Check engine light is on, a green light below the check engine light goes off and on intermittently, the fog lights don't work, there seems to be a short between the radio and the steering wheel. The clock doesn't show up, but the radio works when the steering wheel is moved up or down.

check fuse--relay--switch-bulbs==use a meter to test switch connectors--wiring--sockets

a fuse number 24,,,
The following specifications are for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique manufactured throughout 1995-2000.
Fuses Rating Color Circuit Engine bay fuse box 1 80 Black Power supply to main fuse box 2 60 Yellow Radiator fan 3 60 Yellow ABS 4 20 Yellow Daytime running lights 5 30 Light green Fog lamp 6 30 Light green Not used 7 30 Light green ABS 8 30 Light green Air pump 9 20 Light bue PCM module 10 20 Light bue Ignition switch 11 3 Violet PCM memory 12 15 Light bue Horn & hazard flasher 13 15 Light bue Oxygen sensor 14 15 Light bue Fuel pump 15 10 Red Right-hand low beam Passenger compartment fuse box 16 10 Red Left-hand low beam 17 10 Red Right-hand high beam 18 10 Red Left-hand high beam 19 7.5 Brown Heated door mirrors 20 10 Black Windshield wipers 21 30 Light green Electric windows 22 7.5 Brown ABS 23 15 Light bue Reverse lights 24 15 Light bue Brake lights 25 20 Yellow Door locks 26 20 Yellow Main light 27 15 Light bue Cigarette lighter 28 30 Light green Power seats 29 30 Light green Heated rear window 30 7.5 Brown Engine management 31 7.5 Brown Instrument pannel lights 32 7.5 Brown Radio 33 7.5 Brown Front and rear sidelights (left) 34 7.5 Brown Interior lighting & clock 35 7.5 Brown Front and rear sidelights (right) 36 30 Light green Air bag 37 30 Light green Heated blower 38 Unused Relays Color Circuit Location Engine bay fuse box R1 Green Daytime running lights (Canada) R2 Black Radiator fan (high speed) R3 Blue AC cut-out R4 Brown AC clutch R5 Dark green Radiator fan (low speed) R6 Yellow Starter R7 Brown Horns R8 Brown Fuel pump R9 White Low beam headlights R10 White High beam headlights R11 Brown PCM power supply Passenger compartment fuse box R12 White Interior and courtesy lights R13 Yellow Heated rear window R14 Yellow Heated blower R15 Green Windshield wiper motor R16 Black Ignition R17 Unused R18 Black One touch window switch Driver's door R19 Blue Cruise control cut-off Central fuse box bracket R20 Unused R21 Unused R22 White Fog lights Interface module bracket R23 Black Turn signals Steering column R24 White Left-hand flasher Door lock module bracket R25 White Right-hand flasher Door lock module bracket R26 Unused Bulbs / Lights Wattage Type Low beam headlamp 55 9006 Halogen High beam headlamp 55 9005 Halogen Parking / Side light 5 2357A Wedge Front turn signal 21 2357A Bayonet Rear turn signal 21 1157 Bayonet Tail light 21 1157 Bayonet Stop light 21 1157 Bayonet High mount stop light 5 2723 Bayonet Fog/Driving light 55 893 Halogen License plate 5 6418 Festoon Reverse light 21 1156 Bayonet Front sidemarker 5 2357A Wedge Glove box Map light 5 64111 Wedge Dome light 10 6411 Feston Step/Courtesy light Trunk/Cargo area Engine compartment 10 89 Wedge Instrument-general Automatic trans indicator

check the bulbs.

when light comes I would check the code then will know more,and try to fix.fuel filter,coils.

Both fuse and relay are located in engine compartment fusebox.
Click the link below to go through fuse box diagram:----

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2013/02/nissan-fog-lamp-relay-and-fuse-box.html

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This will help.
Thanks.

Its all attached by clips and screws.Nothing much special.But its all about the procedure.Dont forget the mark the position , location of the screws you remove, so while refitting you don't face any problemTo replace fog light bulb or to replace replace complete fog light unit, click this link below:--- http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/07/how-to-replace-left-front-fog-light.html ---------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Didn't need a switch after all. Seems like a wire had gotten pinched when a headlight was replaced. Took 4 years for the wire to start causing problems and my backyard mechanic found the problem after only blowing two switches. In the search for a reasonably priced multifunction switch, I found out that the ones FOR cars with fogs lights were cheaper than those without fog lamps. That pricing scheme seemed backwards to me -- more switch function costing less than fewer switch functions - but evidently more cars are evidently equipped to have fog lights than those equipped without fog lights.

It's definitely the switch...I bought two of 'em so far...known bug. I don't use the fog lights as much anymore , but the "Airtex" oem equivalent switch from Rockauto seems to be holding up well. If you dissamble your broke switch you'll probably see evidence that it is beginning to melt and theres alot, maybe too much, grease, which may or may not have been the cause of the bad, heating contacts inside switch.
If I remember right, even though the foglights have a relay there is still full amperage going through the switch or something....don't qoute me on that last statement.

check fuse #7 in the fuse block inside the vehicle and fuse #25 in the fuse block under the hood...more than likely you blew one of these fuses when it sparked. as for the drivers side being inop once you replace the blown fuse if you have a test light check for voltage at the bulb connector...the light assembly itself may be bad

The lower Fog lights to my 2003 Chrysler Sebring Conv LXi do not work. And I do not have an owners manual to look at what fuse is what in the relay center near the engine. There are bulbs there in tact on the front ground effects. But they do not come on ever.