1988 will not start. Getting fuel, replaced coil. No fire! Fuse and fusable links look good. What's next?

Change the pick-up coil. You have to remove the distributor to do it.
Cheapest way is to buy a reman distributor and just replace it. Just remember which way the rotor is facing before you remove it.

Without a voltmeter and a wiring diagram, you're in a bit of a fix. But I would be wondering why the ignition switch isn't sending power to the coil primary positive terminal, and why it isn't causing the fuel pump to be turned on, too.
Is your check engine light on with key on? The computer should sense ignition is on and briefly turn on the fuel pump through the fuel pump relay, on just long enough to pressurize the fuel line to the injector. But no fuel or fire-you'd better start by checking if the ignition switch has power in and power out, and work your way to the coil.

Spark plug wires need to be the next step eliminated

It sounds like you may have burned out your fusable link. It's a special wire that comes off the starter solennoid and is designed to burn off in the event of an overload. DO NOT REPLACE IT WITH REGULAR WIRE, THIS IS A LEADING CAUSE OF CAR FIRES.
You will want to check for what caused the overload condition that caused the fusable link to burn out in the first place.

check the ignition module, poss near the distributer for heatsink (contact) paste on the base to draw the heat away from the module. With the engine light coming on, it should have thrown a code possibly a bypass ignition or no pulse while cranking. If so refresh the ignition module.

DOES IT HAVE POWER/ A GOOD BATTERY? IF SO CHECK & SEE IF IT IS GETTING FIRE OUT FROM THE COIL PACKS,THE QUICKEST WAY TO SEE IF IT IS FIRE OR A FUEL PROBLEM IS SPRAY A LITTLE STARTING FLUID IN THE THROTTLE BODY,& IF IT CRANKS & THEN CUTS RIGHT BACK OFF ITS A FUEL PROBLEM,FUEL PUMP FUSE,FUEL PUMP RELAY,OR FUEL PUMP,& OR FUEL FILTER, IF ITS NOT GETTING FIRE IT COULD BE A CRANK SENSOR, A CAM POSITION SENSOR,COIL PACK(S) OR A FUSE OR RELAY.

You need a cap and rotor. Rotor is probaly grounding thru distributor shaft from a carbon track.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_c087e4b7d13c0163

If you wired it yourself, note: yellow is a source wire in most wiring systems - red - direct power (battery/fuse box) - yellow, relay switch to part/component (i.e. fuel pump{electric}); then ground.
Ground, if self-wired, can be grounded to the frame,body, any metal.

If the wiring is not the issue, replace the fuel pump relay, if haven't already. If this is not the problem, or has been replaced already, you may need to replace the fuel pump. NOTE: If this is the Ford e F250,350 etc. it may have a secondary fuel pump which would be located on the driver side mounted to the frame just behind the engine. I owned a 90 F250, 2WD, and no such part was installed. At least not there.

I had a similar issue with my truck, would start, sometimes run for a while and die, would drive, then randomly die while driving -

Check the fusable link next to the battery and ensure it is securely locked together - it is a twist and pull mechanism (plastic). This was the issue with mine. I tore the front of my engine apart thinking it was a timing issue, just to find out 4-5 times of doing that, that it was the fusable link - i too, replaced the fuel pump relay, fuse etc. -- check this first as it may be the cause (if carburated, also check all your plugs, wires, cap and rotor - if not carburated, have the coil packs tested - NOTE: the modular (coil packs sit/bolt to this) cannot be tested - look for bubbles, or sign of "boiled" sections. If such marking exist, it needs replaced. Have the coil packs tested anyway just to be sure. If they all test positive, your good to go - if not, replace as need - (also be suire to mark each one in the order they come off ) this doesn't really make any difference when you put it back together, however, this will let you know, in the event the modular is good, (no boils or bubbles etc) ; you will be able to determine which side (if three, left,middle,right) was the bad coil pack. Mark each, from left to right, as 1,2,3, or A,B,C - or however you deem suitable. This will be useful for reference in possible future occurrances.

I hope this information is helpful and you get your vehicle running smoothly. I understand your frustration with this particular issue, as it took me 2-3 months before I realized that the fusable link was the issue - had spent 3-4 hundred dollars in parts ---

Please let me know if I can be of any further assistance. Thank you,

carsandcomps
Guru, fixya.com

hey did you check your fuel filter?check your fuse box for bad fuse. check your coil see if you have fire then see if your getting fire from your distrib.let me now how you make out. have nice day

they can test your ECM (under the coil pack) at your local parts store