I have seen crank sensors go and leave no codes, but, likely the fuel pump is going away...they get hot and seize, then cool down and work again. I would not replace either without proper testing only because parts are expensive and there are other heat sensitive components in there. (coil etc) Be aware that it will check out good if it is running right while tests are being done.
Testimonial: "It cranks when hot and has sit for a while, when it would not crank. If you now think it might be crank sensor, how do how do I get to it. "
first, you are doing something that drives me crazy...cranking is what the engine does when you turn the key. After it is cranking (turning) the engine starts.(and then can run on it's own) Your starter does not start your car...the ignition system does that...the starter turns the engine so the ignition system can do that.
To check the cps, attach a digital volt ohmeter to the b and c terminals of the sensor. the meter should not read any differently than it did when it was not connected. Take a reading when the engine can be started and again when it will not start. If that test shows it is bad, the sensor is located on the transmission bellhousing on the drivers side even with the flywheel at about 11 o'clock (not easy to reach)
Fuel pump needs pressure testing and don't forget that I mentioned doing complete testing before deciding what needs replacement. If you need instructions on tests, get a chiltons or haynes manual.
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