radiator cap) while engine is running.. This should allow the trapped air to escape. Also add a bit more coolant if needed.

I have the same problem. we changed the thermastat. the engine coolant was full of muck and looked rusty like something was rusting away.we then back flushed the system including the heater core.It's alot better but we think the water pump propellers are rusting away. this sometimes happens. so we are keeping an eye on the temp to see if it is getting to hot or over heating if so the the water pump needs replacing. I would have the system back flushed to see if that helps you could be having the same problem I' having. Hope this helps.