O.k. I have the bottom bolt off for the alternator and the belt off the wheel but i cant get to the top pully what do i do to get the top pully off to get to the top bolt for the alternator

Hi there,

Take the top bolt out of the alternator (connects to a bracket), loosen the two bottom bolts on the alternator (easiest to do when under the car), then pull the alt. as far as u can towards the front of the car. it gives just enough to get the belt off. pull the belt off the non-ridged pully first. then replace in reverse order.

Good luck!!!

1. Remove air filter to give you more room to play
2. Loosen alternator and alternator tensioner. Alternator tensioner bolts to water pump so that bolt will need to come out.
3. With the alternator loose, the main drive belt should be loose and be able to be removed, do this.
4. Loosen the tensioner bolt for the air conditioner, on the underside of the engine. Losen the nut on the air conditioner tension wheel. The tensioner wheel should now slide up and down freely, allowing removal of the air conditioner belt.
5. Remove the 4 x 10mm bolts on the water pump pulley. Remove the water pump pulley.
   
6. Remove the 4 x 10mm bolts on the camshaft pulley. This is the main pulley that all the belts connect to. There is a large 17mm bolt in the middle of this pulley that does not need to be removed. (Crankshaft Bolt).
7. The camshaft pulley should slide off, however you will probably have no clearance (because of the crankshaft bolt) to remove the pulley. The pulley has to be removed.
   
8. Place a jack under the sump, use a piece of wood to protect the sump. Jack the sump up 1/2 inch. Undo the two 14mm bolts in the engine mounts. When the two left hand engine mount bolts are out, lower the jack slowly until you can slide the camshaft pulley out.
   
9. Remove the plastic timing belt cover.
10. You should now see the timing belt, remove the timing belt tensioner pulley, being careful not to move the timing belt wheels.
11. Undo the bolts holding the water pump.
12. Water pump should come off, water will come out if you haven't drained it.
13. Scrape off gasket.
14. Install new water pump.
15. Reassemble in reverse order.

Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_replace_a_water_pump_on_a_1991_Suzuki_Swift#ixzz1BIA5PNWR

Assuming this is a XG 350, the process is lengthly.
1. Remove the RH radiator cooling fan (two 10mm bolts at the top & wiring harness connector to it).
2. Lift vehicle to remove the Right Front wheel (then remove 4 10mm bolts securing the plastic splash shield & remove it)
3. Loosen the 14mm nut on the alternator belt tensioner pully
4. Loosen the tension on the belt by rotating (counter-clockwise) the 14mm bolt at the bottom of the idler pully and remove the belt.
5. remove the pully & the idler pully (three 12 mm bolts)
6. Loosen the 14mm nuts at the top and bottom mounting points of the alternator.
7. Using a floor jack (or vehicle lift), support the engine using a jack-stand & 2x4 piece of wood under the oil pan.
8. This is tricky - lift the engine 'SLIGHTLY' to take pressure off the front engine mount - loosen the 17 mm nut on top of the mount itself and observe engine movement. If the engine moves upward 'slightly' remove the 17mm nut - if not, raise the engine slight more until you see the mounting bracket rise off the mount.
9. Remove the remaining 17mm nut (deep well socket), and two 17mm bolts and remove the engine mount bracket.
10. Here's another tricky step. Some 350's bottom Alternator bolt bores are 'SLOTTED'... some are NOT. You'll need to determine wether you'll need to REMOVE the lower bolt, or just loosen the mounting sleeve at the bottom bolt. If it's 'sleeved', I use an air hammer to loosen the sleeve. If it's not slotted, I remove the lower bolt (it's the only way to remove the alternator and pry it off).
11. At the top is an "L" bracket which uses two 12mm bolts to attach it to the engine (head). One of the two 12mm bolts is difficult to get to -- do your best to remove it because the battery cable to the alternator is in the way.
12. Disconnect the alternator wiring (battery cable & regulator harness connector)
13. Lift the engine as high as it will go & pry the alternator off its lower mounting.
14. manuver the alternator upward taking care not to damage the radiator.
15. Installation is in reverse order.
NOTE: If your XG's lower mounting point was slotted, your task is easy. If it isn't, your task now becomes more difficult as you must align the new alternator to facillitate re-insertion of the lower bolt.
PS If not slotted, I use a telliscoping magnet to help re-insert the lower bolt.

See if u kno some thing about mechanics u will find the adjustment bolts of the alternator on top u will have to loosen them & push the alternator witha rod inorder to loosen the belt & remove it & fix a new one & then again pull the alternator, will pulling it not too tight & not too loose then tighten the bolts u had loosen them

This should be the same as a car, jack the front of the car up put stands under, remove front wheels, remove bottom cover (about 7 screws), Remove powersteering pump pully 3 bolts, remove and refit new belt and P/S pully, you might get away with not having to adjust alt but if you have to youll need a 13mm spanner to undo the locking bolt then pull the alt tight (its really tight u might need a bar), once all done replace in reverse order.

first jack up car then look on the passenger side of the car to find the alternator. there is a bracket right next to the crank pully going to the alternator. it is only one bolt. undo it. there is i believe a 15 mill bolt on top of the alternator with a lock nut on the back almost out of reach from the bottom. undo the bolt and the alternator will drop down into your hands. there is the tensioner bolt to tighten the belt on the bottom of the alternator you can loosen it up to make things easier on you. when the alternator is loose pull out gently as there is one clip connection and two ground bolts on the back of the unit itslef. undo all of these and slide your alt out the front. it may be easier to remove the clutch fan on the water pump pully first. (4 nuts)

GET YOURSELF A LONG 15MM RENCH AND LOSEN THE TOP BOLT OF THE ALTERNATOR YOU CAN SEE IT RIGHT BEHIND THE TIMEING BELT COVER.
NOW JACK UP THE CAR , REMOVE THE TIRE AND CRAWL UNDERNEATH . LOOSEN UP THE BOLT ON THE BOTTOM OF THE ALTERNATOR.
ON THE BACK PART OF THE TOP ALTERNATOR BRACKET IS A TENSIONING BOLT, AND IF DODGE HASNT CHANGED THE SIZE ITS A 13MM. YOU HAVE TO GET YOUR ARM BACK HEHIND THERE AND WITH A 13MM ON A RATCHET WRENCH LOSEN THE TENSIONER UNTIL YOU CAN PUSH THE ALTERNATOR FORWARD ENOUGH TO GET THE BELT OFF OF THE CRANK SHAFT PULLY.
REPLACE THE SAME WAY YOU TOOK IT OFF.

first you need to figure out if you have an automatic tensioner or an adjustable one. so look at the pullies which ones are not accesories (ie not an alternator pully, power steering.) some pullies will just be on there own not driving anything. is this pully connected to something like this O>o <--this end is the pully.
pully mounting bolt ^ ^arm with hole for rachet
or does it look like the pully is attached to a threaded pole.

the auto adjuster need a rachet to pull back on it (because it's spring loaded) while you install the new belt.

the other need the nut on the pully loosened and the threaded pole loosened will move the pully removing tension from the belt (opposite will tension the new belt).

tighten belt until you can only twist it in half.

If you lean into the engine compartment from the passenger side to look at the pully side of the alternator, you will find a bolt (10mm I think) sort of behind the alternator and to the back left. It is sticking straight up, and you can use a nut driver or ratchet to turn it counter clockwise to loosen tension and lower the alternator. But you have to loosen the locking bolt first. When you look at the pully side of the alternator (once the plastic shroud is removed to expose the belt and pully) you will see 2 large bolts (one on the bottom right and one on the bottom left) on the alternator that hold it in place. The one on the bottom left (on the same side as the tension adjusting bolt) is the locking bolt. You will see that there is a track for it to slide along as the alternator swings up and down. If you loosen this bolt, the alternator should be free to swing down on the left side when you adjust the adjusting bolt. However, it is common for the alternator to stick even after you have loosened the locking bolt and . When I adjusted mine, I had to remove the bolt on the bottom right because my alternator had been in there so long is was stuck in place. (The alternator is supposed to pivot on the right bolt, but sometimes it sticks.)

if there is more than 1 or 2 millimetres play it the pulley then the bearing is worn out and will need to be replaced