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My battery dies after 3 days of sitting - I pulled all the fuses and narrowed the problem down to an interior fuse labled "Room" a 15 amp fuse. When I leave the fuse out the battery is OK. The book says the fuse runs the interior lights, but when it's pulled it seems to run alot more like dashboard info, radio,etc...- How can I find if there is a short in the fuse which is making other things run off that fuse that shouldn't be???? Thanks
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You need to run a parasitic drain test with a multimeter. Disconnect the vehicle battery positive terminal and connect the multimeter in series between the battery positive terminal and lead. the multimeter should be set to display amps. With all systems turned off, the keys out of the ignition and all doors closed, alarm off and any hood/bonnet switch depressed then after 20 minutes the amp reading should be around 0.03 or less. If you have more than 0.05 then you may have a parasitic drain, causing a n accelerated loss in battery power. In this case, using the same setup then pull fuses one by one from the fusebox until your amps drop down to the normal range. The fuse you pull which causes the range to drop to normal represents the system which is at fault.
The most common causes of parasitic drain from my experience tend to nearly always be failed back up batteries in alarm siren modules or badly wired or faulty stereos. Those are the two systems I'd pay particular attention to.
Of course it may be a simple human fault like you left your trunk/boot light or interior light on.
well if the battery is good when you leave it it must have a voltage draw you have to take off one of the leads off the battery and put a inline amp meter to see how much draw..then you use an amp meter a light or buzzer and you pull fuses till the amps go down the light goes out or the buzzer stops depending on what you used.. then you go from there ..your going to need a schematic of the electrical system to see exactly what is off that fuse...or leave it out if you can live without it..interior lights ect
You need to perform a parasitic amp draw test. Make sure your doors are closed and all interior lights, etc are turned off. Using a multimeter first disconnect the negative terminal and place one probe on negative battery terminal and one on the negative terminal you removed. This will tell you if there is something pulling power off the battery while the car is sitting. To find the source of any amp draws on your system(aka parasites) pull one fuse at a time and see how much the draw changes. Look at aftermarket radios and alarms they almost always have a small amount of current draw. This should help you narrow down the component causing your issue. Once you have identified the source post the information so we can help you further.
A 50 AMP fuse is a main power fuse. This is not "isolated" that thing probably feeds 5 or more other circuits. You need to get the power distribution diagrams and narrow it down further by pulling the fuses (NOT RELAYS) that are fed by that fuse. Once you have it narrowed down to a single (small) fuse, then you narrow it further by checking the circuits that are fed by that fuse. You must check everything that is fed by the small fuse. The easiest way is using the power distribution diagrams to unplug all of the components (one at a time) that are powered by that fuse. Sometimes you can eliminate two or three components at a time by disconnecting a single, common connector.
Fuse #15 "BACK UP/ACC" (40 Amp) in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Box protects the circuits leading to Fuse #7 "BACKUP" (7.5 Amp) in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Box and also fuses (#5 "RADIO" (10 Amp), #6 "INTR LIGHT" (7.5 Amp), #7 "BACK UP" (7.5 Amp), #8 "not used", and #9 "FR ACC SOCKET (10 Amp) in the Driver's Fuse/Relay Box.
To further narrow down the source of your draw, pull each of these fuses one at a time.
No, that was not a "typo" There are 2 fuses marked "BACK UP" and are both 7.5 Amp and one is
in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Box and the other is in the Driver's Fuse/Relay Box. (I checked this 3 times just to make sure.)
either fit battery cut off switch or try taking the wires off the back of the alternator ,i have a funny feeling its a diode packed up in the rectifier
wow 3 batteries in 3 months???? undo the positive battery cable & connect a test light in between the + cable & the + battery. the light will go on if there is a draw, start pulling the fuses out one at a time until the light goes out then you know what circuit the problem is on. make sure you take the interior light out as the door being open will cause the test light to go on. This is called a parasidic loss..
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