I just replaced both front rotors and pads, along with the driver side caliper. My next step is to now bleed the brakes. my question is do i need to bleed all 4 brakes or just the 1 that was replaced?

First you want to remove brake fluid from brake resovoir, raise front wheels off ground and set park brake or block rear wheels. Remove front wheels, keep steering wheel unlocked so you can turn rotors side to side. Loosen bolts that hold caliper end gently pry caliper free from rotor, remove caliper and remove pads, use bungy cord to hang caliper away from rotor, have rotors measured to see if they are thick enough to have machined, replace if out of specs. Match up pads with old ones, use anti- squeak red liquid and put layer on back of pads, let dry. Use tool to put pistons back into calipers, slowly put pistons back into bore while opening up bleeder screw so ABS won't be damaged. After rotors resurfaced, wash with rubbing alchohal to remove any oils from hands, install rotors and reverse putting pads back onto caliper and reinstall, torque caliper bolts to factory specs and tighten bleeder screws. Install wheels, torque lug nuts to factory specs and replace brake fluid in resovoir. Lower car carefully to ground and press brake peddle without pumping it. Any air in system should bleed out, if not get someone to help with bleeding system. Road test to ensure no squeaks or pulling, burn brakes in slowly.

Bleed all of your brake lines.

Did you bleed the brakes after doing all that stuff? You have to bleed em any time you remove the calipers

will try to help. 1st remove the wheel, then remove the 2 caliper bolts that hold the brake caliper on. after removal of brake caliper, [it should just pull off after the 2 bolts are removed] replace the brake pads[be sure to apply anti squeal lube to the outer side of the pads..not the pad itself,the one not contacting the brake rotor] install the pads, the you will need a C clamp to push the brake caliper pistons back into the caliper. i've used this installation easily. use the old pad ,place it against the caliper piston,then apply the C clamp and push the caliper piston back into the brake caliper, then the brake caliper will slide back over the new pads easily, no need to bleed the brakes if you use this solution. replace the brake caliper bolts, then go to next side and repeat the process. after the replacement of the front brake pads,pump the brakes with engine running!!! it's really a simple process. be sure the brake pads are facing the brake rotors with the [pads] facicing the rotors. no metal facing metal. easy! if you have added brake fluid recently, do not be alarmed if you see fluid coming out of the brake master cylinder,when you use the C clamp to collaspe the brake caliper back into the recessed position. [as always when you have to add brake fluid to the brake master cylinder,it only means your brakes are wearing naturally. if you have a vibration in front wheels or steering wheel when braking, you have a brake rotor or both front brake rotors that need replacement with your brakes also. hope this helps and as always, please get a second opinion if you have doubt. an expert will be happy to help. thank you for choosing fixya.com

Front brake
Step 1: Identify Front Disc Brake Components

Front Wheel Drive Brake Assembly
Most front disc brake components include: brake rotor, brake pads, brake caliper, caliper mount and brake flex hose. Brake service usual occurs between 20,000 and 40,000 miles depending on driver habits, road conditions and brake pad/ rotor materials used.
Step 2: Remove Brake Caliper to Replace Pads

Removing Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts
Locate primary caliper mounting bolts; apply wrench pressure counter-clockwise (When looking at the head of the bolt) to remove the bolts, upper and lower. Make sure the bolt threads are in good shape and replace if necessary.
Step 3: Remove Front Brake Caliper

Remove Front Brake Caliper
After removing the primary caliper mounting bolts lift the brake caliper off of the rotor and then tie or secure to the side, being careful not to bend or kink the brake caliper flex hose. Thoroughly inspect brake caliper and brake hoses for leakage, cracks or chaffing and replace as needed. Next remove the brake pads (If not mounted in the caliper) and secondary caliper mounting bolts. Notice how great protective gloves work, most technicians use them on the job today.
Step 4: Remove Brake Pads

Remove Front Brake Pads
Once the brake pads have been removed, make sure if there is anti rattle hardware to transfer to the new brake pads. Some brake pad manufacturers will include the proper lube (Caliper slides) and anti-rattle hardware to ensure proper performance of their product.
Step 5: Remove Caliper Mount

Remove Caliper Mount Bracket
Finish removing secondary caliper mount bolts and remove caliper mount. Note: clean and lube caliper slides and pad friction surfaces of all foreign material or build-up.
Step 6: Remove Brake Rotor

Remove Brake Rotor
With the caliper mount out of the way you can now remove the brake rotor. Sometimes it can get stuck so you may need to tap it with a hammer or use penetrating oil to free it up. Some manufacturers use small screws to hold the rotor on as well. Clean and inspect wheel studs, replace if any are damaged. Also clean bearing hub rotor mount surface to ensure the proper mounting of the new brake rotor. Inspect the ABS sensor wheel for cracks or damage and replace as needed.
Step 7: Depressing the Brake Caliper

Resetting Brake Caliper
To install the new brake pads you must retract the brake caliper piston. Remove the master cylinder lid or open the brake caliper bleeder screw to allow excess brake fluid to be released if necessary. Install C clamp tool and gently tighten clamp until caliper piston is fully depressed. Note: use old brake pad to protect the caliper piston. Close the bleeders once the piston is retracted completely
Step 8: Installing New Brake Rotor

Install Brake Rotor
Install new brake rotor, the new rotor is manufactured with a protective film over the rotor to keep it from rusting, remove protective film with brake cleaner before installing; also after the brake job is complete you may experience a small amount of smoke from the rotor when first used. This is normal and will go away after the first couple of uses.
Step 9: Installing New Front Brake Pads

Installing New Brake Pads
Reinstall the front brake caliper mount, and then install front brake pads. Make sure the pads are seated properly in the caliper mount; it must be a close fit to work properly..
Step 10: Reinstall Front Brake Caliper

Re-Install front Bake Caliper
Reinstall front brake caliper and reinstall caliper-mounting bolts, recheck all mounts and mounting bolts. Check the caliper slides to be sure there is no bind and that the caliper moves freely back and forth on the caliper slides. Bleed brake system per manufacturer's specifications to relieve any air trapped in the system. Before driving the vehicle, push the brake pedal down and let it up slowly, repeat until normal brake pedal operation resumes, this operation is forcing the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors.

when you take the lines off the calipers, put a small screwdriver between the front brake rotors and the back pad and gently pry the piston back into the caliper. use a larger screwdriver once it starts to compress. All of the fluid should come out the back of the caliper. Catch it in a pan. Once both calipers are collapsed, hook the brake lines on the calipers and gravity bleed the lines thru the caliper bleeders. make sure to keep the reservoir full while bleeding. After bleeding, you will need to pump the brake pedal to bring the pads back to the rotors. refill the reservoir after doing that.

On the temp gage, open the radiotor cap, if you have one. run the engine until it is hot and the thermostat opens--you should be able to see coolant flowing inside the radiator. Fill the radiator and keep it full if it goes down any. I think it should bleed itself like this, but look around for any bleed ports either on top of where the hoses connect to the engine or else they might be along the hoses. There is no mention of coolant bleed ports in the manual.

If this doesn't fix it, get back to me.

Buy a repair manual for the vehicle from your local auto parts store...they are under $20. The repair manual will show you step by step what needs to be done and more than likely has a few pictures to help out. Trying to write it out step by step here would take a long time and would be at least a few pages long.

Stuff to buy:
New Calipers
New Rotors
New Brake Pads
Brake Fluid
Brake Cleaner
Repair Manual
If the pads do not come with new clips, you may have to buy 2 of them.
Grease

Basic Tools needed:
Hex Wrench Set
Basic wrench set
Socket Set
Tire Iron
Floor Jack and Jack Stands
Hammer might come in useful, along with a bigger regular screw driver.
C-Clamps
Sand Paper/Steel Brush
Rags
A helper to bleed the brakes.

If vehicle has ABS, that system also might need to be bled...repair manual will let you know.

Before installing the new rotors, spray/wipe them down good with brake Cleaner...they are oiled for storage/shipping.

Hope this helps.

1) Block rear wheels and place Park brake ON
2) Jack up front end and use Jack Stands. If you dont have Jack Stands, you can use the Car Jack but when you remove the tire, slide the tire under the vehicle so that if it does fall off of the jack, it will land on the tire/rim and not your body. Always remember NEVER get any part of your body under the vehicle when it is not on Jack Stands.!!!!!
-- You can do 1 side at a time - Procedure is the same for Both Sides
3) Remove Tire
4) There are 2 bolts behind the brake caliper (the thing that holds the brake pads on.) You may need a special tool, it's kind of like an Allen Wrench, but it is sort of Star-Shaped, You can get these at any Car Parts Store. These bolts are inside 2 rubber tubes, don't remove these rubber tubes (like I did)....
5) Once you remove the 2 bolts, the caliper and shoes may then be lifted from the Brake Rotor.
-- Note: Once you remove the caliper, the brake rotor will come off. It is highly recommended that you take these brake rotors to a shop and have them 'turned'. If you don't, then your brake repair will result in faster wear of the new pads and may cause unbalanced braking. I know... I did the same thing trying to save money.
-- Or you can get new rotors and install them. They are not that much and new rotors will last longer than turned ones.
6) Remove the outer pad (Use a screw-driver to pry off the spring-holder.
7) To remove the inner pad, you should loosen the "Brake Bleed Valve" on the caliper and push the inner pad in *Pushing the piston in* This will make brake fluid come out of the bleed valve, so catch it in a pan. Once it's pushed in most of the way, Close the bleed-valve and then pry off the inner pad. If you DONT close the brake bleed valve and you try and pull the inner pad off, it will just **** AIR into the brake system, which sucks making step 16 that much harder...
8) Inspect the inner piston for rust / debrit. If there is damage to the piston, or you see brake fluid leakage anywhere on the caliper, you may have to get a new caliper.
9) Install the new inner pad by pressing it into the piston-Cup. You have to make sure you line up the pad also...
10) Install the new Outer Pad, Make sure that the locking clip Locks onto the caliper.
10a) This may be a good time to inspect your Axle and Wheel Bearings. If the Rubber is torn or missing from your axle (CV-Boot) that should be repaired.
11) Place the rotor back on the axle
12) Slip on the Caliper back over the rotor and make sure it is lined up properly to the caliper mount.
13) It is recommended to get NEW bolts, but if you dont, then re--install the bolts. Make sure they are tight.
14) Replace wheel.
15) Do the OTHER side.
16) Now that BOTH sides are done, you must now Bleed the Brake System.
-- You will need someone to sit inside the vehicle while you bleed the brakes.
a) Without the brake being pressed, make sure the Brake Fluid is topped filled to the Full Line.
b) Start the car
c) Start at the Right Rear of the vehicle
d) Tell the person to apply AND HOLD the brake pedal. Open the Bleed Valve and let air/fluid out. The driver should NOT let up on the pedal, but let it go to the floor and hold it there. Close the valve. Tell the driver to Pump and then HOLD the brake. Open the valve again letting air/fluid out. Driver should let the brake pedal go to the floor and hold, NEVER let up. Close the valve. You can repeat this process a few times until you hear NO air coming out.
d) Check the Brake Fluid Level make sure it's to the full line.
e) Move to the Left Rear Wheel and repeat step (d) for the Left Rear brake
f) Move to the Right Front and repeat step (d)
g) Move to the Left Front and repeat step (d).
17) Your brakes should now be bled. Make sure that the brake pedal does not feel "Mushy" but should feel "Firm". If it feels "Mushy", then you still have some air trapped in the brake lines and you need to bleed the brake system again.

I hope that this helps someone out there wanting to do their own brakes. This is not a End-All and All-Knowing procedure. I may also be missing some important things/steps that you must take. I am just sharing my experience in my doing my own brakes.

The binding of the brakes is causing the pads to overheat, which is causing the smoke. You need pull the wheel and check things out. Your caliper must be bad (not releasing). You need to replace the caliper, brake pads, and have the rotor cut (a full service parts store or shop cuts the rotor perfectly smooth on both sides), or replaced (it may be cheaper to just buy a new rotor). You should also always change the pads (and check everything else) on the opposite side. So, if u do the brakes on the driver side front, always do the front pass. side at the same time, likewise if u do rear brakes.
Whenever you do brakes u should also flush out the brake lines (by bleeding the brakes) until the brake fluid flows absolutely clear. Old brake fluid is the #1 reason for caliper failure. I've seen many times people replace brake components w/out changing the brake fluid, only to have the brakes wear out very quickly, or not function properly. good luck! hope this helps> please rate this!couontrycurt0

crawl underneath the front and look at the caliper if it has a duel piston caliper you will see 2 circles about 3 inches across and if it is a single piston caliper it will only have one of these circles in the middle this iswhere the pistons are. yes those pads are suitable. As for bleeding the brakes you need to start at the passengers side rear wheel and bleed it first then go to the drivers side rear wheel then go to the passengers side front wheel and then finally the drivers side front wheel. If you are only replacing the brake pads and shoes then you don't need to bleed the brakes. If you are bleeding the brakes then you will want to be sure to top up the brake fluid as you are doing thebleeding process as if you don't you will end up having to start all over again. as for special tools you may need a 3/8 hex bit and a 8 inch " C " clamp to compress the calipers after you remove the brake pads. If you are replacing the rotors you may require a special socket fo dis-assebleing and re-assembly of the front hubs.