I have a 2007 suzuki swift (20000 miles). Three months ago I had a replacement engine installed because of an accidentally damaged sump and oil leak issue. Two days ago the car was happily going along at 3000rpm when all of a sudden the revs dropped and plumbs of 'smoke' bellowed out from underneath. The local main dealer suggested, upon picking it up, that there may be a hole in the radiator which has caused the engine to over heat and now the head gasket has gone. There were no warning lights on until the sudden drop in revs and the car was stopped instantly (because of the leaking oil we had previously) They are adamant there was no issue with the replacement engine that they installed a few months back and that this is a common occurrence. (probably caused by a stone chip). They've investigated and the cause is exactly as they first hypothesised. Is this type of catastrophic failure really such a common occurrence - with little or no warning?

Hi Ricky why are you replacing the sump is it damaged or leaking?
It is not a job I would undertake if you do not have a vehicle hoist. Being 2007 it must be a series 1. If its because of an oil leak make completely sure the oil is leaking at the sump. The turbo at rear of engine is very common to leaking and from underside of engine gives the impression of a sump leak. just confirm fault first. If sump is damaged I mentioned a hoist because to get enough clearance for removing sump you may need to lower front subframe, all wheel drive is more involved and this is much easier on a hoist plus when fitting new sump it is sealed with special sealant and if you do not work in a comfortable manner it is difficult to clean off old sealant but more importantly you may scrape the new sealant off when refitting the sump in turn creating another leak. My advise would be to book it into a garage preferably Holden let them give you a correct diagnosis or quote for replacement. You would remove a head ache and receive a warranty on the repair. If you do it yourself you will have many head aches and if you get it wrong you will either have to pay a dealer anyway or suffer the thought of all that time that you spent on it just to do it all again. I have replaced/repaired many sumps on these vehicles and series 2 I have lost count on how many oil leaks I have repaired. Good luck

10W-40 motor oil

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SUZUKI EZ SWIFT Electronic Power Steering Module / EPS
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problems with the EPS...would say so

non repairable- throw away part
when faulty replace the module
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Yes
2006 Suzuki swift fuel light Google Search

automatic trans right?not stick, both have clutches.!!
so you want us to guess leaks.?
well is it ATF leaking? or engine oil>?>
pink or brown, oil>?
finding A/T leaks is no easy task,
some seals will fail again if the TC is not swapped out.
the seal runs on a metal surface there, and most not be damaged
the pump is there and it can leak.
finding it is no easy task, and very expensive.

find a mech, that will find it
clean it all , drive for 5 miles, see leak now? way 1.
way2
use dye IR light methods
buy the dye kit and put it into the unsaid oil source.
ask any mech, on earth to ID that oil, ATF, GL4, or engine oil
then add dye to that source, and run engine, and load up trans (A/T)
and see it leak and see the dye glow as it does with IR light .
$15 kit, to do.

try top post next time, what engine you have, and what trans.
we cant guess any of that, a swift to me , is a metal cage.
what matters here, is what driveline you have (cage gone)

might need to reset sensor, my van does that every three thousand miles, computer controls that tracking of milage to estimate the next change, try this to see if it clears------turn on ignition so dash lights up ,right before you turn ignition for a full start,this is so the computer turns on( dont have car running) then pump gas pedal three full times and hold it down on a fourth for about ten seconds,( pump,pump,pump,hold), hopefullt this should reset the computer sensor. turn off car wait ten to fifteen seconds, and start normally, hopefully it should have the oil light on after that, if it does you might need to check with a mechanic.

Hello, if you are losing coolant as you say than the most probable place is through your head and into your exhaust system, it is highly likely you have a cracked head or a major head gasket leak. The only other place it can go is if you have a automatic vehicle with the cooler on the bottom of the radiator tank (crack between two tanks), it will go straight into your transmission, you can tell if the transmission oil is overfull and watery (thin and whitish).

i would say its wear and tear,you can kill a clutch in a day if your hard on it,,,or it could take 150,000 miles,,suzuki will classify that as a wear and tear item,,they are really tight with that stuff,

at the bottom of the engine you will see the oil sump its like a tub with a screw that looks like a star you nedd some sort of bucket to catch the oil, make sure the engine is cool put the bucket underneath the sump then unscrew it make sure to catch the screw the oil will come out of the hole leave it for a while till oil is all out then locate oil filter unscrew this, this will want replacing with a new one. (get the new oil filter first then you will know witch one to take off from the engine) replace old for new , screw the screw back into the sump make sure you do this befors you put new oil in when it is in and new oil filter is on put new oil in to the mark on your dip stick and away you go.. hope this helps you. please put feed back on profile for me if this help you bye

Four or six cylinder engine and behind or front of the oil filter? Looked under my GV 2007 2.7 V6 and can not locate a shiny metal box next to the oil filter. Only thing that was shiny was the exhaust manifold and oil sump which are quite hard to break or puncture. If it was the oil sump you will have to remove it and get it welded as a bog will not hold on heated engine parts.

A wet and dry compression test, and a cylinder leak down test will narrow down this issue.
It's not unusual for an engine to smoke slightly until it's warmed up, especially if the choke is set a little rich. With only 400 miles, the rings are certainly not yet completely worn in and are not sealing yet. Depending on the oil used, driving habits, the engine can not be expected to be completely broken in for at least a couple thousand and as much as 5k miles. I used synthetic oils from the start, and the rings didn't start to seal well for 7k miles. It still uses very little oil at 88k miles, although piston slap is now evident cold, and another o/haul is scheduled for this winter.
Does that make sense?