I just replaced all of my hydraulic lifters and no compression!

Check the oil? I don't work on bikes, but I know the lifters are hydraulic.

possible problems, is your radiator low, if so you can be pushing your compression out a blown head gasket into the cooling system forcing your antifreeze out, if this is not happening then, if you have a burnt valve on the exhaust or intake valve, or bent valve, or broken valve spring not letting the valve open all the way, broken piston ring, collapsed lifter if it has hydraulic lifters, a lot of the sebrings had problems with the tentioner going bad for the timming chain, looseing oil pressure inturn affecting the valves to open correctly causeing no compression, im not sure if you have a hydraulic tensioner on a four cylinder but its worth looking into. I had a car I worked on long ago for a guy, no compression on one cylinder, I pulled the head and found that he had a hole burned through the piston caused by a leaking fuel injector, over a period of time it burned through and melted, you could put your finger in it.

For the lifter to have exceeded the travel available, the valve would have had to eroded the seat very badly and I am sure you would have noticed that when you ground the valves. Have you tried starting the engine. If the valve is leaking as you say, it will idle very badly. Alternatively are you sure you have done a good grind on the valves. Generally it is better to have a machine shop reface the seats and valves rather than just grind them as you get a much better and longer lasting job. The likelihood of the lifter holding the valve open is very low so I would try starting it.

Hi. I can give you a simple, but time consuming test to do to check your intermittent compression problem. New hydraulic lifters cause a lot of problems until its settled. Remove the camshafts and the hydraulic lifters. Take each hydraulic lifter and put it in a vice(becarefull not to damage them) and squeeze out all the oil in the lifters. Then put them back and replace camshaft and allign timing marks. Check compression ratio. What happens sometimes is that the oil pressure is too high(stuck oil pressure release valve or cold thick oil) and this causes the oil pressure to put so much pressure on the hydraulic lifters, that it slightly forces the valve open. That will cause your low compression as well as backfire through the intake.

Firstly have a compression test done to determine which valve (if any) are stuck or bent.. If it is stuck or bent then the head will have to come off and that valve replaced. Check that the problem is not in a failed hydraulic lifter that is holding the valve slightly open. In this case the cam shaft will have to be removed to replace the faulty lifter.

The lifters are not supposed to be adjusted.
Each lifter is a small "engine" itself.
They are supposed to be self-adjusting (this was changed way back in the 1950's).
If you are determined to adjust them, you will need to contact a place that builds race car engines, because there are procedures race cars use that adjust them.
Oh yes, you can also replace hydraulic lifters with solid lifters.
Some race cars do, and that is because, at really high RPM's, lifters can :"float", causing the engine to "top out" and not go any faster. I had that happen on a car back in the 1970's.
Be blessed.

You can't do this, the system is set up for hydraulic as far as the fuel injection control modules programming goes, also how would you adjust them, there is no provision for that on the engine you have.

Please don't forget to rate!!!!

2.2L Engine When installing new lifters, a pre-lube should always be applied to the lifter body. It is also a good idea to prime hydraulic lifters by submerging them in clean engine oil and depressing the plunger using an old pushrod. This allows the internal components of the hydraulic lifter to coat with oil before initial operation in the engine. All lifters should be replaced when a new camshaft is installed.
If any valve train components (lifters, pushrods, rocker arms) are to be reused, they must be tagged or arranged during removal to assure installation in their original locations.

1. Remove the rocker arm cover.
   
2. Remove the cylinder head assembly from the engine.
   
3. Remove the bolts retaining the lifter anti-rotation brackets, then remove the brackets.
   
4. Remove the hydraulic roller lifters from the bores.
   
5. Inspect the lifter and lifter bore for wear and scuffing. Examine the roller for freedom of movement and/or flat spots on the roller surface.
   

Remove the bolts retaining the lifter anti-rotation brackets ...



... then remove the anti-rotation brackets



The lifters are located in bores in the engine block



Use a lifter removal tool to remove the lifters from the bore

To install:
If installing a new lifter, coat the lifter body with a suitable camshaft pre-lube

1. Install each hydraulic lifter to its bore being careful to align the flat sides (top) of the lifters with the flat sides of the anti-rotation brackets. When properly installed the flat sides of each lifter are aligned parallel to the anti-rotation bracket. The roller at the bottom of the lifter is parallel to the camshaft lobe.
   

Make sure to properly align and install each lifter as improper installation of the lifters or brackets could result in engine damage.

1. Install the anti-rotation bracket retaining bolts and tighten to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm).
   
2. Install the cylinder head.
   
3. Install the rocker arm cover.
   

Removing the hydraulic roller lifter from the 2.2L engine

Most of the vortecs that i have worked on have hydraulic roller lifters, but i cant say for certain that your engine does, however i am sure that it has hydraulic lifters and they can be checked by trying to push them down in the center where the pushrods contact, if they compress easily the lifter is bad, If they are roller lifters, check for any wear on the roller and how well they turn, it is ok to have some side to side movement on the pin but any up/down movement on the roller is bad. If the are non-roller lifters check for wear, if the lifter looks "dished" or "concaved" rather than having flat surface replace the lifter.

There is no adjustment. The torque setting if you have them off is 22ft lb.