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Hello, The washer reservoir for the rear is the same as the one for the front. It has two small fluid pumps on the bottom of the reservoir, one for the front and one for the rear. If your rear washer isn't spraying, I would suspect there is a clog somewhere in the wash fluid tube leading back to the nozzle. If you have an air supply with a small tipped air blower, you can usually put a small amount of air through the line to see if it clears. I would advise to gain access to the rear washer tube and disconnect it and introduce the air at that location. Just figured I'd add that bit of diagnosis in case that was your problem. Hope this info helps!
First check to see if you have enough washer fluid in the reservoir. Then check to see if the rubber tubing is kinked or pinched when you close the hood. It is possible but not likely to be plugged up, except during the winter. The spray nozzles could be plugged up, because the opening is much smaller than the tubing. Even though the pump is operating, does not mean that it is actually pumping any fluid. The pump assembly is electrical and mechanical. The electric motor runs, but the pumping mechanism could be defective. If you use compressed air to clean out the rubber tubing, make sure the rubber hose is not connected up to the pump assembly. It might get damaged from too much pressure.
Hello! The rear washer tubing runs from the reservoir up thru the front corner
support column, thru the roof and over to the door. The tubing run from
the reservoir to rear door washer jet differs between left and right
hand drive vehicles. On right hand vehicles the tubing run is on the
left hand side of the roof. On left hand drive vehicles, the right side.
Normally, there is always fluid present in the tubing, thus no priming
is necessary and it prevents any clogging... The rear
washer jet is is more than likely plugged... Guru...saailer
2 ways to check what it is: 1st, check all fluid levels to see what is low. 2nd, if it's clear, it is your a/c condensation vent tube (normal to drip on the ground), green is coolant, red or pink would be trans. fluid, or power steering fluid, tan, or brownish would be oil or brake fluid, blue would be windshield washer fluid. So, check all the above fluid levels to see what is low, then using a white rag or paper towel, dab the ground where the leak is dripping to determine the color. Let me know what you find.
Clean the outside of the master cylinder reservoir so as to keep dirt out of all fluid.
Use a new, previously unopened bottle of the correct fluid (DOT 3, perhaps).
Open the seservoir, starting with the right rear, attach a suitable tube to the bleed screw, place the other end of the tube in a stable one quart jar below the level of the hub. Loosen the bleed screw (added tube attached) one half turn and allow gravity to move fluid from reservoir through the system watching two things: ceasation of bubbles in fluid exiting the bleed tube and that the reservoir never be allowed to run dry. Close the bleed screw, remove the bleed tube.
Repeat for left rear, right front and left front.
Check that firm high brake pedal is obtained prior to test driving.
Be ceratin that the brakes function before moving the vehicle.
Be careful with brake fluid, it will damage many surfaces and finishes. It does absorb moisture so keep it dry (no rain exposure). Dispose of old/unused fluid properly.
right where the lines connect to reservoir, has little black seals that leak. I recommend removing reservoir, empty it out, then use RTV silicone and place it between seals and reservoir. Let it dry for FULL day. than reinstall.
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