I was given a 55000btu torpedo mr heater that is self starting I tried starting it several times it would ingnite and start to blow then go out like I said it did this several times and then nothing I can hear a click when I plug it in now but that's it. After all this I realized that the sponge filter was soaking wet from rain don't know if this was the cause please help

more details on the make, model will help to give you a solution.

Check an see if radiator is full , if so check the heater hoses going through the fire wall an see if they are hot !

bleed cooling system, probably there is air trapped in the heater core preventing warm coolant to circulate into the heater core. try this
1 open radiator cap fill coolant and put heater in hi heat
2 start engine and wait until you see the coolant start to circulate
3 squeeze hose several times watching if coolant volume decrease
4 add more coolant and repeat 3 until coolant volume stays same or start overflowing.
5 check if heater giving off warm air or repeat 3 and 4 until warm air blows on heater.
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or find the coolant bleeder screw, do 1 and 2
open bleeder screw until coolant come out, do this several times until no air comes out when opening bleeder screw, fill coolant in radiator.

Check to make sure the motors are moving hot to cold. The blinking control panel means it has self diag mode. Google how to get the heater control panel to go into self diag mode and when you get codes goggle them too . Prob bad control panel switch or unit

The MR code comes up because you are not allowing the vehicle to do the self checks before trying to start engine, it therefore does not regognise the key in the ignition and the immobiliser is activated. to overcome this allow the vehicle to do its self checks and when the neutral N symbol is shown then turn ignition switch to start.

Did you mean the only time it blows hot air is under acceleration?

First thing check the coolant level in the radiator. If coolant is low the first hing to stop working is the heat.

If the coolant level is fine but the coolant is muddy I woulds suspect a plugged heater core. You can try back flushing it by removing both heater hoses (engine cold) and then use a garden hose to flush clean water through the heater core. Do this on both pipes going into the heater core. Keep flushing until the water runs clear. Re attache the the hoses, remove the radiator cap, start the engine, let the engine come up to temp and top off the radiator with straight coolant (to comp for the water in the heater core). You may have to repeat this process several times over several days but you should be able to get it cleared enough to get sufficient heat without having to replace it.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

OK, most cars have heater cores that get hot but the blender door directs air away from this core in the a/c mode when you want cool air from the evaporator.

I'm not sure if there is a control valve which stops the water from going through the heater valve.

I think the part is called a 'heater blend door actuator' that you are after.
http://www.autoanything.com/air-conditioning-65-861/201A1060.aspx?kc=AFFCJ&mr:referralID=c9ca506d-9f22-11df-bf8d-0026b95a1738

the two wires from the carbie on a 91 triton where do thay go

Check timing chain or belt. Might have jumped out of position because of wear. Or check ingnition components. rotor, cap. or condenser.

This is a redundancy thing in the climate control system. You'll want to take the console apart and check the connectors behind the climate control panel. I was installing a stereo in mine, and when I started the car (with the climate control disconnected), it did exactly what you're describing.