1991 Peugeot 405 Logo
Anonymous Posted on Dec 05, 2009

Pressure buildup in cooling circuit of my xantia 1,9 diesel. no heated air inside car bubbles in radiator when lid turned open. no temperature reading on instrument on dashboard french car citroen xantia 1,9 diesel from 1994 (wasn't in the list so i entered peugeot)

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  • Posted on Dec 05, 2009
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Combustion gas bubbles in the radiator coolant indicates a blown head gasket.
Take it to a radiator shop and get a combustion gas test to confirm.
Most likely will need cylinder head removed for inspection and replacement gasket fitted.
Absence of temperarure indication on dashboard may be due to electrical problem - check connections to temperature sensor etc.

Testimonial: "thanks for your comment, and so quickly. i used this as a second opinion (when to trust a used car and garage keeper, right?)"

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  • Posted on Dec 19, 2009
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I also had this problem and all it was , was the heater matrix was blocked, disconnect the 2 pipes and connect it to a hose pipe and blow it out

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  • Posted on Dec 06, 2009
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Just a little comment to add, Yes it will be head gasket but while you have the head off get it checked, skimmed and pressure tested especially for diesels, usually about £40 - £70 but well worth it. Saves a lot more hassle in the long run. "Do it Once, Do it Right!" is my moto. Good luck.

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3helpful
2answers

Air pockets in radiator

Air can be purged. While your engine is cool remove radiator and reservoir caps. Place funnel in radiator. Turn heat to the highest position and start vehicle. Add coolant to radiator as needed while vehicle warms up. You should see bubbles coming out of radiator. Fill reservoir to between cold and hot fill lines. Replace caps when bubbling stops but before coolant temperature reaches normal operating temperature. Never remove the radiator cap until engine has fully cooled down.
tip

How to burp your cooling system after replacing parts (works for ALL cars)

There's a common misconception that if part of a car's cooling system fails, the failing part can be replaced, the system closed up, fluid topped off, and the car will be ready to go. Many people have overheating problems, replace the offending component (thermostat, radiator, etc), top off the fluid, and then wonder why they still overheat.

This is because when the cooling system (which operates as a sealed system) is opened up and new components are installed, air bubbles become trapped in the system when it's reassembled. Coolant is added, but the bubbles displace some of the system's volume and become trapped in the cooling system.

The way to alleviate the problem is to burp the cooling system. It's easy to do, and only takes half an hour to an hour. It can be done at home very easily.

The first step is to reassemble the system after you replace whatever components are failing. Tighten all clamps, connect all hoses, and then fill the radiator or coolant holding tank, and fill the overflow reservoir to the indicated level (there's a small hose that typically runs from the radiator flange where the cap is positioned, over to the overflow container). Find the thermostat (trace the lower radiator hose back to the engine from the radiator - where it attaches to the engine is either exactly where, or very near, the location of the thermostat). Jack up the car so that the thermostat is pointed upward (the hose would be attaching at a downward angle). Now start the car.

You jack it up in this way so that the thermostat points upward. The thermostat will open downward in this position. Watch your temperature gauge as it rises to, and then beyond, the normal operating temperature. If it is rising very slowly, you can rev the engine, or hold it at 2000 RPM or so, to help build the heat. Eventually the engine will begin to heat up beyond normal and the gauge will climb. This is what you want. Allow it to climb to somewhere between 2/3 and 3/4 of the way to a full overheat, and then shut the engine off. Allow it to cool, and then CAREFULLY open the radiator cap. You'll hear a purge of pressure, and will probably see bubbling in the overflow container. Check the level of the coolant in the overflow and the radiator, top them off as needed, and repeat this procedure. Keep doing so until the car no longer overheats. Now, take it for a drive around the block a few times, and see if it overheats then (sometimes putting the engine under load will cause it to overheat even when it won't while sitting in the driveway). If it does not overheat, you are done. If it does, pull over, turn off the engine, and turn on the heat full blast (this will extract heat from the engine). Get the car home and burp it again.

Why are you doing this? Here's why. Those air bubbles in the system that I mentioned are the root of your evil. When you start the engine, the water pump spins and circulates the coolant (and air bubbles) throughout the engine. At some point, those bubbles come to the thermostat, which stays closed until the car gets to a certain temperature, at which point it opens and allows the coolant to go to the radiator to cool off. When the air bubbles get to the closed thermostat, they get stuck. In turn, having the bubbles pinned against the back side of the thermostat keeps it from opening since the system is pressurized and the thermostat can't open against the pressure of the bubbles. This is why the car begins to overheat. By waiting until you are most of the way to a full overheat, you get as many bubbles stuck there as possible.

Once you allow the car to cool enough that the coolant won't explode out of the radiator when you open the cap, you can open it. This relieves the pressure in the cooling system and allows the thermostat to open. The bubbles travel through the thermostat and hose to the radiator, burble their way to the top, and "burp" out of the cap's opening. With the bubbles out, the coolant level drops some (which is why the coolant as to be topped off), and you repeat the process since the coolant doesn't always follow the same pathway. You want to be sure that all the bubbles are removed from the system, so you do this a few times.

Hopefully this will help you with overheating problems and with diagnosing future issues. I know this is listed under Chevy cars, but that is only because I had to select something, and those are commonly owned cars. This process is important on ANY car, regardless of manufacturer or engine.
0helpful
2answers

My 2004 ford freestar has no heat. how do I add antifreeze or check if it is the thermostat

When the engine is cool, take off the radiator cap and add fluid till full. Also add coolant to the overflow tank if needed
To check the thermostat, leave the radiator cap off, turn heater controls to high heat, and start the engine and run it till at operating temperature (this is to remove air from the system.) Coolant level should drop a bit when the thermostat opens, so you may need to add more. Replace rad. cap when engine is warmed up.
The only way the thermostat would cause no heat is if it were stuck open. So feel the upper radiator hose as the engine warms up. It will be cold or cool till engine starts to warm up-should take about 10-15 minutes, and then the thermostat should start opening, and the upper hose will start getting hot. If the engine takes a long time to warm up, like 30 minutes, the thermostat may be stuck open, needing replacement. If all seems good, check the actuator doors (temperature blend door) on the heater case. The doors have to open properly to let air from the blower motor to pass across the heater core, and then out the vents.
Good luck. If the coolant level was low, that was likely the problem.
0helpful
1answer

I'm from Argentina, I speak Spanish translator google I referred only to write in English!. I have a Toyota Previa LE 1991. I had to change the water radiator , having to empty all water from the...

OK this is not be a big problem. You have air in your coolant system. The temperature sensor is not immersed in coolant but is in an air pocket. When the engine is cool remove the coolant filler cap. Inside the car switch the heater controls to maximum. Switch the engine on. As the engine gets warmer squeeze the top rubber pipe between the engine and the radiator. Add more coolant to the filler cap to replace the air bubbles when they are expelled. When the engine is near operating temperature screw the coolant cap on tightly. Keep running the engine and keep squeezing the rubber pipes occasionally to help any air bubbles move. Make sure that the bottom rubber hose from the radiator back to the engine gets hot. Ensure that the fan for the radiator is running. Only when you are sure that no more air is in the system do you switch the car interior heater off. Check the coolant level when the engine has again cooled down and add more coolant if it looks low.
0helpful
1answer

CAR CONTINUES TOO RUN HOT AFTER REPLACING WATER PUMP, THERMOSTAT, AND RADIATOR, BEEN TOLD IT MAY HAVE AIR BLOCKAGE, DON'T THINK IT HAS A CRACKED HEAD OR BLOCK, DOES NOT LEAK WATER, NO WATER IN OIL, OR...

Try this.

With the engine cool remove the radiator cap. Now start the engine and let it warm up to the point where the thermostat opens. You can usually tell when this happens by checking the temperature of the upper radiator hose, and the coolant level in the radiator. It will start getting a lot hotter quickly when it does and the coolant level should drop.

While the engine is warming up, watch the coolant in the radiator for air bubbles. Fill up the radiator as needed while continuing to watch the coolant level. Having the radiator cap off while doing this allows the trapped air to escape more easily. If you do have a large air blockage then when the thermostat opens you should see a large drop in the coolant level. You want to keep the Radiator full. Once the air bubbles seem to have stopped you can replace the radiator cap.

You may have to repeat the process a couple times if there is a large amount of air trapped in multiple pockets.

A cracked head or block you can usually diagnose as there will be a lot of small bubbles coming out constantly while the engine is warming up, and even more bubbles if you rev the engine higher as the compressed air/fuel will be forced into the cooling system.
2helpful
2answers

2005 sentra 1.8 no heat... checked level.. changed termostat.. blew outlines.. took lines off heater core blew thru them nothing came out but water we used. control on dash from defroster to blowing on...

Hi, the likely problem is a bubble forming in the system, possibly due to a head gasket failure.

Try stopping on a steep incline--does the heater stay warm? If yes, what you have is an air bubble that hangs at the heater hose until pressure from the water pump blows thru it as the engine speeds up. Park on an incline, open the radiator cap, run the engine until the thermostat is open, turn the heater on, crack open any/all bleed ports to release any trapped air, and fill the radiator to the neck. Wait until the level stops dropping and make sure bubbles don't continue to come up. If they do, you may have a blown head gasket that will keep forming these bubbles until you change the gasket.

1helpful
2answers

I have a 2004 Kia Sedona I have replaced the theromostat the fans are comeing on but still overheats I havent had any problems untill yesterday

After replaceing the thermostat,dont fill the radiator or top it off, untill the engine warms up and the thermostate opens, so the system will circulate.From the top, through the radiator, and into the waterpump inlet. And back to the heads, and the intake, cooling and purgining out all the air,or there will be an air pocket. And the motor will over heat,from lack of or the proper amount of coolant, and not enough circulation,for cooling.
4helpful
1answer

Coolant filling up overflow bottle and not returning Started intermittently No coolant leaks Changed Hoses Cap Thermostat Cooling system has always had good quality coolant and is clean inside...

You may need to ask AAA to put a radiator pressure tester on the resevoir bottle and pump it up to operating pressure(Pressure cap rating) and see if it over pressurises while it is running at operating temp,rev engine up and down and watch what the testers pressure readings do,it should move up and down in sync with the water pump.If the pressure keeps building i would have to believe that combustion chamber gases are over pressurising your cooling system.Also test the pressure cap is functioning within factory specs.
1helpful
1answer

Over heating

Yep, you have to burp the radiator. Jack up the car so that the radiator cap is elevated. With the coolant topped off, start the car and let it run until it's about 3/4 of the way to overheating. Then shut it down and go have a beer. When it cools off enough to safely open the radiator cap, do so, and any air trapped in the system will bleed out.

What you're doing is circulating the coolant and the air bubbles inside. The bubbles get lodged behind the thermostat and stay there, keeping it from opening (this causes the car to heat up). When you later pop the cap off the radiator, the pressure is vented from the system, the thermostat opens, and the bubbles pass through. They'll work their way to the radiator (since you've got it elevated) and pop out the open cap opening.

Your coolant level will likely drop somewhat after doing this, as the air bubbles will be gone and the space they took up in the system is now available. You may need to add a little more coolant, so top if off (with the car back on the ground) and recap the radiator, fill the overflow to the marked point on the tank, and you're good to go.
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