Airlock in the system
Change the stemseal and skimming might help because somewhere the is air flow not balancing
SOURCE: replaced water pump. thermostat. radiator, filled
Try backflushing,if this doesn't solve the problem,..then it could be the distributor,they can make the car run hot if the are going out.
SOURCE: Bublling in the thermostat housing and very hot upper radiator hose
I recommend flushing the radiator thoroughly if not done recently. there seems to be some sort of blockage in the radiator at this time. if you get lots of metal fragments that are flushed out during this flush, i will then recommend a rebuild on the radiator or replacement of the radiator. make sure the cooling fans are cycling on time as well.
SOURCE: Nissan Sentra 2001 - Overheating but no hot air
It could be just air in the system, or it could be the heater matrix just by your feet, fitted central dash, check to see if the two water pipes that go into the car from the engine compartment are hot if there is only one that is then thats your problem, but if they are both cold the problem is more to do with where the water is coming from, please let me know how you get on
Testimonial: "Great tips, pointed me in the right direction."
SOURCE: 2001 Mazda Tribute (3.0 L) Heater motor functions on high only
Its the Blower Resistor....If it was the switch, it probably wouldn't work at all....But the Resistor will give you those symptoms, of working on high med or low
SOURCE: car overheating, blows cold air out vents, changed
A couple of things to check because as you describe your symptoms you actually have 2 problems
1. No heat from vents.
Sounds like the heater water flow valve cable is kinked disconnected or the valve itself is stuck You will need to follow your heater core water supply lines to find the valve usually to the right of the center console in the ducting area / large plastic housing for heater and AC internal coils. If the valve works then there is a possibility that the heater core water supply lines have been bypassed on the engine side of the firewall with a coupling due to a leaking heater core. And l;astly the heater core could just be clogged. (quite rare!!)
As for the overheating engine after all of the work you have done.. Perform this simple test.
1. remove radiator cap
2. have someone else start the car
3. watch for water coming out of the open radiator cap area DURING start...
4. have person in the car rev engine gently 2 or 3 times. No need to exceed 2000 RPM. If water rapidly flows out of the radiator during engine revs.. you have some major engine issues.
If it passes all of these checks then the only thing left is improper hose connections on the engine side of the firewall and or a hydraulic water lock in the block that should clear itself by starting and stopping the engine many times with the radiator cap off.
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