That is sufficient compression. Either flooded, no fuel or timing(spark).
Try diagnosing using starter fluid. If it fires and runs for a couple seconds no fuel. Remove air filter and spray a 1 second burst directly into intake and promptly start.
If no fire with starter fluid, flooded or spark(timing). Pull spark plug... if wet, likely flooded.
That is not bad compression, you have something else wrong. IS the fuel good? What is the timing?
SOURCE: 2004 Honda Civic Ex won't start
if it sounds like it is trying to start you possibly have the firing order off. if that is not the case I would recheck the timing of belt to make sure you dont have one tooth off. stuff like that is so aggrivating, but if you have fuel and fire all you are missing is compression,if firing order isnt off, valves not being completely closed whent they need to be. due to improper timing.
SOURCE: GMC JIMMY NO START BUT GOT SPARK AND FUEL
try the oil pressure switch, that was a common problem on Gm trucks when I used to work on them, the oils switch was bad and woulden't allow it to start and the ones I worked on were on the back of the distributor.
SOURCE: 92 Firebird 3.1 L engine wont start many items checked replace
Ill buy it.=D i have a wrecked car but the engine and everything in it is perfectly fine. it will fit into your car and everything.
SOURCE: My 1991 Honda Accord cranks but won't start. I
If you think there is fuel pressure just because the fuel pump kicks in, you might not actually have pressure. The fuel pressure regulator could be shot which would cause the fuel to go right through the fuel rail and back into the tank. So make sure you use an actual fuel pressure gauge to test that and rule out the pressure regulator...just had to make sure you did that.
If you do in fact have fuel pressure, spark, and compression, then the issue is either your timing or that the fuel is not getting inside cylinder. Timing fix is obvious, the issue with your fuel could be clogged injectors, bad injectors, or the injectors are just not getting the signal to fire. The latter is the most likely. Use a mechanics stethescope and hold it to one of the injectors and listen for a clicking sound when your cranking the engine over. You can pick one up at harbor freight or sears. You could also take a screwdriver and hold it against the injector and press your ear against the handle. However, if the engine shakes while you crank it you might have a very bruised ear...try explaining that one to your friends. If the injectors are not firing, the resistor pack is probably bad. The resistor pack is that thing on the drivers side of the engine compartment with the heat sink on it. Pick up a new one from a junk yard if you want to save a few bucks. That should fix your problem though.
SOURCE: 2001 hyundai accent 1.5l
Replace the throttle position sensor (TPS) (since you've checked/replaced anything else which could be causing this problem - except WIRING). Reinspect all wiring & connectors/connections before replacing the TPS. Also, I've seen (on occasion, a faulty "Main Relay" create the condition you describe). Suppose you have a faulty ignition switch (ignition key). When placed in the 'START' position, the engine starts normally, BUT, when you release IT to the 'RUN' position, the engine dies - CLUE?
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