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Alan Tatom Posted on Dec 02, 2019
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How to install the return clip on the clutch fork 1999 Mitsubishi spyder 2.4

1 Answer

Derrick Schultz

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  • Mitsubishi Master 11,405 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 16, 2019
Derrick Schultz
Mitsubishi Master
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Joined: Jan 17, 2019
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Hi there's this website something like reliable-store and it is very amazing for manual for repairing servicing anything
someone on fixya recommended it to me and I thank him even today
They have full manuals and it's verrrrry cheap and mine
I got free in offers
3rd time I bought it, I also had an issue with the file so the girl replaced it in 30 mins
there is one website more but i don't remember its name it was 2 years back bitman something link this
Try these out brother

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 13, 2008

SOURCE: wiring harness

go to dsmsource.com or dsmtalk.com there are lots of places to go

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milespeed

  • 599 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 18, 2008

SOURCE: head gasket install how?

get a haynes manual at local auto parts store

Anonymous

  • 4044 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 27, 2009

SOURCE: 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder A/C Only Blows Hot Air

I would take it back to whoever replaced the module however, if you want to check for the problem yourself, Look for the AC compressor. with the AC turned off have someone start the vehicle, while watching the AC compressor have the person in the vehicle turn the AC on. If the clutch engages then you have lost your freon charge and need to have the AC unit serviced. If it does not start turn the engine off and check all the wiring connections going to the AC compressor. If all the connections are good start the vehicle, and have the person in the vehicle turn the control to cold and turn on the defroster. If the AC clutch engages then you have a bad ECM module or mis-programmed ECM take it back to be Properly programmed and repaired. If the clutch does not engage it is possible the AC compressor is bad. Take the vehicle to the Mechanic to have teh AC system checked to see why it is not engaging.

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 06, 2009

SOURCE: clutch pedal is hard to press.

this problem is caused when the clutch disk is worn out, it takes much more force to depress the clutch with a worn out disk, and yes a defective cable can cause this but that is less common.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Apr 09, 2012

SOURCE: 2005 rx8 clutch wont disengage

the rubber around the
piston are worn remove from gearbox and replace rubber seals

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1helpful
2answers

My clutch pedal stay close to the floor in my Acura CL. Doesnt return fully like it used too. Cant figure it out and I've replaced everythin

Bobbie, If your sure the system is bled properly,did you get the clutch fork back in correct position, was it the correct bearing etc., you may have to adjust the clutch pedal and / or if it has a mechanical return spring, change the spring, it could be weak.
Check the attached links,instruction and guides for clutch pedal adjustment., bleeding,etc.Good luck
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."

Clutch Kit Installation Acura CL 2 2L 2 3L
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Mitsubishi pajero clutch removal


I am currently replacing the clutch plate, pressure plate and thrust bearing on a 1996 Mitsubishi pajero gen-II 6g74 5-spd

I found loads of information on unbolting and un-plugging the electric's what I didn't find was information about separating the engine and transmission.
The thrust bearing is held in place by a cir-clip behind the pressure plate, the bearing fork is near imposable to access unless to two are separated.


note: I think it would've been best to do this when removing the hydraulic cylinder that moves the clutch fork as I had to re-bolt up the engine.


Here is how to do it !!
1: remove the two rubber inspection covers (one will be around the clutch fork) mine being r/h drive the fork is on the left-side, these are located either side of the gear box.
- Looking through the inspection ports you will see - thrust bearing, thrust bearing fork which is attached to the bearing via clips, back of pressure plate, gearbox input shaft.
2: you will need two long flat head screw drivers

3: you want to insert these between the thrust bearing and collar via the inspection ports to release the cir-clip

4: the thrust bearing and fork should now move freely on the splined shaft.

Still having problems ?
looking through the inspection holes - the collar shouldn't be visible (it looks like a spline)
- if it is !! you will need to move this further in to the pressure plate as the cir-clip wont have room to release behind the pressure plate.
- the point you are trying to insert the screw drivers into is between the collar and bearing (not the collar and pressure plate)
I was able to disengage the cir-clip for the trust bearing on the new pressure plate (on the bench) with a ball joint removal tool by a applying pressure to one side of the collar only - ( I don't think you can do this with the transmission in place as the thrust bearing fork gets in the way)
once removed - you will be able to separate the transmission and engine, unbolt the pressure plate, replace the clutch plate, unbolt the 10mm retaining bolt for the clutch fork which is located inside of the bell housing - knock up into the bell housing the frost plug this allows for the pin holding the fork to be removed (I did this by wiggling the fork back n forth and putting a piece of welding wire part way through the 10mm hole and pulling out through the frost plug hole).
hope this all helps someone...good luck
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Multiple erroneous diagnostic code readings.

Contact a Mitsubishi dealer for advise , could need a new ecu , hard to say without seeing vehicle
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How do you get the head rest out of the front seats on a 2003 mitsubishi eclipse spyder.

if there is not a button, then a good **** up will get them past the clips inside
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I just install an different engine in a 1999 3.2L Rodeo. the fork for the throw out bearing is hitting the pressure plate when the clutch in depress any help?

Sorry to tell you this-but you do not have the throw out bearing fork properly installed on throwout bearing. There is a spring clip on the fork that has to fit inside of throwout bearing's "groove"-I bet you the spring clip is on the BACKSIDE of throwout bearing! You will have to pull transmission back away from the engine to gain access to fix this. I do not envy the chore ahead of you-sorry!
0helpful
1answer

1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder A/C Only Blows Hot Air

I would take it back to whoever replaced the module however, if you want to check for the problem yourself, Look for the AC compressor. with the AC turned off have someone start the vehicle, while watching the AC compressor have the person in the vehicle turn the AC on. If the clutch engages then you have lost your freon charge and need to have the AC unit serviced. If it does not start turn the engine off and check all the wiring connections going to the AC compressor. If all the connections are good start the vehicle, and have the person in the vehicle turn the control to cold and turn on the defroster. If the AC clutch engages then you have a bad ECM module or mis-programmed ECM take it back to be Properly programmed and repaired. If the clutch does not engage it is possible the AC compressor is bad. Take the vehicle to the Mechanic to have teh AC system checked to see why it is not engaging.
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has a clip behind it or 2 [1 each side]
if its a wire clip release it if its
if its 2 just pull
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Clutch removal

You have to insert a screwdriver through a hole in the bottom of the transmission. while pushing the fork away from the engine you push the retainer clip with the screwdriver blade. it should release the bearing and cause the cluch fork to move freely toward the engine. It may take you a few tries to do this. This is whats known as an reverse pressure plate assembly. I think its kinda stupid idea. If only the designers would look at what it takes to work on these things......m2242202_00014.png
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Head gasket install how?

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Mitsubishi pajero 1992 turbo diesel 4cyl - clutch disk replacement

This job isn't one for the faint hearted - yes you do need some pretty special tools the main one being a transmission jack - its pretty heavy work otherwise a socket set and some basic knowledge.
but here's is a posting I recently made:
I am currently replacing the clutch plate, pressure plate and thrust bearing on a 1996 Mitsubishi pajero gen-II 6g74 5-spd
I found loads of information on unbolting and un-plugging the electric's etc. what I didn't find was information about separating the engine and transmission.
The thrust bearing is held in place by a cir-clip behind the pressure plate, the bearing fork is near imposable to access unless to two are separated.


note: I think it would've been best to do this when removing the hydraulic cylinder that moves the clutch fork as I had to re-bolt up the engine.


Here is how to do it !!
1: remove the two rubber inspection covers (one will be around the clutch fork) mine being r/h drive the fork is on the left-side, these are located either side of the gear box.
- Looking through the inspection ports you will see - thrust bearing, thrust bearing fork which is attached to the bearing via clips, back of pressure plate, gearbox input shaft .
2: you will need two long flat head screw drivers

3: you want to insert these between the thrust bearing and collar via the inspection ports to release the cir-clip

4: the thrust bearing and fork should now move freely on the splined shaft.

Still having problems ?
looking through the inspection holes - the collar shouldn't be visible (it looks like a spline)
- if it is !! you will need to move this further in to the pressure plate as the cir-clip wont have room to release behind the pressure plate.
- the point you are trying to insert the screw drivers into is between the collar and bearing (not the collar and pressure plate)
I was able to disengage the cir-clip for the trust bearing on the new pressure plate (on the bench) with a ball joint removal tool by a applying pressure to one side of the collar only - ( I don't think you can do this with the transmission in place as the thrust bearing fork gets in the way)
once removed - you will be able to separate the transmission and engine, unbolt the pressure plate, replace the clutch plate, unbolt the 10mm retaining bolt for the clutch fork which is located inside of the bell housing - knock up into the bell housing the frost plug this allows for the pin holding the fork to be removed (I did this by wiggling the fork back n forth and putting a piece of welding wire part way through the 10mm hole and pulling out through the frost plug hole).
hope this all helps someone...good luck

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