Rebuilt the head, replaced the timing belt. Car runs, but idles high. Does anyone know the procedure to reset the distributor timing?

This is known as 'dieseling'. The most common causes are

-idle speed set too high

-engine operating too hot (faulty thermostat, faulty temp sender, leaky head gasket)

engine timing is out (loose distributor clamp, worn timing belt, faulty timing belt tensioner)

-

Does it run a distributor or coil pack?

92
which G16 engine, 8valve 16v? black top or silver top
the 16v shouts, electronic EFI on top.

i bet you did classic error #1, never replacing the cam belt
it slips and you see spark timing way off and then retime the distrib.
now its double bad.(wrong)

No tools?
compression, over 150PSI ? wide open throttle time 4?
if that is good the belt has not slipped yet.
the open hood, look up, see that EPA sticker there with spark timing
in clear print, now set the timing using the timing freeze jumper.
to spec. using a real tool called a timing light.
btw, timing never drifts off, unless the belt is bad. or someone guessed.
that is what is first. and fueling is last.
The ECu controls timing all the time, setting it wrong is one of the
biggest lies you can input to any ECU on any car.
it assumes its correct and advances from there. so dont set it wrong.

tell 8v/16v engine and help is 100x better. i promise.

Tbelt
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/tbelt-index.html

Dizzy timing, 101
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/16v-procedure.html

the EGR must not leak or the engine will stall. sitting advance to hide
bad EGR is overthe top wrong.

the tbelt fast test ,
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/sneak-a-peek.html

the spark timing freeze jumper
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/IGN-FREEZE.HTML


bogging.
does it have full power up hills. WOT?
WOT power is 100% ok so........
is the hesitation only for an instant, then recovers.
yes, bad TPS.
or TPS idle switch bad or calibrated wrong.
or needs the 60k mile tuneup. spark /filters /belt (cam)

the bog page. links to all possible

http://www.fixkick.com/power-index.html


is the crank pulley 17mm head bolt , at 94ft/lbs
if not it will mangle the key way fast. end of life , crankshaft.
see TSB on that. on the tbelt pages.

the timing has to be off by a tooth on the belt pulley check it again..

After you replaced the timing belt did you reset the timing with a timing light? That needs to be done for your engine to work properly.

you will distroy the engine if you continue to let this noise happen.
the timing must be retarded to get the ping out if its that bad.
most of the time if its just a little bit though filling the tank with super unleaded will take out the noise.
the distributer must be loosend and turned in the correct way to ****** the timing and the idle must be put back up to compensate.
the distributer is the ignition timing.
the other thing that could have happend is the timing may have jumped time on the timing belt itself.this is a complely different timing.
this timing is valve timing.
the distributer is ignition timing.
when the distributer is turned you are changing the ignition timing .
you say in your text and i quote .

The service tech only adjusted the distributor fas far as he could to lower the idle.

a tech should never be turning the distributer to lower the idle nor should this be explained in any way to the customer.

if a tech says he dosent understand something stop them rightaway and get your car out of there or get someone else to talk to .
10 times out of 10 if the tech dosnet get it the car wont get it either.
have a competent service tech test and conferm the timing belt or chain timing .

keep me posted
[email protected]

thank you
jm

tweak the distributor your firing timing mite be out a bit

The part that typically fails in the distributor of the 1993 and 1994Probe GTs is called the ignitor. The ignitors fail due to the highheat found in the cramped PGT engine compartment. Many rebuiltdistributors fail because they are rebuilt from distributors that haveignitors that have failed under high temperture conditions. Therebuilders bench test the rebuilt units at room temperature and theytest o.k. Then when the disty goes back into a hot engine compartment they quickly fail again. I've heard of people going through several rebuilt distys in PGTs within a few months. Avoid rebuilt units unless your hobby is installing distys on a weekly basis.

The best place to buy a new disty is eBay. There are a number of sellers that offer new distys for PGTs with upgraded ignitors that can withstand the heat. Don't go to a Ford dealer, they will charge you a fortune.

Another option is to jury rig a replacement ignitor with an inexpensive HEI module available for less than $20 at most auto part stores. This approach is complex and not for the faint of heart. You can read about that here.

BTW, a 1993 or 1994 Probe GT that experiences stalling along with the tach either dropping like a stone to zero while the car is still moving or the tach bouncing wildly is considered highly diagnostic of disty failure.

adjust it to 16 degrees then, this should compensate the wear on your timing belt, but also then I recommend to replace your timing belt soon.

Have you done a back pressure test on it? If you have no idea what I'm talking about, unbolt exhaust at heads or before the catalitic converter/converters. Try starting then driving it then. If that solves your problem, your catalitic converter/converters are clogged.