I have a 1997 Peugeot Boxer 270 SWB and the heater blower works on high speed only but doesn't work on lower speeds

does the fan work on high.
yes, then the heater resistor block is burned up. replace that
or look at it to see if the coil there are burned up and gone.
please post systems first, then your guess.
the FSM covers all this, step by step, take apart dash. under
HVAC chapter,.
alldata.com log in and its there.
factory service manual.
removing the control is tricky on all cable cars.
you must get the cables loose before the panel can move out.
the cables all clamped down or they will be dead. (all cars with cables drive)
please post of HIGH speed blower works on high first.
why do this the hard way, at the worst we can use a voltmeter
and prove what is dead, first.

see those rules on cables in the FSM below?
ill not post the panel Remove

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the heater control unit from the instrument panel.
3. Remove the mode and temperature control cables at the heater case. Remove the cables from the vehicle.
4. Remove the fresh/recirculate control cable at blower case and remove from vehicle.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal.
6. Adjust the cables prior to attaching at heater control unit.

now lets look at the blower, dead, on all speeds but HIGH , i bet.
?????????????????
this is your cave man simple blower
so if FUSE marked HTR is good, and 12vdc is on both sides of
fuse keyon, then it is good,. and 12vdc lands on motor top
where below on HIGH the blower and switch works on high.
if say the right side resistor blows up, (as all do)
then all lower speed fail. and DC power fails to reach the fan motor.
how is that? clear>?

Pull the heater control panel out of the dash and inspect the blower speed control switch, look for signs of a burnt connector to the switch, it will be discolored looking, if this is the case replace the switch and install a repair connector

I would replace the blower motor resistor first then see if that corrects this. The resistor is located next to the blower motor under the dash.

If you mean that the Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) does not work when the blower motor does not work, then YES it COULD be an ignition switch problem. However, not very likely (please read on). The regular HIGH and LOW beam headlamps do not require the ignition switch to operate.

The main circuit that runs your regular headlamps also runs the blower motor HIGH speed. This has nothing to do with the ignition switch.
This circuit also operates the Power Mirror circuits and the Hazzard Flashers. You may want to check to see if these are also malfunctioning when this happens.

The Circuits for your other blower speeds go through the ignition switch along with the DRL control module, but your HIGH speed does not. So if it is your ignition switch, your HIGH speed should still work and your regular headlamps should still work. You will lose only your lower blower speeds and DRL if it is an ignition switch problem. You will have a bunch of other stuff going out if it is an ignition switch also. The ignition switch circuit that runs your DRL module also runs your Powertrain Control Module. So if it is an ignition switch problem causing your DRL to shut down, your engine will also be shutting down.

Replace fan blower switch. good luck.

check fuses, then wiggle speed control while moving, may need new dash control for lower speed, usually high speed works through relay may be the reason high speed works

Hi!!
The Blower Motor Resistor also called Manual Temp. Control resistor), is fried, replace. The price with floor console $25 and without floor console $65. here is a pic.


the resistor is located on the blower motor housing, fastened by two screws. It is the part where the electrical plug connects, the plug on the pic. goes to the blower motor.
A HELPFUL - 4 THUMBS rating for this solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for using FixYa.

The resistors provide resistance in the circuit, dropping voltage to the blower motor to slow the motor speed down. On high, the blower receives full voltage through the blower relay.

If you had High but no other speeds, then the resistor pack is usually the culprit. If you have all other speeds but high, the most common problem is going to be the blower motor itself, relay, or the switch panel.

You can check this by turning the fan speed to "high", unplug the blower motor, and check to see that you have roughly at least 12v at the plug. If you have 12v, that means the switch panel is activating the relay and the relay is working. Over time, heat kills the magnetic properties of the magnets inside an electrical motor. Without enough magnetic energy, you may not get enough opposing force to spin the rotor full speed when the windings energize, but still enough to spin at lower speeds.

Another thing you can check is the connector at the blower motor and the switch panel. Sometimes these will heat up, start to deform, and cause a bad connection. The bad connection may be able to handle the lower current draw on low speeds, but the higher resistance from the bad connection won't be able to handle the higher current while in the full speed position.

Hope this helps, keep me posted. be glad to help you get your heater working again soon.

i agree with solution 1. i see it all the time