Engine runs quiet for about a minute then rattle starts around injector pump area. if i switch of engine and wait for a minute it will start up quite again and then the same again. when the engine is reved the rattle comes in at certain revs

if I'm reading this right...
... the engine starts and dies within a few seconds.
... you jumpered the fuel pump test connector and it will keep running.
... you smell fuel after trying to re-start when it dies.

Disconnect the plug to the cold start injector. Even if you have an issue with the engine running then dying after a few seconds after doing this, if you don't smell fuel after disconnecting the cold start injector and try to restart it, the cold start time injector time switch may be failing.

Buy a can of starting fluid and have someone start the engine then spray short bursts of the fluid around all the intake fittings. If spraying the fluid in any particular area keeps the engine running, I'd start looking for leaks around that area.


It does sound like an AFM or COR issue considering it dies after a few seconds, but the fuel smell when trying to restart the engine may be a separate issue that needs corrected / isolated first.it will keep running.

... you smell fuel after trying to re-start when it dies.


Disconnect the plug to the cold start injector. Even if you have an issue with the engine running then dying after a few seconds after doing this, if you don't smell fuel after disconnecting the cold start injector and try to restart it, the cold start time injector time switch may be failing.


Buy a can of starting fluid and have someone start the engine then spray short bursts of the fluid around all the intake fittings. If spraying the fluid in any particular area keeps the engine running, I'd start looking for leaks around that area.


It does sound like an AFM or COR issue considering it dies after a few seconds, but the fuel smell when trying to restart the engine may be a separate issue that needs corrected / isolated first.

It sounds like you do have a relay problem try switching relays around that have the same part number start with the starter relay when switching the make sure the key is off each time

Check your fuel pressure. You could have a bad fuel pump, dirty injector, or leaky fuel pressure regulator. Hope this helps, James Booth

veral but my first thought was a leaky injector or fuel pressure regulator.
here is some detailed info, here goes.......
During engine operation, the fuel system is maintaining the required fuel pressure to meet the demand of the engine. When the engine is shut off , the fuel system should be at or near the same pressure level. The rate at which the fuel pressure drops can be an indication of an internal system leak (assuming no external leaking occurs) you don't have this as it would take only hrs to have a start problem.
Two most common areas of concern are the fuel injector nozzles and the pressure regulator. If the regulator valve has a poor seal, fuel will leak past the valve seat area and, since the pump is no longer running, pressure will quickly drop off or sometimes slowly. The causes for this could be a worn valve, weak spring or defective diaphragm. An internally leaking regulator can cause long crank times as it takes the pump longer to build pressure in the system.
The other potential problem area could be the fuel injector nozzles. The nozzle may be leaking due to a deposit build up on the nozzle or a worn out internal valve seat. In this case, fuel leaks directly into the engine's cylinder. Depending on the number of injectors on the engine, this could be a real problem if more than one injector is leaking fuel into the cylinders. This is a common cause of long crank times and hard starts after a short engine shut down.
One leaking and takes days to leak down.
Personally I'd start with replacing the fuel pressure regulator. Finding a leaky injector..try this. turn the key to the on position wait 5 minutes look at the injectors see if there is one that looks wet or has deposits around it.
You can also do a sniff test (not while running!) sometimes you can get a smell of gas from the leaking injector. (if the wind isn't blowing) Actually try this first before replacing fuel pressure regulator. If it starts up quicker after the 5 minute key on one of the above is the answer.
hope i didn't confuse you.
Best of luck.
Stay warm tis -5f here.

Without starting the engine turn the ignition key to the on position in a quiet area. If you here the fuel pump running for 5 seconds the engines oil pressure switches third wire is activating the pump. If not heard replace the oil sending switch

Turn the key to the ON position without starting the car
You should hear the fuel pump running for 5 seconds to prime the fuel up to the engine so it can start. If no sound is coming from the fuel tank area which can be heard with the drivers door opened in a quite area the oil sending unit on the engine needs to be looked at. If its bad the fuel pump will not prime. If the oil sending unit is good the fuel pump is at fault instead
Oil pressure to your engine achieves to close the circuit to this switch which the computer senses. When the oil pressure is up to normal standards the PCM shuts that circuit off and turns on the fuel pump relay

On that one it actually called circuit opening relay under left side of dash in fuse relay box

You may have a failing fuel pump which is having problems making and keeping fuel pressure and supply available to the injector...perform fuel system diagnostic...key on engine off will run pump for 3 seconds each key cycle...pump should sound smooth and quiet...sometimes a pump in this conditions sounds loud and squeelish

i had the same problem with my fiero the ignition module quits when it gets hot.

Check for fuel pressure when starting. Fuel pumps have a check valve in them that keep fuel in the rail at the injectors. If the check valve fails, the pump has to pump fuel all of the way up to the engine. Same thing with hot no-restarts. Fuel pump.