Question about 1994 Ford Ranger Supercab

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No clutch pedal been bleeding it for 3 days. i have replaced the slave cylinder, clutch and clutch master cylinder. its a 1994 ford ranger 2.3L 5speed

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These are notorius for clutch bleeding problems, there is no good answer other than to keep pumping that pedal, eventually it will bleed out

Posted on Dec 06, 2009

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On a Ford Ranger you need to have the clutch master cylinder facing up when you are looking at it mounted on the vechile it is pointing down you need to have it facing up and also have a bleeding tool I went out and bought a POhoenix Injector which makes it real easy and you can do it buy your self. Good luck

Posted on Dec 06, 2009

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If you will disconnect your clutch line from the transmission (pressing the quick connector sleeve) and then have someone pump the brakes and then poke something in the end of the line to relieve the pressure and bleed it that way. Do this until the pedal is strong. Then connect the line up and bleed through the bleeder valve on the transmission. Keep an eye on the resevoir. You might want to take the rubber piece out and fill it to the top. This is the only way I have been able to get two of these new clutches to bleed.

Posted on Aug 18, 2010

  • Bama_Ranger Aug 18, 2010

    If this doesn't work, you will need to remove the clutch master cylinder and reservoir assembly and bleed it form outside the truck. Aim the master cylinder upwards while someone holds the reservoir and pump the cylinder with a screwdriver. The air will run up and out of the reservoir. Also, you may want to pump and release the valve that connects to the slave cylinder too.

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Usely the lines dry rot easy on these vehicles check them

Posted on Dec 06, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

kf4rwe

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SOURCE: replaced clutch & slave cylinder on 2001 ford ranger can't bleed

Do a web search on it, and it will tell you the proper way to bleed it.

Posted on Dec 06, 2008

Anonymous

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SOURCE: replaced slave cylinder 2004 ford ranger 4x4 still no pedal

I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.

Posted on Dec 22, 2008

Anonymous

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SOURCE: i have A 1998 FORD RANGER EXT. CAB W/ 6 CYL.- 4.0

Take the top off the master cyl and slowly very slow push in on the clutch and watch for any bubbles comming up.Replace the top and pump pressure and bleed at the master direct by using the lines for bleeders.

Posted on Aug 13, 2009

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Take the top off the master cyl and slowly very slow push in on the clutch and watch for any bubbles comming up.Replace the top and pump pressure and bleed at the master direct by using the lines for bleeders.

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Does the clutch have the outer clutch slave or is it inside the clutch plate area, to know look on the left or right side for a clutch slave cylinder if it does not have one it's internal and a pain. If it has an out side one fill the master reservoir then go under the truck and crack open the bleed valve on the cylinder have someone pres the clutch pedal all the way down and hold it to the floor, then close bleed valve then allow the clutch back up and have them push it to the floor open bleed valve and close when all air comes out do this till the arm moves it's full travel about 2 inches. And if its one with a master inside the transmission it has to be power bleed and normally you can’t do it without pulling the transmission.

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1 Answer

We are not getting pedal on the clutch after bleeding the slave


Here is your issue, I have an '03 with the same tranny, the problem is most likely the slave cylinder which requires a pull of the transmission the part is 50 bucks and I did this in about 10 hours on my back, by myself and just a little swearing. I replaced the whole thing the pressure plate, clutch disk and slave cylinder as I was not going to do this again.
The other side of the issue is the master cylinder in which I find if the Slave is bad the master is also bad, hence the pedal dropping to the floor.
The bleed is simple it is a gravity bleed. Loosen the bleeder and let it run. then after you verify there si no air you can pump up the master and it should work fine.
this is a poorly designed system as the slave cylinder on the mitsubishi tranny is inside the bell housing.. good Luck

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