Where do I find the ID number on a 1966 V-8 ford that I think is a 302 .

Help with id'ing my block etc - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net ...

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Dec 31, 2009 - Shouldn't that be 6015 ~ designating that it is an engine block? ... Part numbers do not change every year, they only change when the part is revised. e7te blocks used the same part number ... What would a block with casting # F1SE and E7TE heads be from? ...... 3 Attachment(s) New CCW Vortech JT-B.

The Ford 289 and 302 Engine Block

www.mre-books.com/interchange/interchange2.html

At this site you can find information about Ford small block cylinder blocks and interchangeability. ... and 302 engines were never identified as "Windsor" small-blocks by Ford Motor Company. These ... Block identification is straightforward. ... Beginning in the 1965 model year, the 289 had a .... factory casting numbers, etc.

Geeks On Cars: How to Identify Small Block Fords

you need a flywheel that in balanced with the 300

on the manifold

go here,, http://www.summitracing.com/expertadvice/storydetail/chartsandguides/Ford-Torque-Spec/ it has all the specs for 260, 289, 302,,, it sure helped me

There should be a serial number stamped on the block itself in front of the one of the heads (the one that sits back further. With this serial number you should be able to contact a dealer and find out the correct engine size. Older Fords had either a 289 cubic inch, a 302 and a 351 small block which from the outside will all look the same.

put the rocker arm on get lifter on backside of cam ajust pushrod so rocker tip is in the center of valve then measer pushrod

That is correct for hydraulic lifters.

The engine is a 200 CID straight six, the firing order is 153624...



Just pop the distributor cap and have someone crank the engine while you watch the rotor.

How I can determine which hole in the distributor is assigned to the #1 plug wire.
Pull the number one plug. Turn the engine over slowly (with a wrench) while holding your finger over the plug hole. When the air builds (a lot of) pressure you are coming up to the number one spot on the distributor. (the rotor will point to the location of the #1 hole in the distributor.)

Quick methods to disable the engine I have seen people do on the classics:
Close the points by loosening the set screw
Pull the rotor cap
Connect a wire from the coil to ground. (effectively closes the points. Can damage the coil if key is left on.)
Pull the main ignition wire
And there are some tricks at the starter solonoid involving the ballast resistor bypass that is used to provide a hotter spark while cranking. (Two little wires at the starter solonoid - one is crank the other is the ballast bypass.)

Might give those a look-see. Best of luck (rememeber rated this help).

possibly timing or number 8 exhaust valve not seating correctly. Do a compression test on no.8 to check valve seating.

The OEM carb on this model was Motorcraft, and you can get the rebuild kit from Ford or you can look up the model number either in Chilton's manual for that car, or maybe find another (kinda hard nowadays) carb in a junkyard and maybe it still has the tag. You can also research the specs for that motor on a web page of Ford or 2nd party auto parts dealers. I'd bet most mechanics over 40 years old could start you off in the right direction, too.