No spark and fuel pump wont work do 2 flood damage

its not getting gas, is that a guess? or the results of a real test.
as per FSM book.?
the only test that proves not getting gas, is all spark plugs out and all are white and dry. (NOT GETTING GAS to the combustion chambers)
i think its flooding (sparks wet)
and all cars clear floods, with wide open throttle cranking, (A feature)
this magic feature, cuts all fuel cranking, to clear said flood.
(oper, guide covers this)

if this works,
ever consider a full tuneup? this decade? with filters?
if tuned up, then scan it to see if there are DTC errors cranking?
check for spark , during failures. ?
check for flooding? spark good,!
there are many causes of flooding, (spark good, tuned up)

• too high fuel pressure
• injectors leaking
• fuel regulator bad.
• no air supply starting, bad IAC STUCK CLOSED,

Try starting with 5% throttle ,creating a good human made, IAC, (fresh air)
each line has tests we do,, if you dont have tools, all this is just
water under the bridge.

do you want guessing (unsaid)
here:

1. never tuned up.
2. too high fuel pressure and flooding.
3. and many more. i just rolled dice 2 times.

gas engine, not diesel.
its probably flooding, ever give it a 60k mile tune up, ever?
we check spark tips for flooding and dry,never do we guess at fuel pumps, ever. (pressure gauge is $20)
tips dry or soaking wet.
we check for spark , no gas engine car runs with no spark
so we check all cylinders for good spark
if spark is good and flooding (new spark plugs) we use
cranking wide open throttle wot. like the operators guide says.
start now? this cuts all injection, this magic PCM trick.

see scotty ,
1: compresson at spec, 2: spark good and timed. and 3: fueling last.

skip the silly ad.
note he says 2, but he ASSUMES compression is good. (oops)
but his tests are fast, and if it fails to start, see #1 above. ask
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp

no starts.
cranks perfectly, full cranking speed, not 1 rpm but nearer 300.

ever do the 60k tuneup in the book.?
assuming the service was done and all cyl. are over 150PSI (WOT)
then we check spark first, not fuel..
The ECU brain cuts fuel (by design) any time spark is gone.
here is the proper flow:
1: throw, wild guess?, compression is good,. cam belt slip??????
is cam shaft turning,? look down oil fill hole. is it?
2: i check spark it's bad. (fix spark)
2a: i check spark its good', on all 4 cylinders not just 1.
3: spark was good. cam spins, pray compression is ok....
4: i connect scan tool, i crank for 5 seconds and see RPM rise ,good
i see ECT at say 50f (garage temp) and might see DTCs get thrown as i crank? , i see P0340 or p0355 ( one is dead CKP and other is CMP)
in my case no DTC thrown cranking , and i have spark and ECU
communicates. (key point) we alway s do that ,the tool is $9 (ask)

5: i then look at spark tips, they are:
1: soaking wet, its flooded, (spark was good but they are 10 year old.
2: dry, no fuel all spark tips day.
your engine has 4 cylinders, and all four most not flood or run dry.
i can listen to any cold start and hear gross misfire. but.....
if they are bone dry, i check voltage to the fuel pump.
it must be 12vdc cranking , 1/2 the cars you must crank. to get the pump to run ,(ECU hard logic!)
say I have 12vdc cranking
i check he fuel pressure, its not 30psi, its 5 psi (bad)
i rap the side of the fuel pressure regulator and it now is 30psi.
car starts. the reg was stuck wide open(its bad)
ok, still no start. or good pressure. Good is 30.
let say it was 60psi, i find i forgot to replace my dirty and packed up fuel filter
at the 60k mile service point. ( did i save $10 ? , no)
pretend filter is good..... pressure way low.... (examples)
so i read my FSM and it shows this shunt test, i then block (pinch)
the Fuel return line at the Fuel press. regulator.
i see 60psi, the pump is good. (do only for 5seconds ) (2 man test)
i see 10psi, the pump is bad ( of i have 12v at pump cranking,.....)
all this are pump tests there are 6 tests. not counting the injector balance test.

this is my order you can do it backwards, but will most the time have to start over, and cuss a $200 pump change , in vain.
here is the scotty way.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp


Example 2.
wont start, spark is good, tuneup done. sparks all 4 are wet
this is called flooding, the operators guide, says.
crank with the throttle open (WOT) car starts, it was flooded.
can happen in N.Canana (especially summer fuel in tank)
now car runs find and fresh fuel , 10 x better.
or no?
if no , post car keeps flooding, we can work that too.
is fuel pressure at 60psi, bingo, ask.






\

ok slow down, it stalls, that is all we need, no need guess.
and tune up don, but you skipped the fuel filter? and air filter,?

STALLS 101.
1: lost 12vdc to EFI system. lost elect. power. easy to test , easy to see. you can attach a DMM set to 12v at the IGN output wire.
and see if it drops to zero as engine dies. sure can.

2: you could , check for spark at death, got spark
and work that path if spark fails.
3: lost fueling, (sparks soaked in fuel x 4? ) then its flooding
if dry spark tips x4 then lost fueling , so try test fuel.

you failed to say, is this a hard fail , i t dont run now.
or is always random... just a lil hint.
assuming power is hot at all EFI fuses.
then fails only 3 ways,
1: lost compression hot (if solid lifters, lash never set)
2: lost spark'
3: lost fuel or flooding.

if flooding use WOT, in this super secret mode works, Wide open throttle cranking, clears floods. (ecu cuts all fuel in this mode)

must be 90s week?
no starts, but cranks fully and full crank speed, which is near 300 rpm, called robust cranking but notarts.
its flooded.
(compression not above150PSI) means the timing belt has slipped.
and will never run right again, ever do the 60k tuneup yet.
if not , why not?
flooding.? so many way to flood.
1: spark plug tips x4 all wet with fuel.
use the cracking (wide open throttle like the op.guide shows)
this cuts all fuel, (EFI)
2: no spark, check spark x4 and if all 4 are dead, try the coil.
if the coil is dead, no spark there, then the dizzy is toast.
90 cars are a stand alone dizzy, meaning ECU is not doing this.
3: Flooding can be caused by other things.
see em all here.
over 28 ways !
but there are only really 3 ways.
1: bad engine (60k tuneup skipped.)
2: bad spark
3: bad fueling.

it is one of those,
there are 2 exceptions.
1: EGR main stuck open. (this kills fueling to start and low rpm)
2: CAT melted (this kills an engine, it cant pump air. )
http://www.fixkick.com/flooding.html

Since the engine cranks, the battery, starter motor/starter motor solenoid are most likely
good, so suspect everything else on the list. When you narrow it down, re-post with a
more specific question about that particular component, since 100s of components must operate
nearly perfectly for a vehicle to actually start.

Priority Action Part Type -- Cause
1 Inspect Battery -- Battery Discharged or Faulty.
2 Inspect Battery Cable -- Corroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable.
3 Inspect Battery Cable Connector -- Broken/Corroded/Loose.
4 Inspect Fuel Filter -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter.
5 Inspect Ignition Coil -- Faulty Ignition Coil.
6 Inspect Wireset (aka Spark Plug Wires) -- Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s).
7 Inspect Spark Plug -- Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s).
8 Inspect Starter -- Starter Motor Faulty.
9 Inspect Fuel Pump -- Low Fuel Pressure.
10 Inspect Solenoid Switch -- Faulty Starter Solenoid Switch.
11 Inspect Fuel Pump Relay -- Faulty Fuel Pump Relay.
12 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator -- Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator.
13 Inspect Ignition Switch -- Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch.
14 Inspect Starter Drive -- Faulty Starter Drive.
15 Inspect Fuel Injectors -- Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors.
16 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer (inside fuel tank) -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainer.
17 Inspect Engine Control Computer -- Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC (faulty computer)
18 Inspect Fuel Tank -- Fuel Tank Empty.
19 Inspect Carburetor -- Carburetor Flooded or Faulty Choke.
20 Inspect Distributor Cap -- Worn, Loose, Cracked, or Incorrectly Installed Distributor Cap.
21 Inspect Distributor Rotor -- Worn, Loose, Burnt contact surface
22 Test/Inspect Neutral Safety Switch -- Faulty Neutral Safety Switch

1 Inspect Battery Battery Discharged or Faulty. 2 Inspect Battery Cable Corroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable. 3 Inspect Distributor Cap Distributor Cap Cracked or Burned. 3 Inspect Fuel Filter Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter. 5 Inspect Coil - Ignition Faulty Ignition Coil. 6 Inspect Wireset Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s). 7 Inspect Spark Plug Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s). 8 Inspect Starter Starter Motor Faulty. 9 Inspect Fuel Pump Low Fuel Pressure. 10 Inspect Solenoid Switch Faulty Starter Solenoid Switch. 11 Inspect Relay - Fuel Pumpat Faulty Fuel Pump Relay. 12 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator. 13 Inspect Ignition Switch Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch. 14 Inspect Starter Drive Faulty Starter Drive. 15 Inspect Fuel Injector Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors. 16 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainerat. 17 Inspect Engine Control Computer Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC. 18 Inspect Fuel Tank Fuel Tank Empty. 19 Inspect Carburetor Carburetor Flooded or Faulty Choke. 20 Inspect Distributor Worn, Loose, or Incorrectly Installed Distributor.

Does it sound like its spinning or turning faster than normal? If so could just be flooded. Try cranking engine with excellerator 3/4 way down at 10 sec intervals with 2 min brake in between. These cars have always seemed to flood easy. And the air intake system is so enclosed it cant really dry out easy. I try that 3-4 times if it does seem like its trying to start or getting better than Id say tow to mechanic. Possible coil problems too? But seen alot of them flood out.

This could be a lot of things,fuel pump pressure not enough(new fuel pump)or spark plugs and air filter need to be replaced(flooded plugs and air filter stopping up)timing has jumped,or maybe a blocked fuel filter?

1 Inspect Battery Battery Discharged or Faulty. 2 Inspect Battery Cable Corroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable. 3 Inspect Fuel Filter Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter. 3 Inspect Distributor Cap Distributor Cap Cracked or Burned. 5 Inspect Coil - Ignition Faulty Ignition Coil. 6 Inspect Wireset Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s). 7 Inspect Spark Plug Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s). 8 Inspect Starter Starter Motor Faulty. 9 Inspect Fuel Pump Low Fuel Pressure. 10 Inspect Solenoid Switch Faulty Starter Solenoid Switch. 11 Inspect Relay - Fuel Pumpat Faulty Fuel Pump Relay. 12 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator. 13 Inspect Ignition Switch Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch. 14 Inspect Starter Drive Faulty Starter Drive. 15 Inspect Fuel Injector Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors. 16 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainerat. 17 Inspect Engine Control Computer Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC. 18 Inspect Fuel Tank Fuel Tank Empty. 19 Inspect Carburetor Carburetor Flooded or Faulty Choke. 20 Inspect Distributor Worn, Loose, or Incorrectly Installed Distributor.