If/How long will it crank over before it stops? Are you saying it will crank over, but very slow? Has it been sitting quite a while. Got good spark, and fuel?
When did vehicle last run? What engine in that? Has timing been checked, as in TDC on compression stroke, and rotor at #1 plug wire? Compression checked?
Have you tried any quick start, or WD-40 sprayed down carb when trying to start, and what happened?
Checked point gap as well? Take a real close look when cranking engine over and distributor cap off, and make sure you don't see a small spark arching across from condenser wire to distributor casting or anything else. Seen a few no starts, cause by crack in condenser wire arching, or bad condenser itself.
When did this truck last run?
Standard or automatic transmission?
The reason I asked about transmission, is in case drivetrain is engaged somehow from sitting.
Maybe shifter on automatic, says it's in park, but, transmission is in gear. Seen it before.
Vehicle move easy in neutral?
Do you feel it's spinning over fast enough to start, even though it drains down quick?
When you say voltage drop at battery is only 2 volts, do you mean when cranking starter over?
What is battery voltage when cranking over. How good of shape is the cable to starter?
Have you actually taken a spark plug out, and held it with pliers or similar with wire attached, against head or rocker cover to observe actual spark is good?
Have you already tried bump starting it by pushing vehicle ?
How do the plugs look, wet with fuel, or no? What about the bump start, was it tried, or are you not sure how to do that safely?
Have you tried to see how it turns/cranks over with all plugs out yet? Should turn over faster. When it turns over now, does it turn good, then sound likes it's slowing up for a second or so, then turn over again, faster, then slow like binding again by chance?
Did you remove distributor cap, and make sure rotor is turning while cranking over?
Are you familiar with procedure for making sure timing chain and/or gears didn't jump or break?
What 's in it for spark plugs # ?
No it will be 12 volts, just checking a few other things, be right back.
hate to keep asking questions but have to. Your sure #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke when marks and rotor line up right?
Point gap is .019 ? Plugs, .035, or .030?
If you have good strong spark, and it is occurring when it should (timing), and you have compression, and you have fuel getting to cylinders, then that thing should start. If points are gaped correctly, and contacts are clean, then I'd try a new condenser.
Wow, something not making sense here. Points & plugs gapped as I noted?
Hope another can hit where I didn't, but please make sure I get final fix will ya',,,,
Curiosity is killing me. Thanks and good luck.
Only other thing that comes to mind, is to check for sure you have 12 volts at coil, then add an alternate ground from the Neg(-) on the coil, to chassis, or engine, just in case you've lost ground to ignition switch.
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I am assuming you have fuel as that is easy to determine. Just look in the carburetor and hit the gas once. If you see a spray of fuel then you have fuel. You need to see if you actually have spark at the plugs. A voltage tester will verify this. Check the coil wire to see if it is good. A continuity test with an ohm meter will verify this. If you have spark then I would suspect it is out of time especially if it is backfiring. You will need to time the engine. If it does not have spark remove the distributor cap and see if your have spark at the points. If you do the distributor cap is bad. If you do not suspect the points or condenser may be bad. Replace the points and condenser. If that does not provide spark then check the coil as it may be bad. It is just a process of elimination.
You have spark & fuel. You know it is timed correctly. Do you know for a fact that the cam is actually turning. Remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning. If not you have either a broken cam, broken cam chain, or the gear on the distributor shaft is broken. It can also be the distributor is 180 degrees off if it has been removed.
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Do you have spark at the plugs? if you do spray some starting fluid in the carb see if it wants to start if it does then a fuel problem if it doesn't a spark problem
how old is the starter motor? it may not be spinning fast enough
if it won't start with starting fluid it's a spark issue, is it out of time? coughing and spitting back through the carb?
how are the battery cables? Bigger ones might help
I am going to guess it is a 6 volt system try 12 volts if it is 12 try 24
i have in the past had to put 24 volts to a 12 volt starter to get a tight engine to spin fast enough to start once we got it started it used 12 volts. If you have a 6 volt system use 12 volts see what happens 2 guauge battery cables are required for 24 volts however
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I have spark and still will not start.
62 chevrolet with points ignition,generator and voltage regulator. Battery gets drained after trying to start. Fuel to carb ,has spark. Will not start. Voltage drop at switch is normal 1 volt.Voltage drop at battery is 2 volts while cranking.
Engine will not start
Carb is getting fuel.Spark at plugs and points.Coil wire is good. Voltage drop at switch was normal 1 volt. Voltage drop at battery was 2 volts. Inline fuse in starter circuit sometimes blows before battery is drained.How do I test for short in starter circuit?
If/How long will it crank over before it stops? Are you saying it will
crank over, but very slow? Has it been sitting quite a while. Got good
spark, and fuel
No longer than 5 minutes and cranks slow. Battery still has 12 volts left in it but acts like it is completely dead.
Compression is good.Timing is good. It has a 6 cyclinder engine.
Starting fluid did nothing.
point gap is good
lt ran once months ago for 5 minutes.Then it would not start right after that as it the battery was drained. Replace, carb,filter,points,cap,wires,condenser,starter and solenoid,voltage regulator ,coil and ignition switch
it's a manual transmission.
yes vehicle moves easy in neutral
Do you feel it's spinning over fast enough to start, even though it drains down quick?
When you say voltage drop at battery is only 2 volts, do you mean when cranking starter over?
What is battery voltage when cranking over. How good of shape is the cable to starter?
Cranks slow and voltage drop is during cranking.Voltage while cranking drops to 10 volts .Cables are new.Did not make a difference when I changed them.
Have you actually taken a spark plug out, and held it with pliers or similar with wire attached, against head or rocker cover to observe actual spark is good?
Used a spark tester.
Don't really have a way to bump start it. Too hard to get back in driveway.
has spark and fuel.Starter and solenoid are new.
haven't tried cranking it over with all the plugs out.
yes,rotor is moving while cranking
it has spark when the battery is not drained.
battery cables are bigger than original
timing mark lines up when distributor moves to number one cylinder
I am going to guess it is a 6 volt system try 12 volts if it is 12 try 24
Please clarify and ellaborate.
it has a new condenser too.
How do you check a starting circuit for any wires that are bad on a 1962 chevrolet truck?
points and plugs are gapped as noted.
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