Question about 1998 Lincoln Town Car
Pluged in the obd, was a system too rich, oxygen sensor and cylinder 1 misfire faults. Changed both front oxygen sensors, ran okay for a day, then same again (as i've said it runs or dies depending on the mood). Looked again on obd, no faults. Looked at what i could and changed what i could, coils, plugs, fuel filter, restored the fuel pump, iac, maf, egr, throttle, all wires seem okay, nothing different or out of place, all the hoses and vacuums as well. I'm out of ideas and out of my mind right now, anyone got any more ideas? Would appreciate it and thank you so much in advance.
Both answers are great ones and Robert and Rick have got you covered here but I have to get in on the action all this being said I want you to disconnect the battery cable and clean there connections on either side including the engine ground ok next with nompower from the battery I want you to pull out each fuse 1 by 1 and clean the blades and then slightly bend them in oposite directions to make them fit tight in there spaces next clean the power distribution box cable and lug and make sure it is clean and tight when you put back the cable before you put the battery cables on unbolt the power disribution box from the inner fender and turn it over looking for oxidation and corrosion on the metal strip that connects to all the fuses and relays ok now the reason for this is because your engine is powered by gas but controlled by electrical sensors and if something is inhibiting the proper amount of voltage to reach the entire system then what does get through is now rationed out to feed the entire systems requirements and this will cause the PCM/ECM TO GET LOWER THAN NORMAL VOLTAGE REPORTS FROM THE SENSORS AND CAUSE PROBLEMS THIS INCLUDES THE CONNECTORS FOR THEM AND YOU HAVE 4 O2'S IN THIS VEHICLE AND YOU WERE GETTING A #1 MISFIRE DID YOU INSPECT THE BOOTS FOR SOFTNESS OR CRACKING AND WAS THERE MOISTURE IN THE CHAMBER FOR THE PLUG NEXT POST FOR MORE
Posted on Nov 08, 2019
An injector or injectors may be intermittently sticking open flooding the engine . Fuel pressure regulator with a leaky diaphragm flooding through the vacuum line .
Posted on Nov 07, 2019
Now that you've spent way more on parts than a shop diagnostic would have cost, maybe you should either get it professionally diagnosed or attempt to fix the real problem the the trouble code indicated. --system too rich. You thought the O2 sensors were lying. But from your symptoms, my bet is they were perfectly fine and you really do have a rich issue. Click on the link below and scroll down to troubleshooting a rich O2 sensor code
Posted on Nov 07, 2019
Testimonial: "Hello, I forgot to mention that I did have professional diagnostics done, a professional has changed both of them just in case, afterwards the same thing occured in a day, no faults detected whatsoever. That's what's interesting, and i've changed the parts and tested anything i could, because that was it - no faults on the diagnostics."
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same problem with My 1990 F150 300 6cylinder 4x4.....I cahnged all the same things you did, finally I sprayed a can of Gumout through the throttle body and it worked and ran great. Now I add fuel injector cleaner to the gas and a regular clean with the gumout and the problem has'nt come back. Good Luck to you and hope it works!
Posted on Oct 06, 2008
Check your fuel pressure, and or injectors. You may have too much fuel getting into the engine causing it to burn rich and overheat the converters.
Posted on Apr 26, 2009
it sounds like you have a injector leaking down into one of your cylinders so it is flooding out a cylinder thus runs rough and long cranks.
Posted on Jun 16, 2009
well the egr could be stuck open acting like a vacum leak,,,and causing the car to stall,,,you need a new egr,,,,check the wires and if any vacum hoses that go to it,to make sure they are good and connected first,if so replace the egr,,,,it could be false dtc for MAF sensor,,,
Posted on Oct 14, 2009
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