Engine will turn over but not start i have checked crank and cam sensors replaced the fuel rail and crank sensor, has plenty of fuel to injectors checked the fuses in the fuse panel. what else could it be?

Injector pulse? spark? if not Scan engine computer for any DTC's. If no communication then a shorted sensor if likely. If TDC comes up for cam or crank sensor fault they are also the likely cause.

run fault codes as there is a problem sensor in the system. volts at the injector is suspect as the voltage will vary with the fuel requirement.

auto shutoff relay controls both fuel and fire..the parts store can tell you for sure..

fuel pump. check injector rail fuel line valve for pressure.

Either the injectors are incapable of spraying fuel or they aren't receiving an electrical pulse. That might be because of faulty wiring/connections or a faulty ECU or it could be the ECU hasn't enough information in order to send a pulse, again because of faulty wiring or connections, the crank sensor or perhaps that is what the security immobiliser does when it is armed.

Check for an injector pulse with an oscilloscope or noid light.

Crank sensor is primarily for the spark and the cam sensor is for fuel management, crank/cam correlation for misfire purposes I would also change the wires.

HI, ok lets address each issue as your asked 1. Timing belt: since this engine uses a timing chain and it runs fine for the most part its unlikely to be the cause. 2. Ignition module: well the module not only sends the signal for spark timing but it also uses another signal for the fuel injectors. Since these ignition modules are very sensitive to heat the module may fail only when it is hot. So yes it could be the ignition module. 3. A fuel problem: Because you have fuel that sprays a foot high does not mean it has proper pressure. think of it as a garden hose the water flows out the end of the hose normally but when you place your thumb over the hose it squirts harder. You are trying to release the fuel from a much larger fuel rail threw a small shrader valve. Electric fuel pumps are little motors turning at very high rpms. when they get hot after use they draw more amperage and produce less volume and pressure. So yes fuel could be the issue. 3. Injectors clogged: Your right unlikely but you may want to do a resistance check of the injectors while cold then one while hot. You may find even one shorting out after it gets hot and this will shut down the whole bank of them. 4. Crank sensor: the crank sensor sends a pulse to the DIS module the ECM then controls the demand for fuel and timing. These crank sensors are prone to cracking and letting oil wick into the sensor apply heat and it can raise the resistance and make the sensor fail till it cools. So yes the crank sensor can cause this type of no start. 5. Cam sensor: no this model 3.1 did not use a cam sensor. 6. Intake gaskets: this would have to be one very large leak when hot. you could try pouring oil over the intake gasket area while cranking and see if it fires over. The oil is should be heavy and thick enough to seal it for a short time or show where it sucks it in. a few things you over looked are the importance that the temp sensor and TPS sensor play during a hot start. If the ECM thinks that the engine is cold it uses injector pulse like a choke on a carburetor. Good luck on your adventure I hope this has helped.

Replace the cam sensor

Are you sure you have correct timing? its definetly a fule problem, if timing is good then turn your key to the on position and try to listin for the fule pump to prime. While the key is in on position go to fuel rail, there is a valve on fule rail called sharader valve. Get a small screw driver and press valve in to check if car has fule pressure. if pressure is present then it is incorrect timing or possible bad cam sensor.

Crank sensor!