At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It could have bad wire connection to the alternator, When the car runs try disconnecting the battery if it stays running the alternator is good and the wiring is good. If it dies then the alternator or the wiring is bad.
From your description it sounds like the starter is faulty or there is a dirty / loose / corroded connection between battery / starter relay / starter.
Well it is quite simple, start when the motor is cold,and undo the hose clamps, then remove the pipe, it will be quite tight but do not use a screwdriver to try and remove it, it could be damaged. Remove the two bolts holding the thermostat casing and remove, remove the thermostat and replace in same position and work your way back as you started. remember to replace the gasket or use gasket sealant to avoid leaks. (when removing the thermostat check how it comes out and fit new in same position )
Removing the rear-mounted alternator on early 1990s Civics and CRX can
be frustrating. After removing the upper adjusting bracket bolt and the
lower pivot bolt, the alternator can *almost* come out the top and
almost fits behind the intake manifold.
The only easy exit path is out the left wheel well. Side access
requires removing the wheel and unfastening three of the plastic
retainers holding the upper end of the splash guard. But even this
doesn't provide quite enough room. You need to tuck the alternator back
under the intake, unbolt the lower alternator bracket (two bolts, 14mm
socket) before the alternator can be removed.
There are usually two mounting bolts on an alternator. One of them is long and goes through into the engine block. The other one is usually a short bolt the goes into a tensioning bracket that helps you tighten the belt. Disconnect the positive battery cable before you begin work. If you don't do this you could short out the electrical system while working and cause some damage. Loosen the bolts a little and by pushing sideways you can loosen the alternator belt enough to remove it. Inspect it for cracks and replace if necessary. Remove the wire connectors from the back of the alternator. Remove the bolts from the alternator, short one first. Reverse this process to install the new alternator. When the wires are reconnected and the bolts inserted put the fan belt back on and find something to pry on the alternator with to tension the fan belt till it's tight. Tighten the bolts, reattach battery cable and you're done.
check the drive belt and make sure no vacuum lines got knocked off especially the one behind the throttle body and put some STP in the gas tank make sure it has at least a half a tank of gas when adding
this instruction is general for all vehicles. i am sorry that i do not have particularly for your 2001 chrysler PT cruiser.
first, identify the alternator. remove the fan belt on the alternator, label and remove all wires that is attached to it. remove all bolts that is holding it. remove the old alternator.
IS THIS A QUESTION?
×