Not starting when hot replace alt and bat is this

redux 1: kick is click.
yes heat can cause any electrics to fail sure can.

the alternator, is what glows that battery lamp, (bat /gen/alt/charger)
or is dead alternator or intermittent or fails hot.
or a bad battery , or intermittent. and sure heat failing.
that is 3 possible things,
battery fails load tests
when running battery does not show 13. to 15vdc , so alt is bad or
fuses for alt are bad.
great post,. very rare this kind of failure. hot. I'm sure it will get worsE as they love to do. the fuse can not fail hot, unless rusty. or has ,micro cracks on it.
BEST IS CHECK ALL FUSES FIRST.



what happens on A dead starter ,? but all you get is one tiny click){no kick)\?
that CLICK is the starter relay working. (doing its job)<< a good sign and FACT.

the battery is dead, now, or rust/loose, battery cables or lugs.
what we do is ( I will assume Alternator is dead)_
charge the battery and or have it load tested for good/ bad.?
or use jumper cables to crank the dead starter, (not backwards jumped EVER)
now the stater motor can crank the engine now and it starts
but if the "battery light on the dashboard" glows engine running the that alternator is dead and with that thje battery goes dead again (repeats)

alternators can fail many ways, (on running engine and test to find it)
1: ALT is dead (or weak or inermittant or fails hot )
2; 3 ALT FUSES , 1 OF THEM BLOW OUT. 50AMP TO 100 AMP. YES. OR IT'S FUSIBLE LINK,
3: LOOSE FAN BELT TO IT OR MISSING.
4: learn that bad battery can make the alternator seem bad but the ALT is okay.

on newer cars the ALT is smarter and it goes off line if it (thinks?) the battery might explode.
shorted cell batteries
or battery dead open circuit (inside it)
the ALT does not want to go over voltage and to prevent that it may just go off line, to not damage car. electronics.

tests,
CHECK ALL FUSES
load test the battery, most shops or autostore's do this for free, (a test)
borrow and good battery from other good car
jumper cable start car, (as AAA AUTO CLUB tow trucks do endlessly)
HOT WIRE THE STARTER soleniod, TO PROVE STARTER IS GOOD/BAD (BATTERY KNOWN GOOD FIRST.

Sounds like the alternator is charging, but the extra voltage is not reaching the battery. You should have battery voltage on the large wire at the alternator with the engine off.
If not, that wire is fried or a fuse is blown.

Corrosion on the Battery if the Battery is good...

check power to alt first , alt has one big red wire that bolts to back of alt that should be hot all the time. if it is not hot with fire check fuseable link that is in wire bolted to the starter. also has two smaller wires that plug in alt. one goes to charge lite or bat guage in dash, other wire goes to ign and should be hot when ign is on if it is not change ign switch

I would start at the positive terminal on the battery. Is there a separate wire to the clamp carrying the current from the alternator? It should have a fusible link in it (may not be obvious, could be just a thick spot in the wire). If the problem is not there, you will need to trace that wire forward, checking for voltage everywhere the wire is visible (poke a sewing pin through the insulation to get voltage reading)..

dis-connect bat, take off serp belt, unbolt alt, remove wires from alt, install reverse order

Thats a guessing game, but first, if the battery light was on, that means no alternator output. So recharge the batteries and be sure they are good, Then replace the alternator. If the batteries and the alt are good, and the battery light is off, then all should be OK.

well , the ECU runs the alternator. (DG wire "dark green")
the alternator field is controlled 100% by PCM reg , inside PCM.
so..... if the running engine has 13.3, to 15vdc the alt is working
if lower, its not. (rpm on engine 800 or more)

not scanning the PCM a the CEL glow, you missed the boat.
why not scan it. see why the PCM is upset (DTC errors stored)

see the 2 lower pins below , those go to PCM.
in theory if the field in the old BAD ALT, was shorted.
that could in fact, burn up the PCM regulator.
shorting outputs of PCM , does that in most cases.
im the poor sod that fixes PCM's.so....

sounds like alt. wasn't charging/or bat wasn't taking charge. take bat to have tasted. if its ok. suspect the alt. with a good bat. the voltage at terminals when running with lights on should be 12-14.5.

if you have a 3 wire Alt :
you have to hot to the Bat.

than # 1 of the 2 pins goes to a switched hot (NOT to the Dist. the car wont turn off) this is what turns on the Alt. charging system
the #2 goes to the charging lamp on the dash