I cannot seem to find the esc wire on my 98 chevy

Disconnect the four wire connector at the distributor

Where exactly are these wire connectors? Are they in a wheel arch, behind a light fitting, in the engine bay? The location will help figure it out.

locate the tan wire with black stripe under the dash on the passenger side it should be taped to the harness unplug the inline connector and esc will be disabled for setting the timing

Some models require you to unplug the ESC connector which is a brown and black wire around the firewall or distributor.
Others require you to put the computer in Test mode like you were checking for trouble codes.
There should be a sticker on the hood or radiator support giving you instructions for your model.

I would check the circuits from the ignition switch next. Sounds like not everything is getting power from the key.

IT MAY BE GM'S DESIGN CAUSING THE PROBLEM. THE MULTI-WIRE CONNECTOR THAT PLUGS ONTO THE BACK OF THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER IS MOUNTED IN THE PLASTIC HOUSING BEHIND THE CLUSTER. SOMETIMES THE CLUSTER DOESN'T GO IN THE DASH QUITE FAR ENOUGH TO MAKE A PROPER CONNECTION, FOR SOME OF THE THINGS IN THE CLUSTER TO WORK PROPERLY. YOU WILL NEED TO PULL THE CLUSTER OUT TO SEE IF THAT SEEMS TO BE THE PROBLEM. WHEN YOU GET THE CLUSTER LOOSE & STILL IN THE DASH, TURN ON THE IGNITION SWITCH & WIGGLE THE CLUSTER & SEE IF THE FUEL GA. TRIES TO MOVE. IF IT MOVES YOU WILL NEED TO PUT RUBBER BANDS OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT IN BEHIND THE CONNECTOR TO BRING IT TOWARD THE CLUSTER A LITTLE MORE.

on passengers side behind tire. disconnect battery, remove two wire connectors on starter, unbolt two starter bolts. New starter sometimes comes with wires attatched, cut old wires leaving lots of excess and splice wires together . Crimp connectors are usually heat shrinks. Be sure to heat them to avaiod moisture from getting into connection.

bad relay or a bad wire

It's definitely the switch...I bought two of 'em so far...known bug. I don't use the fog lights as much anymore , but the "Airtex" oem equivalent switch from Rockauto seems to be holding up well. If you dissamble your broke switch you'll probably see evidence that it is beginning to melt and theres alot, maybe too much, grease, which may or may not have been the cause of the bad, heating contacts inside switch.
If I remember right, even though the foglights have a relay there is still full amperage going through the switch or something....don't qoute me on that last statement.

If you take the control assembly out of the dash and look behind it, the connector has a black wire in position D7 (little letters and numbers are printed on the connector). This wire will have a connector on it, pull this connector apart and your display will now be in *F