The idle is not within spec for a grand caravan

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Torque Specifcations - MAHLE Aftermarket

https://www.mahle-aftermarket.com > media > torque3
PDF
Engine Model Year. Rod Torque. Main Torque. Cylinder Head Bolt Torque. CASE. 2.4. 148. 61-66. 45-50 FT/LBS. 90-100 FT/LBS. 60-65 FT/LBS. CASE. 2.4.
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you can get guide from many sites.. i know few like one is https://www.reliable-store.com/
error codes/ fault codes, wiring diagrams, schematic diagrams, torque specs, engine info, switches functioning, assemble, disassembly, complete refurbish, repair, installation every single thing is covered
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you can get guide from many sites.. i know few
like reliable-store
error codes/ fault codes, wiring diagrams, schematic diagrams, torque specs, engine info, switches functioning, assemble, disassembly, complete refurbish, repair, installation every single thing is covered
within seconds u can get the access and it's totally illustrative complete

That sounds normal. There would be specifications for it that you should check, but that sounds pretty normal. The specs probably show a pressure for idle at normal operating temperature, and another figure at a specified engine rpm. Or it may just have one spec at a certain rpm.

I'm sure your check engine light is on try....
https://www.autozone.com/landing/page.jsp?name=top-five-reasons-check-engine-light

Very likely a low fuel pressure problem. Have you changed the fuel filter? Check the fuel pressure against vehicle spec's while running at idle and again at about 3000 RPM. Also check pressure with key on/engine off. If you lose pressure between idle and higher RPM's you probably have a weak fuel pump. Same goes for if you lose pressure after initial key on/engine off. You could also have a problem with a weak ignition coil, spark plug wires or spark plugs but not as likely.

Is the check engine light on? Have you run a fault code test? Is the fuel pressure within specs under load? Is the exhaust system restricted and has excessive backpressure?

I would suspect that you have a weak or failing oil pump, however before condemning the pump I would do a physical oil pressure check with a gauge. Oil pumps are not easy to replace so lets make sure it is the problem before replacing it. For reference yours can be done with the motor in the vehicle.

Physical Pressure Test:

This may require you to tuck a oil pressure gauge under the driver side wiper arm and go for a short drive to make the situation replicate. Depending on how you hook up the gauge (in place of oil pressure switch) the light will be on full time during the testing and this is ok. If you can replicate this symptom that you are reporting in the drive way in gear it is desirable as you can better read the gauge.

The oil pressure should be:

3.0L = Oil pressure should be 6 PSI at idle and 35-75 psi at 3,000 rpm with engine at normal operating temperature.

3.3L = Oil pressure should be 5 psi at idle and 30-80 psi at 3,000 rpm with engine at normal operating temperature.

You see that there is a large "in spec" region for the 3,000 rpm range as listed. I would look for the pressure to be at the higher end of the scale and the idle pressure to be right in spec. If any of these pressures are low I would suggest changing the oil pump.

If your motor is one that I have not listed here please comment back and I will provide the appropriate spec per the motor in your van.

idle adjustment located on carb, is this a new problem? may not be throttle position or idle eroor

It sounds like the last gear in your transmission may not be engaging. Caravans are actually famous for tranny problems. Furthermore, be sure to check your transmission fluid while your vehicle is idling. That ensures accuracy. But you may have to get someone to physically look at it to ensure your problem gets solved. Kind of risky diagnosing something so big through typing.